DIY walbro 255 fuel pump install with pics (alot) - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010, 08:27 PM
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Great write-up, I will be doing this in the next couple days. +rep
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 11:07 PM
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Very helpful info thanks a lot!
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-07-2011, 08:51 AM
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Anyone else have a problem with their Walbro not connecting properly? I've had nothing but problems since I installed my 255 lph. It sputtered, and had inconsistent fuel pressure at idle and low RPMs. I yanked the unit back out only to find that the top of the fuel pump was leaking (where it meets the sending unit) and allowing fuel pressure drop... causing massive headaches with sputtering. So I replaced all of the o-rings, and made sure the pump was seated right. After I re-installed, it ran great for the initial startup, but went right back to sputtering from there. I put the Walbro on the shelf, put the stock FP back in and it runs great again.

Now my stock FP went bad... so I'm faced with this whole dilemma again.

My question related to this post is: Did you install the Walbro pump exactly how the stock pump was installed, or did you use the supplied hose and hose clamps?
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-11-2011, 01:33 PM
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Likely going to have to do this in the next few days to replace my fuel pump. Couple questions.

1. Do you run the car bone dry of gas first until it actually dies or just until gas light comes on?
2. Any tips for when this is all reinstalled and after putting some gas in the car to restart it? Or is it as simple as reconnecting battery and starting car normally?
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by KeithLD50 View Post
Likely going to have to do this in the next few days to replace my fuel pump. Couple questions.

1. Do you run the car bone dry of gas first until it actually dies or just until gas light comes on?
2. Any tips for when this is all reinstalled and after putting some gas in the car to restart it? Or is it as simple as reconnecting battery and starting car normally?
i did not run my car dry, but it is safest too

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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 03:43 PM
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if i buy the kit do i have to solder wires still or no?
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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 12:36 PM
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hi i am a new here, I just completed a 1jz vvti swap on my IS(actually its an altezza). I did the fuel return and followed all the instructions i got from right here on the forum. The thing is that the car starts and idles fine but the gas warning light keeps blinking. The cluster shows half tank which is about right but the light keeps flashing. When the car is started everything is fine but within a couple of minutes it happens. Any ideas of what might be causing this? Yes i bypassed the FPR and blocked it off.

Last edited by Chancy1jz; 08-15-2012 at 03:07 PM.
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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 06:32 AM
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if i buy the kit do i have to solder wires still or no?
YES

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chancy1jz View Post
hi i am a new here, I just completed a 1jz vvti swap on my IS(actually its an altezza). I did the fuel return and followed all the instructions i got from right here on the forum. The thing is that the car starts and idles fine but the gas warning light keeps blinking. The cluster shows half tank which is about right but the light keeps flashing. When the car is started everything is fine but within a couple of minutes it happens. Any ideas of what might be causing this? Yes i bypassed the FPR and blocked it off.
It could be a bunch of things .....

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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-26-2013, 01:33 PM
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Hey all. I have recently had the problem where my car bogged down and shut off when I put it in reverse. For those of you who had this problem, get yourself a new fuel pump and follow this awesome DIY tutorial and get er done. I followed this guide step by step and it actually wasnt difficult at all. I had a full tank of gas when i did it aswell. I removed the fuel pump unit and did the install away from the vehicle in a ventalated area. Also the fuel pump kit comes with rubber hoses and other accesories that arent needed. All you really need is the O-Ring, Spacer, Cap, off the original and then soder the new wires to the original/. Blue to Red. Black to Black.


Thanks for the Post this helped and I am greatful. Saved myself some BIG money.
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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 10:12 PM
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A shop here in town was telling that if you do this mod you will go empty at half a tank because of the tank having a hump in the middle and not allowing the fuel to transfer to the other side fast enough
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-25-2015, 07:06 AM
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A shop here in town was telling that if you do this mod you will go empty at half a tank because of the tank having a hump in the middle and not allowing the fuel to transfer to the other side fast enough
I have a Sard jet pump killer and it works

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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-25-2015, 07:27 AM
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So I will need the sard or the drop in wal bro will be fine


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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 03:13 PM
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Anyone have updated photos?

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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 02:21 PM
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All the pictures are not working. Can anyone fix this??
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 12:13 PM
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All the pictures are not working. Can anyone fix this??
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Anyone have updated photos?
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