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post #76 of 142 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by joeycchendds
I'm thinking the next step is to just drill through the sucker... That's the only thing I can think of...
No i wouldn't see a need to drill a hole, something along the steps of the install isn't right and I've been following this thread and still can't put my finger on the answer. Worst case, pop off the passenger side door panel because it's basically the same but from a different angle. Good luck, Johnny's been a big help here, must spread before....I'm sorry i wish i had something better to help.

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post #77 of 142 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 07:25 PM
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Ok so I attached a picture of the mechanism..and I have a feeling that the metal part that I circled in red has something to do with releasing the latch?? The thing has a little play side to side and up and down...but I'm not sure if I have to use a tool to move it to the right?
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post #78 of 142 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 10:56 AM
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That black piece behind all the metal is what houses that darn contraption that is stuck over the striker... ugh... I'm leaning toward drilling out the sucker... unless anyone else can come up with something???
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post #79 of 142 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 03:34 PM
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This is going to sound like a pain, and Jason may have already mentioned this, have you considering looking at the driver door to see what it is suppose to look like? It will probably take an hour, but at the same time you may have your answer in an hour. And this time, do take pix of how things fit together before you take them apart?

PS. Keep in mind the driver side has an extra rod that connects the external door lock.

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post #80 of 142 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 12:13 PM
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Thanks for all your help guys! My wrists and body were starting to bother me too much and I had to give up. I've decided to let the body shop professionals take care of it. They only charge me $50 to work on it , if they open it. I think it's worth it.

I'll keep you all posted on the car...Thanks!
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post #81 of 142 (permalink) Old 11-29-2012, 10:05 PM
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$50! Should have sent it to them a few days ago. For $50 it is not cost effective to fix it yourself! lol

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post #82 of 142 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeycchendds View Post
Ok so I attached a picture of the mechanism..and I have a feeling that the metal part that I circled in red has something to do with releasing the latch?? The thing has a little play side to side and up and down...but I'm not sure if I have to use a tool to move it to the right?
Ok so I bougth the replacement part and studied it extensively.. The part that i circled in this post. It's SUPPOSED to rotate counterclockwise downwards...but is jammed. All other mechanicals are working like they normally do. Just this metal piece that I was suspicious of is just plain stuck. I tried force, jammed a flat head screwdriver into the top of it and pushed up to hopefully torque it. Will not budge... I still have no idea what caused this part to sieze up...
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post #83 of 142 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 05:49 PM
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That's just weird. Glad to hear it's going to work out for you.

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post #84 of 142 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 03:49 PM
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will this work on a 2007 IS250 as well? it was never specified as to what IS this DYI thread was written for. i just had both my passenger front and rear door locks quit working on me within the past 2 months. i'm a member on clublexus, but the only thing i found on there was that the dealer will charge about $500 to replace one! definitely not looking to spend a g on 2 door locks. thanks in advance.
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post #85 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-18-2013, 12:27 PM
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I think that I am going to need to do this on my driver's door soon. My remote doesn't work sometimes to unlock the driver's door. It seems to not work when the car has been sitting in the sun. When the car cools down it works fine. The remote works for the other three doors all the time.

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post #86 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 11:13 PM
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I just finished this 3 weeks ago and it worked great till the last 2 days. When I unlock it opens but it's making a scary noise. I just bought a whole new motor casing.

Word of advice, be really careful on putting this back together, lots of small parts.

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post #87 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 10:47 AM
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^^Yeah, that's what I've been saying. These ebay motors are too strong as they're not the correct PN, and they start to separate the plastic clam shell housing when they spin up. I think you have to either glue the clam shell housing together, or just get the entire oem actuator.

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post #88 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnysks View Post
^^Yeah, that's what I've been saying. These ebay motors are too strong as they're not the correct PN, and they start to separate the plastic clam shell housing when they spin up. I think you have to either glue the clam shell housing together, or just get the entire oem actuator.
Yeah I just bought a new oem one. I tore it apart yesterday trying to figure it out but even if I held the case down tightly it still did the noise. My guess is that torquie motor broke something. You had the same problem?

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post #89 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 11:34 AM
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The first one ripped the housing a part, and the actuator would go nuts (because the resistance would change). The second one sounds like the motor broke. I too ended up buying two actuator.

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post #90 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-29-2013, 12:45 PM
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Dang.. So much for a DIY. I guess we're all better off buying new oem actuators

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