DIY Cam Gear Install - Page 3 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #31 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-12-2009, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the all the rep guys and im glad i could help out!

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post #32 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 08:40 AM
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Great write up. Just to add my 2 cents, if you don't have someone to hold the belt in place for you, you can put a clamp on the lip of the cam to hold the belt in place.( make sure to protect the belt from potential damage from the clamp.)

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post #33 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-15-2009, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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yes you can use a little clamp if you need too. you can get away with using a vise-grip to hold the belt for you. you just dont need to clamp the vise-grip on there, just tight enough to hold the belt in place.

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post #34 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-21-2009, 10:06 AM
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I have a question about this install. After you align the cam gears paint to the top of the timing cover, then set the crankshaft's sub timing groove to 0, do you leave the car like this after you put everything back together and crank it up with the crankshaft sub timing groove at zero? If not what needs to be done?
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post #35 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-21-2009, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonard_is300 View Post
I did alot of reading and with our motors -4 yeilds the best results with an intake and exhaust. i have the Brian crower 264 cams and valve train, full exhaust, and intake i have the cam gear set to -4 and im all on the stock tune. slapping this cam gear on and setting it to -4 will be fine on stock tune but if your wanting to get the most out of your NA car and have an SAFC or something like that then a tune would not hurt at all!

A stock IS300 can have a cam gear set to -4 without messing anything up.

when you mean valve train upgrade, what did you change, was it the springs, valves them selves or both

MY IS is Boosted with imagination by Sesame Street Performance (lol)
HKS DLI ignition box, PHR alternator 230amp or 250amp peak idk, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Brain Crower 264 cams, SRT Intake with RaceECU, Fidinza adjustment Cam-gear Exhaust set 0, Mishimoto Engine&Trans radiator+hoses, megan racing y-pipe, OEM FRS 4.10 rear Torsen LSD diff, greddy EVO2 cat-back, SSR type CRS wheels, Tokico Illumina 5-way shocks, Cusco blue swaybars and chassis stiffiners..... Doin that all motor build
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post #36 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 09:01 AM
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I have a question about this install. After you align the cam gears paint to the top of the timing cover, then set the crankshaft's sub timing groove to 0, do you leave the car like this after you put everything back together and crank it up with the crankshaft sub timing groove at zero? If not what needs to be done?

So nobody knows the answer to this?
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post #37 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rtstrider View Post
I have a question about this install. After you align the cam gears paint to the top of the timing cover, then set the crankshaft's sub timing groove to 0, do you leave the car like this after you put everything back together and crank it up with the crankshaft sub timing groove at zero? If not what needs to be done?

So nobody knows the answer to this?
Hmm I'll try to answer this as best as I can for you. When your setting the timing to the marks that are already on your car you paint them with anything thats easy to see. The cam gears have 2 timing marks and so does the crank pully. you need to align everything so that is 20 degrees Before Top Dead Center. If i am wrong on that please someone correct me. There will be a line on the crank pully that will line up to 0 degrees and you use that as your timing mark. to make sure things are at the right timing position use the DOT's on the cam gears and then check the crank shaft. there will be a line on the crank shaft that will line up with 0 on the timing belt cover that will be your timing mark that you need to use.

And yes when i say valvetrain upgrand i mean springs, retainers, and valves. if i wanted i could raise my rev limit to 7300 rpm but i dont see feel the need to do that.

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post #38 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 09:24 AM
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What I'm asking is will I tear up my engine if I crank it up at 20 degrees before tdc?
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post #39 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonard_is300 View Post
Hmm I'll try to answer this as best as I can for you. When your setting the timing to the marks that are already on your car you paint them with anything thats easy to see. The cam gears have 2 timing marks and so does the crank pully. you need to align everything so that is 20 degrees Before Top Dead Center. If i am wrong on that please someone correct me. There will be a line on the crank pully that will line up to 0 degrees and you use that as your timing mark. to make sure things are at the right timing position use the DOT's on the cam gears and then check the crank shaft. there will be a line on the crank shaft that will line up with 0 on the timing belt cover that will be your timing mark that you need to use.

And yes when i say valvetrain upgrand i mean springs, retainers, and valves. if i wanted i could raise my rev limit to 7300 rpm but i dont see feel the need to do that.

did you have to do any machine work to the stock head for thoughs BC valves to work im just asking because im getting the BC stage 2 cames and decides if i should get the BC springs and valves

MY IS is Boosted with imagination by Sesame Street Performance (lol)
HKS DLI ignition box, PHR alternator 230amp or 250amp peak idk, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Brain Crower 264 cams, SRT Intake with RaceECU, Fidinza adjustment Cam-gear Exhaust set 0, Mishimoto Engine&Trans radiator+hoses, megan racing y-pipe, OEM FRS 4.10 rear Torsen LSD diff, greddy EVO2 cat-back, SSR type CRS wheels, Tokico Illumina 5-way shocks, Cusco blue swaybars and chassis stiffiners..... Doin that all motor build
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post #40 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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What I'm asking is will I tear up my engine if I crank it up at 20 degrees before tdc?
well your engine is not timed right yes you will wreck stuff, we have interferance engines so yes it will tear stuff up if its not done right.

and as for valves no you do not need any machine work if you get the standard size valves. but when i had my head off i had the valves, springs and retainers installed at a machine shop just incase it needed anything. i didnt need anything but i did that just incase tho.

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post #41 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
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What I'm asking is will I tear up my engine if I crank it up at 20 degrees before tdc?
If you engine timing is set right it doesn't matter where you crank it from initially.

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post #42 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 03:22 PM
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Well I just chickened out and took it to a shop instead.
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post #43 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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its not bad if you dont do it, it is something that needs to be done right cause if its not your pistons and valves are going to be friends. as long as its done right is all that matters. i made this DIY for people that may want to know how its done and for people who are able to do this to se how i did it.

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post #44 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 09:58 PM
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well your engine is not timed right yes you will wreck stuff, we have interferance engines so yes it will tear stuff up if its not done right.

and as for valves no you do not need any machine work if you get the standard size valves. but when i had my head off i had the valves, springs and retainers installed at a machine shop just incase it needed anything. i didnt need anything but i did that just incase tho.
i thought we had non-interferance engines, cause when my timing belt snapped in my cressida (last updated 5M-GE engine) nothing happen besides my RPMs droped and i rolled to a stop and i was gunning( at WOT) it in the middle of it ;-) and everybody i asked in the past thats builds these motor on the regulary said the same thing about it being non-interferance. I mean think about it we use belts not chains, wouldnt one consider the use of a timing chain a inferance. Chain dont snap like belts do.

MY IS is Boosted with imagination by Sesame Street Performance (lol)
HKS DLI ignition box, PHR alternator 230amp or 250amp peak idk, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Brain Crower 264 cams, SRT Intake with RaceECU, Fidinza adjustment Cam-gear Exhaust set 0, Mishimoto Engine&Trans radiator+hoses, megan racing y-pipe, OEM FRS 4.10 rear Torsen LSD diff, greddy EVO2 cat-back, SSR type CRS wheels, Tokico Illumina 5-way shocks, Cusco blue swaybars and chassis stiffiners..... Doin that all motor build
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post #45 of 120 (permalink) Old 06-22-2009, 11:27 PM
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All Honda motors are interference motors and they all use timing belts.

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