DIY: Complete Timing Belt+Water Pump+ Seals - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-30-2015, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mm71522 View Post
Yeah the sprocket/timing gear is the one I'm referring to.

Here you can see me pulling it with the M6X1.0 metric screws.

The harmonic balancer came off with the screws provided with the puller.
Ah okay, got it! A little confusion on my end lol.

01 IS300 - MSM - 240k mile high club

Currently in: snow mode

BRZ Differential w/ 4.1 -- K&N FIPK Intake -- CXRacing Coilovers -- IS350 18" Wheels -- Greddy Lip [RIP :(]

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"Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the car"
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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-30-2015, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by therock0720 View Post
Ah okay, got it! A little confusion on my end lol.
Its all good! Are you doing just the seals or complete maintenance?

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 04-30-2015, 07:31 PM
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DIY: Complete Timing Belt+Water Pump+ Seals

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Originally Posted by mm71522 View Post
Its all good! Are you doing just the seals or complete maintenance?

Last timing belt change for me was done at 121k by previous owner and now I'm at 172k and having noise coming from what seems to be the timing area (sounds like one of the tensioners for the timing is going bad). So I'm gonna be doing the following:

Timing belt
Timing Tensioner and Pulley
Water pump (and seals/gaskets)
Thermostat
PCV
Valve cover gaskets
Harmonic balancer
Serpentine belt
Serpentine belt tensioner pulley
Crank and cam seals
VVTi gear gasket
Valve adjustment/shimming if needed
Upper and lower radiator hoses
Power steering flush with inline filter
Trans drain/flush (and possible inline filter too)
Clean throttle body, MAF, and K&N filter

This car is gonna last me another 100k at least, so I'm gonna make sure of it lol. All stuff that will probably fail and I only want to do this job once and not have to dive back in because one thing I didn't do failed.
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01 IS300 - MSM - 240k mile high club

Currently in: snow mode

BRZ Differential w/ 4.1 -- K&N FIPK Intake -- CXRacing Coilovers -- IS350 18" Wheels -- Greddy Lip [RIP :(]

Hotchkis Sways -- OBX Shorty Headers -- Custom Magnaflow Catback

"Gotta work on the nut behind the wheel before you start fixing bolts on the car"

Last edited by therock0720; 04-30-2015 at 07:52 PM.
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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 03:40 PM
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I am about to change my cam seals. Do i need to remove the OCV and OCV filter, I am not planning on removing the exhaust and intake gaskets as I did them last year?

Also my cams are aligned properly, dots are aligned as they should be in the fsm. My VVTI pulley can move freely 30 degrees to the left (counterclockwise) but I can also move it freely to the right (clockwise) about 30 degrees. Is this a problem? Everything is aligned properly before i took the belt off. 60 Degrees BTDC

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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dejan_85 View Post
I am about to change my cam seals. Do i need to remove the OCV and OCV filter, I am not planning on removing the exhaust and intake gaskets as I did them last year?

Also my cams are aligned properly, dots are aligned as they should be in the fsm. My VVTI pulley can move freely 30 degrees to the left (counterclockwise) but I can also move it freely to the right (clockwise) about 30 degrees. Is this a problem? Everything is aligned properly before i took the belt off. 60 Degrees BTDC
No, you don't need to remove any of those things to replace the cam seals. As long as you have a tool to pull/push the seals out/in you should be good.

Hmmm..here's how it works..if the vvti gear is on the timing mark and the dot, you should be able to move it freely 30 degrees counterclockwise, and then you have to move it back, freely, 30 degrees clockwise until the dot aligns with the timing mark again. Once the dot is back on the timing mark there should be resistance instead of free play. After you've done this, if the vvti gear still has play clockwise then its not right. The engine will spin clockwise, so any slack might be dangerous in terms of timing.

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 05:15 PM
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Thanks for the answer. I dont really have to move it counterclockwise 30 degrees do i? Thats just to make sure everything is ok.

Anyways i did everything right, 60 degrees btdc, put it in tdc first then spun the shaft counterclockwise till it line up with 60 deg btdc just like in the fsm. And took the bolt off. So line is with zeros and o on camshaft are in line with marks on the plate.

But yes somehow once i took the belt off the vvti can move freely both to left and right.
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure what you mean lol post a video or a picture

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

My Thread
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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 06:02 PM
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I know i was blabbing on. Anyways this is what i did.

I set the engine to TDC. Which means, the lines on the camshafts line up with marks on the plate behind camshafts, and the TDC line on the crankshaft pulley aligns with zero.
Once I did that I rotated the engine 60 degrees counter-clockwise to the left which made the engine BTDC. Now the "o" on the camshafts are aligned with the marks on the plate behind camshafts, and the BTDC line on the crankshaft pulley aligns with zero.

I did what the FSM told me to do, even though it says never turn the engine counter-clockwise.

This is from the FSM EM-18

"Turn the crankshaft pulley 60 counterclockwise to place
the sub timing mark (60 mark BTDC) on the crankshaft
pulley at the timing mark ”0” position of the No. 1 timing
belt cover"




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Last edited by dejan_85; 07-31-2015 at 06:11 PM.
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 06:16 PM
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Kind of confusing actually

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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Okay lol whether you used the lines or dots, it doesn't matter. What matters is the position of the crank and gears. What I'm trying to say is there should be no play clockwise whenever the dot/line (whichever you used) is on the timing mark.

Like this. You should be able to move the gear freely both ways, but before you slip the belt on, the gear should be timed at your timing mark, with no play clockwise.

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

My Thread

Last edited by mm71522; 07-31-2015 at 07:25 PM.
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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 08:54 PM
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Yes it does that but it also moves clockwise 30 degrees as well.

In the most guides i have seen guys will just rotate the engine clockwise until they get to the first set of marks on the pulley making it 60 degrees BTDC.

But what I did by following the FSM, is turn the engine clockwise to the second set of marks on the crankshaft pulley, making it TDC, and then turning the pulley back or counterclockwise to the first mark, making it 60 degrees BTDC.

This is what is says in the FSM
This is from the FSM EM-18

"Turn the crankshaft pulley 60 counterclockwise to place
the sub timing mark (60 mark BTDC) on the crankshaft
pulley at the timing mark ”0” position of the No. 1 timing
belt cover"

2004 IIP
5spd
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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-28-2015, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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I wanted to add this clip to this DIY.
This is how it should look when using the dots as your timing marks. The belt should slip on with the vvti gear fully clocked clockwise, and dot on the timing mark.


Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

My Thread
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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-28-2015, 04:41 PM
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Good stuff here. Didnt know you had made this. I like
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Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 07:10 PM
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Hello this thread has become very helpful. Thank you! Can you please make your video public. When I click on it, it says that its private. Thanks in advance!!!
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-25-2016, 09:05 AM
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What if the dot is not line up. How do you adjust or make it with the mark on cover.
My is one tooth over clockwise position.
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