DIY/Guide - Door Actuator Motor - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #16 of 143 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 01:06 PM
Lurker
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Thanks for the write up! Both my front actuators are out LOL
04 ricer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #17 of 143 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 03:09 PM
Lurker
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tanasbourne, OR
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Garage
I took a picture of where the motor sits if you would like to add it to your write up.

kelyliddance is offline  
post #18 of 143 (permalink) Old 02-14-2011, 03:28 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Orlando
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Garage
I followed the instructions as noted above and everything went great. I don't have a dremmel so I used the hand file method and it worked fine for me. I just made a small groove in my wood topped workbench and set the shaft on the groove. Then I applied light pressure at first until it started to flatten and then I could start applying more force once I knew the shaft wasn't rotating. The only problem was getting the plastic "cup" that houses the opener handle to fit all the way back into the opening. The front "closer to the front of the car" sits out about a 1/4 inch. Not that noticeable so I'll play with it when I get more time.
barrelled is offline  
 
post #19 of 143 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
Follower
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 576
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrelled View Post
I followed the instructions as noted above and everything went great. I don't have a dremmel so I used the hand file method and it worked fine for me. I just made a small groove in my wood topped workbench and set the shaft on the groove. Then I applied light pressure at first until it started to flatten and then I could start applying more force once I knew the shaft wasn't rotating. The only problem was getting the plastic "cup" that houses the opener handle to fit all the way back into the opening. The front "closer to the front of the car" sits out about a 1/4 inch. Not that noticeable so I'll play with it when I get more time.
if i understand the problem u are talking about... see first post..

"When you put screw back on for the handle assembly, make sure that you position it as far downward as possible, otherwise when you put the trim back on later it will not snap on. I needed to take the door panel off again because the trim didn't have room to snap back on."

the trim i am referring to, i think, you call the plastic "cup" that houses the opener handle
chunktwo is offline  
post #20 of 143 (permalink) Old 03-07-2011, 09:40 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
 
Thanks and here's my followup

Just fixed my bad actuator due to this awesome post.

Here's my input:

Initially, I wasn't sure how to remove the large black cover to remove the final screw. I was worried about breaking the plastic when trying to pry it off the motor body. Just work it slowly, but you should see how it the plastic is "keyed" into the motor body plastic.

Once the cover is off and the final screw is removed: there are 3 items to watch out for during reassembly.

The first obvious part is the cable which slips into a little plastic arm protruding from the actuator body. That's easy.

The other two are adjacent to each other. There's a ball-joint style mechanism (cupped-u that fits into a ball). That's easy to fit together as it has a lot of play.

The final thing is subtle: just a protruded peice of plastic which then fits into a hole in some metal fixture. That locates the two peices; without this mated up properly the ball tends to fall out of the u-cup quite easily.

Once you reassembled those 3 items, you put in a screw to hold them together. Then you can put the cover back on. But the entire assembly will loosely sit on top of each other. Line up the bodies properly so the bottom two screw holes are both center aligned, then drive in the final 2 screws. Now it's complete!

Pull the rods and the cables to test your assembly out. It should feel right.

Now on to the Mabuchi motor. I could not find a motor with a flat shaft on eBay (even though it was reported to be the case) So I wound up just dismantling the old and new motor and swapping the shafts. So old shaft goes into the new body. It worked just fine for me. I suppose you could try swapping the brushes themselves out, but this seemed like an easier approach.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	act0001.JPG
Views:	5386
Size:	137.4 KB
ID:	29664   Click image for larger version

Name:	act0002.JPG
Views:	3374
Size:	141.3 KB
ID:	29665  
Jeff310 is offline  
post #21 of 143 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 02:08 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
 
K
I am about to do this too.

Here's my question,

On ebay i see TWO motors.
One with just a round shaft for .99 cents
NEW / replaces Mabuchi FC 280PC-22125 and FC280PT-22125 - eBay (item 270717876995 end time Mar-16-11 13:11:13 PDT)

and one with a "Collar" on it for 8.90
MABUCHI MOTOR FC-280PT-22125 DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR REPAIR - eBay (item 120686174761 end time Mar-18-11 23:49:58 PDT)

Nobody has really addressed this collar? Do I want the 8 dollar one here, or is that collar going to come off the old motor?

I also read that someone completely swapped the old shaft in place of the new shaft.

Just though I would ask first.
plasma800 is offline  
post #22 of 143 (permalink) Old 03-11-2011, 12:23 AM
Lurker
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tanasbourne, OR
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Garage
^Just get the first one. If you look at the picture I posted (Post #17) There is a worm gear that goes over the shaft. So the other collar would be pointless really, I think. They are both the same price anyway so I don't think it really matters which one you get, so long as the collar is removable.

2003 Black Onyx IS300 | 5SP | LSD | HKS HiPower | Tokico | Eibach
kelyliddance is offline  
post #23 of 143 (permalink) Old 03-11-2011, 12:18 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
 
Go without collar

It's removable (press fit) but why deal with the hassle? Get the motor without.

Just be aware of what posted above

Quote:
Now on to the Mabuchi motor. I could not find a motor with a flat shaft on eBay (even though it was reported to be the case) So I wound up just dismantling the old and new motor and swapping the shafts. So old shaft goes into the new body. It worked just fine for me. I suppose you could try swapping the brushes themselves out, but this seemed like an easier approach.
Jeff310 is offline  
post #24 of 143 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 03:36 PM
Lurker
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 78
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
i got 2 motors of ebay and both came with round shaft. emailed seller he said they do not have it nor anyone else has them (that he knows about). bought a file for $4 and 15 min later (taking my time) it was perfect fit.
it was easier than getting the actuators out of the door. I tried not to mess with it too much, just unscrew and move as little parts possible, put it right back.
things work!
total cost $17 for 2 door locks. (including $4 file
Svirdulys is offline  
post #25 of 143 (permalink) Old 06-16-2011, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
Follower
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 576
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
           
glad this is helping people fix their door locks and saving them money.

i updated my post to remove reference to the motor with the flat-shaft. It appears to be causing trouble/confusion. and it seems like no one has actually found one that works.

it seems using the dremel or hand-file makes the most sense because it has been tested.
chunktwo is offline  
post #26 of 143 (permalink) Old 06-27-2011, 01:27 PM
Lurker
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 63
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Great write up, I had went to the junkyard and grabbed the whole assembly for 13 bucks and slapped it in with the help of this DIY!! THANKS
paulturner911 is offline  
post #27 of 143 (permalink) Old 12-13-2011, 03:06 PM
Lurker
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
good DIY, i just fixed my driver side door after reading this but bent the window rail thing any1 know the part # for it?
dkok11 is offline  
post #28 of 143 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 08:25 AM
Deity
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Quebec
Posts: 11,816
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
           
Just ordered my motor can't wait to get this done.
Jerm__ is offline  
post #29 of 143 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
Follower
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 576
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkok11 View Post
good DIY, i just fixed my driver side door after reading this but bent the window rail thing any1 know the part # for it?
check the sewell lexus part site..

not sure which part you are talking about. if you have a picture of it, it would be helpful
chunktwo is offline  
post #30 of 143 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 02:33 PM
Lurker
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Windsor, California *North Bay*
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff310 View Post
Just fixed my bad actuator due to this awesome post.


Now on to the Mabuchi motor. I could not find a motor with a flat shaft on eBay (even though it was reported to be the case) So I wound up just dismantling the old and new motor and swapping the shafts. So old shaft goes into the new body. It worked just fine for me. I suppose you could try swapping the brushes themselves out, but this seemed like an easier approach.
Was it pretty straight forward swapping out the shafts? How hard was it to do? I just received my new actuator motor for the lock and if i can just swap out the shafts that be a whole lot better for me.
Nor*Cal_IS300 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Lexus IS Forum > Lexus IS > DIY/tutorial forum

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Lexus IS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. If your address is invalid, you will likely lose access to the site.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Current users viewing this Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
01 Power Door Lock Actuator - Replacement Question Chemical25 General Discussion 8 04-21-2013 02:15 PM
Little Actuator Motor in wheel well Tommypace2003 IS300 Owner's Forum 1 12-17-2009 04:04 PM
Drivers door lock - Actuator for sure? rint IS300 Owner's Forum 2 11-20-2009 12:11 AM
Actuator Mode? Servo? Blower Motor? PLEASE HELP! kyosahnim General Discussion 6 12-09-2008 05:01 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome