DIY Cam Gear Install - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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DIY Cam Gear Install

Alright well I dont know if this has been covered but Ill do it anyway. Today after work I installed my Unorthodox Racing cam gear and set it to -4.

Alright well first off you can either do this with or with out the drive belt on the car, I chose to do this with it on. If you need to know how to take it off I am sure a simple search will help you out.

Ok this is what I did opend the hood and saw both the top two timing covers. On the first timing cover there are 4 alen head bolts I wanna say they are a 5mm alen head's Remove all 4 and put in a safe place where you wont loose them. And simply remove the top timing cover its not that hard!! Ok moving onto the 2nd timing cover there are three 5mm alen head bolts 2 on the outside and one in the middle. It was hard for me to get a picture of this on my phone but I will update it later with some better pics. Ok so getting to the one on the passenger side is not that hard so its pretty simple to to remove it. The middle one and the one on the driver side of the car are a bit tricky. What I did is I used a 5mm alen with a ball on the end of it and used it that way to take both them out. And to make sure that i dont drop them i put a magnet right by the hole to catch the bolt!

This is with both covers on:


With the #1 cover off:


This is a picture with both covers off:


For clarity:
1) Set motor to TDC by aligning the crankshaft groove with timing mark '0'. 2) Check that the camshaft timing pulleys notch is aligned to the timing cover.
2a) If not, turn the crankshaft 1 full revolution (360 degrees). The crank and camshafts should now be aligned
3) Turn crankshaft pulley 60 degrees counterclockwise to place sub timing groove on the crankshaft at mark '0'
4) This should alight the camshafts pulley DOTs with the timing cover

(Thanks TecKis300 for a better description)

This is what it should look like when your cams are set up and things are timed right:

Make sure to use a little paint to mark the timing marks on each cam gear. Also mark the new adjustable cam gear with paint to ensure proper alingment!

Then next step is to take the big plastic under body cover off. These are all 10mm screws and i think 2 or 3 plastic clips. Once this is off if you lay under the car and look up by the alternator you should be able to see the timing belt tensionor. If you need to move the rubber hose out of the way that is by the belt tensionor this is for the water pump if your wanting to know. Take a 12mm deep socket on a 12" 3/8" drive extension and you should be able to reach the two bolts for the tensionor. Slowly loosen one of the bolts then do the same to the other. IMPORTANT try not to remove them or the tensionor doing so will make things a bit harder!!! Here is what it will look like under the car and looking up at the tensionor:


Once that is loose and backed off and your timing is still at TDC you can now remove the 17mm bolt holding on the exhaust cam gear. Now what i did to remove this was i slide the belt off the gear to make sure i didnt mess up the timing of the engine. If the timing happens to change its real easy to just reline up the timing to the marks that are on the engine and backing plate. Now take the 17mm socket on either a 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive and I hit the wrench with my hand to break it loose. Once it was loose i use my fingers and took it off. I then kind of wiggled the cam gear off the cam and there you go the gear is off!! Now take your OEM cam gear and match it up with the adjustable gear and make sure there are timing marks on it. if there are not line up the two gears and use the white paint again to make a correct timing mark on the adjustable cam gear. here is what it will look like when the timing marks are painted on the gears:


Once there are timing marks on the cam gear you can now being to reinstall everything!! What I did was had someone hold the belt up while i set the cam gear under the belt and put it on the cam. this may take a few times to get it right, i think it took me 3 times so dont feel bad. once the cam gear is in the right spot on the belt put it up to the cam and slide it on. when is being held on by the cam take the 17mm bold and start in the cam. I used the bolt to guid the cam gear onto the cam with the belt on the cam gear. when your going to tighten down ur cam gear wait till you put tension back on the belt so things stay in time!! Doing it will look like this.

This is what it looks like when somone is holding the belt for you:

And then again this is what its supose to look like while using the bolt to guild the cam gear back onto the cam:


Once the cam gear is on all the way to tighten the bolt just yet! make sure everything is still in time and if it is go back under the car to the tensioner and slowly retighten it up using the 12"mm deep socket on the 12" 3/8" drive extension. Once you have the tensior tight go back up top to the cams and make sure thigns are still in sync, also look at the crank pully and make sure that is in the right position. Remember keeping the engine in sync is the most important thing!! once all that is done make sure ur cams are also still in the right spot and that your painted marks line up if they do it will look like this:




If both of the cams are in time and the crank shaft pully is in time and the timing belt is tight, guess what? you just installed your cam gear, see its not that hard you just need to remember to keep both cams and the crank in sync. and to finish the job up just reinstall the timing covers in the revese order and you should be set. here is what the cams will look like with the #2 timing cover on and the timing marks painted. as you can see they are not lined up but the timing marks are painted and thats what i want to show:


If you have any tips or questions about this please feel free to add them or pm me so i can add them in!! This is here to help other members out and give them an idea on how to do this. if i had to rank this in skill going 1 (being easy) from 10 (being the hardest) i give it a 6. Sorry for the crappy pics all i had was my phone.

Oh and adjusting the cam to the the desiered position is pretty easy if you can do this install.

And I hope this helps out a few members on here!! Thanks for reading this thread!!

Do this at your own risk!!

___Go Fast or F*** It___

Im your local smarta$$

Last edited by leonard_is300; 05-19-2011 at 10:10 PM.
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post #2 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 07:48 PM
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good stuff. I like your orange cam covers

o2' Black Onyx IS300 - Back to stock :( for now.
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post #3 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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They are actually red here is a better picture of my setup

My engine mods are
Toyo Moto header
Megan y-pipe
Full brian crower head setup with 264 cams
Unorthodox Cam gear set to -4
Joe-Z style intake
Un-oiled K&N Filter
All on stock ECU

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post #4 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 12:03 AM
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Great write up it will be very helpful when its time for me to do my install. +rep
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post #5 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 12:44 AM
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Good writeup!

Just want to clarify a critical step so no one gets into trouble.

You technically do not want to be set for TDC! You want it to be 60 degrees BTDC (before top dead center). If you happen to accidentally spin the cams while the motor is at TDC, it would be a really bad thing. With the motor at 60 degrees BTDC, you could spin either cam independently of the crank and things will not interfere.

For clarity:
1) Set motor to TDC by aligning the crankshaft groove with timing mark '0'. 2) Check that the camshaft timing pulleys notch is aligned to the timing cover.
2a) If not, turn the crankshaft 1 full revolution (360 degrees). The crank and camshafts should now be aligned
3) Turn crankshaft pulley 60 degrees counterclockwise to place sub timing groove on the crankshaft at mark '0'
4) This should align the camshafts pulley DOTs with the timing cover

You have it correct in your picture, but the description is off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by leonard_is300 View Post
The next step is to set the engine to TDC (Top Dead Center). On the backing plat there are timing marks for the cams. What I did was get some white paint and paint the marks so its easier to see. Now you can set the engine to TDC this is very important so dont mess this up!! Get a wrench or socket rench on a 1/2' drive with a 22mm shallow socket and spin the engine over clock-wise un till you see the timing mark on the crank pully. Once you have spotted the mark, look on ur cams and see if you can see the DOTS that are used for the timing marks on your cams. If you see the dots on the cams and they are lined up with the marks on the backing plate you are at TDC. To see these easier i also painted these white. you dont have to do this but it makes things easier.

This is what it should look like when your cams are set up and things are at TDC:

Car sold to a good new home!

Full Aristo 2JZ-GTE BPU++ - Getrag v161 - EMU - Brembo BBK - CCW Classics 9F/10.5R - 255/35F - 285/30R - AAR Arms - GReddy Type-S - Hotchkis Sways - Teck Kit - Prolex / Cusco STB - Full ICE - HKS Drager - Prosport Prem Boost/EGT/FP - Innovative LC-1/XD-16 - Goodridge SS - TRD F/R Underbrace - Greddy Profec B Spec II - Megan Toe Arms

Last edited by TeCKis300; 03-04-2009 at 10:12 AM.
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post #6 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 01:23 AM
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Veery nice!

Question leonard_is300: do you drive around with an open airbox?

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post #7 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks TeCkis300 I will change that now and yes i do drive with an openm air box I just clean my filter weekly

___Go Fast or F*** It___

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post #8 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by is300SD2 View Post
Veery nice!

Question leonard_is300: do you drive around with an open airbox?
Before my SRT INtake I used to drive with the open air box and the car sounded really sweet and I did notice a slight performance improvement as I think at slower speeds air wasn't as limited.

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post #9 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 08:14 AM
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I am going to have Leonard_is300 help me with this since we live fairly close by, but what is everyones suggestion on the Titan Cam vs the UR Cam ? I am staying clear away from the HKS, even if it is a gen 2 version.

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post #10 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 09:47 AM
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I ordered my titan cam gear. I called them and they said each tick mark is 2 degrees. I just want to confirm this is correct from other Titan Cam Gear users. I plan on going with the -4.

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post #11 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-20-2009, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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I installed Danazc's cam gear and everything went well!

___Go Fast or F*** It___

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post #12 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-25-2009, 11:53 AM
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Do you have dyno info after the bc cam setup?
Is it big difference

'03 IS300 - E-Shift


[SRT][HKS][Mazzuri][Valvebody][2.5" hi-flow exhaust]
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post #13 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-25-2009, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonard_is300 View Post
I installed Danazc's cam gear and everything went well!
Yes, thanks Leonard_IS300. Leonard knows his stuff. The car seems to accelerate much smoother and is quite a bit quicker up the rpm band. THe car with the srt at higher rpms seems like it had some flat spots but with the cam gear at -4 you can for sure feel the car rev much smoother with no flat spots.

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post #14 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-25-2009, 11:54 PM
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great write up!

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post #15 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 09:28 PM
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Thanks for the DIY. I think I may do this. The gear is not that expensive and the install will be easy since I did my Timing Belt. $150 is worth it if I can get 5-7hp.
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