DIY: Removal of engine and transmission - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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DIY: Removal of engine and transmission

Lot of good information on this forum that was very helpful to me, figured I would contribute back.

I will try to keep things simple, and most of the steps I wrote without pictures are because there already is a DIY for that step or its pretty self explanatory.

You can mark whatever you take off with tape and numbers so you know what goes where.


Be careful when working under or around a jacked car, never work under a jack, and always support your car with jack stands. I usually put a couple extra jack stands next to the ones supporting the car on one notch lower in case anything does happen. I AM NOT RESPOSIBLE IF YOU HURT/KILL YOURSELF. BE CAREFUL AND HAVE A FRIEND HELP YOU!


Okay lets get to it


Before you start go get your A/C discharged


Step 1: Disconnect battery
Step 2: Disconnect shifter assembly. (Best to do this now while you are not dirty.)

Step 2a:Turn shift nob to take of from shift assembly
Step 2b:Gently pull up on shift boot and trim will pop up with 3 Connectors still attached. (Disconnect and put to the side)

Step 2c: Unscrew 4 holding screws and remove rubber and metal pieces to gain access to shifter.

Step 2d: Pull up on small rubber piece to gain access to the 4 screws, unscrew and pull up on shifter to take out.


Step 3: Disconnect intake
Step 4: Remove front bumper
Step 5: Remove crash bar

Step 6: Remove everything circled in green. hood latch (Also a screwing hiding behind the latch not seen in picture), horn, condenser, A/C lines, front radiator support, power steering line. (Might have to zoom in to see.)

Step 7: Drain and remove radiator, pull out condenser. and move everything else to the side.

We are here:

Step 8: Lets remove everything from the passenger side first.

Step 8a: Disconnect (3) O2 sensors (Might wanna tape up or somehow protect the one in the rear as you pull the exhaust mainfold/header up to get the engine out you dont wanna damage the wires!)
Step 8b: Disconnect this thing that attaches to the intake.

Step 8c: Disconnect bolt holding cable to fuse thing by battery.

Step 8d: Unbolt (+) battery cable and removes clips from the firewall.

Step 8e: Remove ground cable by passenger engine mount.

Step 8f: Remove throttle cable.

Step 8g: Remove heater hoses and ground.(Be very careful as the inlet is aluminum and bends easily!)

Step 8h:Unbolt the header or exhaust manifold.
Step 8i: Double check everything and make sure nothing is still connected to the engine on the passenger side.

Step 9: Onto the driver side.

Step 9a: Disconnect ignition connector.

Step 9b: Open ECU box by the 3 screws on top and disconnect necessary cables from the ecu to separate the 2. After close box and put screws back.

Step 9c: Disconnect 2 hoses one for the EVAP and one going to brake booster.

Step 9d: Disconnect A/C line.

Step 9e: Disconnect (2) A/C lines from compressor.

Step 9f: Disconnect Power steering hose, and bolt. (You will have to hold the fitting with a wrench while you unbolt or it will just spin.

Step 9g: Unbolt PS line from intake manifold.

Step 9h: Double check everything and make sure nothing is still connected to the engine on the driver side.

Step 10: Now for underneath.

Step 10a: Unbolt Slave cylinder, exhaust hanger onto transmission, ground, and fuel line(You can also follow the fuel line up and just unbolt it from above.) All right next to each other.


Step 10b: Mark and take out drive shaft. (4 bolts at the differential and 2 bolts at the U-hanger, then it just pulls out.)



Only things left now is the transmission mount and 2 engine mounts, but before we do any of that we wanna get or hoist in postion and chain it to the engine.

Put the chain on the back engine hook and bolt the other side to the threaded hole right by the front of the header/exhaust manifold. You will see two holes, one is threaded, this is the one you want. (Why is there nothing there because this is actually where the other engine hook is supposed to be and can be found on GTE engines but for some reason the GE engines dont come with them.) You can also run a second strap around the motor in cause the bolt breaks like I did, just as a safety precaution.


Now you can unbolt the engine mounts from underneath, 2 nuts on each side. Then you can unbolt the transmission mount. (Be careful as the transmission will fall unless you put a jack underneath to support it!)


Dont forget to move the header to side before you pull it out and make sure nothing is still attached. You can use a jack to support the transmission to bring it out evenly or help you maneuver it as I did.





Now just put in the GTE, just kidding unless that is why you pulled out the engine lol (Actually is my motor and will eventually go into the car, just not right now, hopefully will do another write up on how to install a GTE if this one is positively received.)

Last edited by theniz; 05-22-2012 at 11:35 PM. Reason: Updates
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 02:13 PM
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Good job, I pulled mine out on my own too. These things are cake to work on.

I'm very interested to see the GTE write up!
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 04:49 PM
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Good write up....heres some proof that you CAN pull engine with trans ,by yourself and not remove front supports and bumper ....




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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 04:53 PM
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 10:30 PM
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nice one! you gotta do one for the 2jzgte!
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 10:47 PM
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Very nice tutorial, it will be very helpful! I'm pretty sure Bezik777 can put it back together in half an hour and have in running with some shortcuts lol. Good job on the write up

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bezik777 View Post
Good write up....heres some proof that you CAN pull engine with trans ,by yourself and not remove front supports and bumper ....
I see what you did there Bezik777 just unbolt your hood huh lol
That's pretty cool though, was it a pain getting back in?
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-08-2012, 03:28 AM
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Definitely saving this for future reference nice write up! +rep

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-06-2012, 01:17 AM
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Awesome write up. This is a very detail document that will help me and others pulling their motors out to do a motor swap.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-11-2013, 09:55 PM
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Great write up, just pulled my motor

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 04:01 AM
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Nice detailed write up man. A good reference.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 11:37 AM
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very nice write up +rep

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bezik777 View Post
Good write up....heres some proof that you CAN pull engine with trans ,by yourself and not remove front supports and bumper ....
Nice . Next you will prob show how to do it with one hand tied behind your back lol :p


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2002 IS300 auto CW
SRT intake w R-ECU / XLE Throttle Body DBW to DBC kit / Xerd ypipe moded / Tanabe Racer Super Medallion muffler / Swift Springs / Tokico Illumina shocks / wheels: Kosei 17x8 +45 / Custom Ground kit / StopTech SS Brake Lines

Project Completed - Throttle Body DBW to slave DBC conversion
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-12-2013, 12:06 PM
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so basically is it that easy to do a gte swap??? everything just plugs back in???? no ecu change??? i am a big time newb at this so have patience
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-11-2013, 02:32 PM
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Do you have to pull the transmission out with it? If I can leave the tranny in, where do I unbolt it to just pull the engine out? A picture(s) of the bolts to remove would be greatly appreciated.
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