DIY/Guide - Door Actuator Motor - Page 8 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #106 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-14-2014, 06:23 PM
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door lock actuator motor part #

QUOTE jasonm4 The 2001/2002 models IIRC don't have the auto door locks, mine doesn't either. It's just a feature added in later years due to an updated body control module. As for the motor swap, I believe they are all the same except for the assembly configuration. If you just replace the motor make sure to expoxy the assembly together. You can also buy just the motor off eBay extremely cheap. I believe the correct motor is made by Mabuchi and is part no. FC-280PC-22125.


As others have quoted, the part number FC-280PC-22125 works but the shaft needs to be lightly filed to fit,theres also a small nub at the other end of the motor but this doesn't matter b/c it still fits without modifying it. I know first hand I ordered two for about $16.00 shipped to canada, the only part I can see failing on the actuator is the motor, there is a screw drive shaft and other plastic pieces that shouldn't break unless taken apart. the new motor is working fine for since I installed about 6months ago. I have a 03' 5spd lsd without auto locks.


IMPORTANT Toyota has just settled in a class action lawsuit for "unintended acceleration" recall and all IS300's are in it I believe. Many people or eligible for a brake override system to be installed at no charge, other cars were the "BOS" can't be installed you can claim $62.50 and have parts like your electronic throttle control systems warrantied for several years after the expiration of the original warranty. check it out. some food for thought.
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post #107 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-14-2014, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btf1723 View Post
QUOTE jasonm4 The 2001/2002 models IIRC don't have the auto door locks, mine doesn't either. It's just a feature added in later years due to an updated body control module. As for the motor swap, I believe they are all the same except for the assembly configuration. If you just replace the motor make sure to expoxy the assembly together. You can also buy just the motor off eBay extremely cheap. I believe the correct motor is made by Mabuchi and is part no. FC-280PC-22125.


As others have quoted, the part number FC-280PC-22125 works but the shaft needs to be lightly filed to fit,theres also a small nub at the other end of the motor but this doesn't matter b/c it still fits without modifying it. I know first hand I ordered two for about $16.00 shipped to canada, the only part I can see failing on the actuator is the motor, there is a screw drive shaft and other plastic pieces that shouldn't break unless taken apart. the new motor is working fine for since I installed about 6months ago. I have a 03' 5spd lsd without auto locks.


IMPORTANT Toyota has just settled in a class action lawsuit for "unintended acceleration" recall and all IS300's are in it I believe. Many people or eligible for a brake override system to be installed at no charge, other cars were the "BOS" can't be installed you can claim $62.50 and have parts like your electronic throttle control systems warrantied for several years after the expiration of the original warranty. check it out. some food for thought.
isnt the motor overpowered so it locks hard or something? I don't regret just buying the new actuator since it saved me time in getting the new motor to work and all that since im kind of busy right now. If any of my other doors go bad I might just buy the aftermarket motor.
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post #108 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 08:02 PM
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isnt the motor overpowered so it locks hard or something? I don't regret just buying the new actuator since it saved me time in getting the new motor to work and all that since im kind of busy right now. If any of my other doors go bad I might just buy the aftermarket motor.
So far so good, It doesn't seem any stronger than before, nothing noticable anyways. its only been a few months so time will tell.
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post #109 of 142 (permalink) Old 05-17-2014, 07:01 PM
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I just replaced mine and it still doesn't unlock with the key/button. Is there a separate power source maybe? I got the one off amazon and ground down the shaft to get it to fit. Everything went back together smooth but it still doesn't work.

Any ideas?
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post #110 of 142 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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if you have a multimeter - i would start by confirming that the actuator is getting power/signal when you press on the key FOB.

what happens when you press the lock/unlock button the driver side door? anything happen? if it does - are you sure you dont have a dead battery in the FOB?

for me - i was still able to hear the motor struggle when i used the key FOB - so i knew that it was the motor.
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post #111 of 142 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 03:30 PM
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It all of a sudden started working today. However, I cannot move the lock by hand or with a key. only with the button or fob. I guess it is too tight and I will need to pull it out again to adjust it...
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post #112 of 142 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 04:38 PM
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So two months after I posted how great my new driver door lock motor when in without a hitch I'm posting today that it's probably too powerfull as other have suggested. it makes a very loud knock when unlocking but not when locking the car?!?(broken piece?) the part number I used was Mabuchi and is part no. FC-280PC-22125. just be forwarned and I'll update soon
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post #113 of 142 (permalink) Old 05-26-2014, 10:13 AM
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Yeah, that happened to me too. Loud, too powerful, and over time it started to loosen the clamp shell and the actuator would go nuts (as the leaf springs is losing contact with the circuit). For me it wasn't worth the time and hassle of doing this multiple times to save some money. I am very happy with my oem actuator.

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post #114 of 142 (permalink) Old 08-19-2014, 10:33 AM
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i used this post to fix my door actuator and it works great now, except one little thing.. it's sort of like everyone is saying where it won't unlock by hand without a little force, except with mine even with force the lock won't open sometimes.. but it's only sometimes. it usually works great but every couple times you try to unlock it it won't work. i just press lock and unlock button on the door a couple times and then it usually opens, but it obviously shouldn't be doing that. did anybody else have this problem, and how was it fixed? thank you!
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post #115 of 142 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 08:28 PM
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Hey guys - I'm back temporarily. My IS300 is long gone. But I fixed 2 busted motors on my buddy's IS300. I'm pretty much an expert on the door mechanisms now. The driver's door is very time consuming to do. I find it's easier to remove the outer door handle to unclip the rods, but removing the door handles does require window removal on the driver's side not on the passenger side. Removing the window could mess up your pinch protection settings so be very careful.

I bought the round shaft mabuchi motors on ebay. They work fine so far (1 month of daily driving) Unfortunately you cannot mix the white end caps with the original motors to do the repair (like I posted years ago) So you must replace the whole motor. I grinded down the shaft with a dremel to make it flat.

I used hot glue to seal the motor casing. You could reinforce it with zip ties if you want peace of mind. Also I suggest "testing" the motor in half the housing to make sure it works. Then assembling it (without glue) and test again. Then glue for final assembly and test again. Will save you some heart aches. I did have to grind down the opposite end of the motor shaft slightly for more clearance. It can be a bit long.

Hope this updated information helps you.
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post #116 of 142 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 09:15 PM
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Sorry to bump an old thread but...


I did the repair on my passenger door and everything was fine for about a year, cut to about 3 weeks ago and the door goes dead again. Using the key it won't unlock completely, it moves a little bit but not enough to full unlock. The odd part is once in the car and I manually push the lock back to open the door, I can then use the button on my switch and it locks fine.

Listen to it while it locks the motor sounds the same, strong and new. Has anyone else had this issue?
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post #117 of 142 (permalink) Old 09-08-2014, 10:33 PM
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I bought these a couple of weeks ago, and they all are reverse rotation. I.e. when I hit lock, the driver side door locks, and vice versa. Any insight on how to fix this?
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post #118 of 142 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by a420a240 View Post
I bought these a couple of weeks ago, and they all are reverse rotation. I.e. when I hit lock, the driver side door locks, and vice versa. Any insight on how to fix this?
I assume you meant that when you hit LOCK the driver side door UNLOCKS - right??

its been a few years since i did this - do i dont recall what all the parts look like inside.

but can the terminals going to the motor be swapped?

Easiest Way To Reverse Electric Motor Directions - Robot Room

see first diagram under "Testing Parts" - swapping terminal leads going to the motor will reverse direction
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post #119 of 142 (permalink) Old 01-25-2015, 05:38 PM
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Thanks for the write up! I just finished replacing the motor on my drivers door without a hitch. I ordered this motor from eBay. Direct replacement from the original one. In the edit option select flat shaft standard length

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...112752&alt=web
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post #120 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-06-2015, 03:17 PM
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Does anybody know if a Toyota dealership would have an equivalent part for the actuator itself? The Lexus dealer is a bit of a drive from me.
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