DIY/Guide - Door Actuator Motor - Page 7 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #91 of 143 (permalink) Old 05-01-2013, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnysks View Post
The first one ripped the housing a part, and the actuator would go nuts (because the resistance would change). The second one sounds like the motor broke. I too ended up buying two actuator.
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Originally Posted by bmxrush View Post
Dang.. So much for a DIY. I guess we're all better off buying new oem actuators

ekks sorry you guys are having so much trouble with it. its been nearly three years and no issues so far (fingers crossed).

i did notice a noise after i was done and suspected it was because i didn't have a good seal of the housing. i didn't have any glue around so i took two or three zip ties and strapped the housing closed.

Getting a whole new actuator would probably be ideal since its a removal and replacement activity. But getting a motor is economical for some and in theory you are putting in a "new" motor and not a potentially used actuator that may have the same issues as the original ones.

I apologize for any trouble that this guide may have caused you.
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post #92 of 143 (permalink) Old 05-02-2013, 10:35 AM
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I rebuilt mine with the new motor and super glued the casing together. Everything seems to work great.
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post #93 of 143 (permalink) Old 05-02-2013, 10:54 AM
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No the DIY is great. My new motor I purchased seemed to have too much torque. When I unlocked the door it was really aggressive lol and two weeks later it broke something inside.

Maybe it I got a more powerful version of those motors idk.

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post #94 of 143 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bmxrush View Post
No the DIY is great. My new motor I purchased seemed to have too much torque. When I unlocked the door it was really aggressive lol and two weeks later it broke something inside.

Maybe it I got a more powerful version of those motors idk.
Same issue here. After I put the new motor in, the door lock was slamming open and shut much harder than ever before. A few months later the cranking/rattling noise started on unlocks. Now I'm spending the extra $ on a complete replacement actuator just to know I only have to bust my knuckles in that door cavity one more time rather than keep fiddling with the repaired one.

More power to ya if you can get the cheap fix to work, it's well worth a shot. My shot just didn't last.
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post #95 of 143 (permalink) Old 08-06-2013, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by chunktwo View Post
ekks sorry you guys are having so much trouble with it. its been nearly three years and no issues so far (fingers crossed).

i did notice a noise after i was done and suspected it was because i didn't have a good seal of the housing. i didn't have any glue around so i took two or three zip ties and strapped the housing closed.

Getting a whole new actuator would probably be ideal since its a removal and replacement activity. But getting a motor is economical for some and in theory you are putting in a "new" motor and not a potentially used actuator that may have the same issues as the original ones.

I apologize for any trouble that this guide may have caused you.
Oh no, don't get us wrong. Your guide has been super helpful! It's not your fault as the ebay vendors ran out of the correct motor, and has been selling another motor that is just a bit too strong (without telling the end user).

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post #96 of 143 (permalink) Old 11-25-2013, 10:33 PM
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great!
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post #97 of 143 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 11:50 PM
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So nobody knows for sure which one our car needs to work correctly?
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post #98 of 143 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 04:54 AM
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So nobody knows for sure which one our car needs to work correctly?
I believe the OE ones from the dealer are fine but the aftermarket ones such as the ones on eBay, Rockauto, etc(OES) are much stronger and is recommended to epoxy/zip tye the housing.
Like this one, a more powerful one..2002 LEXUS IS300 Door Lock Actuator
Johnny, is that correct?

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post #99 of 143 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 03:11 PM
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Hi Jason. The link you posted is for the actuator. AFAIK last time I checked ebay no one was selling the correct motor (the PN was slightly different).

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post #100 of 143 (permalink) Old 11-27-2013, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnnysks View Post
Hi Jason. The link you posted is for the actuator. AFAIK last time I checked ebay no one was selling the correct motor (the PN was slightly different).
Hey Johnny, thanks for your clarification. I knew you would know better than me as I recall you had to do swap a replacement. Your input is always appreciated!

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post #101 of 143 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014, 08:37 PM
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Could i just buy a door actuator off of any one of the doors of the is300 and just take that motor out and put that into my driver front door? Or does each door on the is300 have a different sized motor with flat shaft? It seems each door lock assembly for each door is different but the motor inside is the same right? It's funny that in my 2002 is300 the doors dont lock when you put the car into drive. My 2005 locks when put into drive but i never lock my car anywhere i go including my driveway and at work. If this was my 2002 id still have new motors from never locking it.

Last edited by mumathew; 04-08-2014 at 09:28 PM.
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post #102 of 143 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 08:56 AM
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Could i just buy a door actuator off of any one of the doors of the is300 and just take that motor out and put that into my driver front door? Or does each door on the is300 have a different sized motor with flat shaft? It seems each door lock assembly for each door is different but the motor inside is the same right? It's funny that in my 2002 is300 the doors dont lock when you put the car into drive. My 2005 locks when put into drive but i never lock my car anywhere i go including my driveway and at work. If this was my 2002 id still have new motors from never locking it.
The 2001/2002 models IIRC don't have the auto door locks, mine doesn't either. It's just a feature added in later years due to an updated body control module. As for the motor swap, I believe they are all the same except for the assembly configuration. If you just replace the motor make sure to expoxy the assembly together. You can also buy just the motor off eBay extremely cheap. I believe the correct motor is made by Mabuchi and is part no. FC-280PC-22125.
Lexus Door Lock Actuator Motor | eBay

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post #103 of 143 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 10:31 PM
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I couldn't figure out if what people were doing was working and what the parts numbers really are or if they just dont exist. I ended up buying a brand new actuator from lexus. $119 but I replaced it in 30mins and my key buttons now work again on the drivers door. Once you do it once it becomes much easier. The first try I was nervous about breaking something and forgot a screw and had to take it back off.
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post #104 of 143 (permalink) Old 04-13-2014, 05:38 AM
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Well at least it works now, that's all that matters. But I do believe members have just changed the motor and the PN of the motor I gave for the Mabuchi replacement seems to be the one folks use to swap out with. That would suck to pay $120 because a $7 motor went bad(if that's the real problem), but I realize you have to crack open the unit and then reseal it good as the replacement motors seem to be more robust as johnny would call it.
Good job on the fix!

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post #105 of 143 (permalink) Old 04-13-2014, 11:52 AM
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If it was an exact motor that was for sale that worked exactly like factory I would probably just have tried to replace the motor only. Seems like people were breaking parts with the speed of the motor and it had a round shafts instead of flat so it obviously isnt the right motor.
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