DIY: Actuator install and tips on regulator install - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 82 (permalink) Old 08-31-2009, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vu View Post
Would anyone by chance know the part# for this clip? I've looked at the parts catalog for our car, and can't tell by the images.
I might have one of these laying around... only thing is it wont have the same texture. I gotta check..

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Originally Posted by Pawel View Post
To stay on topic and not to thread jack by any means I'm still in proccess of troubleshooting the parts. I called few dealers to try to get a quote on actuator latch, and the best I found is $91.25 from IronToad.com. Local dealers wanted $125, also I can get it fixed at a dealer for $300 which now I'm just confused if thats for the labor or for labor and parts, either way doesn't matter now.

Also by doing a little bit of research on Clublexus.com I was able to find that these problems are quiet common on 2nd gen GS, once the car gets older. These guys went as far as taking the actuator apart and replacing the motor which can be obtained on ebay for $5.00 or so. I'm hoping that's the actuator and nothing else.
got a link? cuz i have the other one just sitting here doing... nothing

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post #17 of 82 (permalink) Old 08-31-2009, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by is300_tinez2 View Post
I might have one of these laying around... only thing is it wont have the same texture. I gotta check..



got a link? cuz i have the other one just sitting here doing... nothing
Don't have one. Try searching on clublexus.com or even try searching in google try lexus gs actuator latch and I'm sure stuff will pop up.

Just to update you guys, I took the damn thing apart meaning taking the latch with everything out of the door, what a pain in the ass to take those two rods leading to the handle, I actually removed the handle from the outside and removed them from the top. Actuator is shot, so I'm waiting for it to come in than time to take shit apart again, as I had to put everything back together as I need the car (daily driver).

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post #18 of 82 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 12:22 PM
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Having this same issue, see this thread for part numbers:
https://my.is/forums/f103/passenger-d...unlock-333147/

Toyota was able to order the parts for significantly less than Lexus
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post #19 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-13-2010, 07:34 PM
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I'll echo some of the other posters, if your dealer or shop is willing to do this for $200 or so, it's probably worth it to go that route. Did this over the weekend, the part was around $90 from Toyota. Took a few hours since getting the rods in/out was tricky (as others mentioned), and also mounting the actuator on the bracket incorrectly isn't hard to do. I put it all together and the door handle didn't work, did it over and missed something for the locks. On the third time it all worked fine. It's mainly difficult since it's a small area without much room to work with (and it's hard to tell if it's done right until you put it all back together)
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post #20 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 07:30 PM
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We couldnt get a picture of the inside, but if you look in the inside two bars are held by clips, one is white and one is yellowish. just go up on the clips...
this is the closest i got...
For this step.. i was able to find the clips you were talking about. But i was not able to slip the bar out. How much force does it take? Did you take it off from the inside? Or is there a way to do it from the outside...

Did you have trouble getting it back in when you were installing the new actuator??
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post #21 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-23-2010, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Um... honestly I can't member lol. But it shouldn't be too much force, its just clips. And u have to do it from the inside. And it wasn't too tought to get back on.

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post #22 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by is300_tinez2 View Post
Um... honestly I can't member lol. But it shouldn't be too much force, its just clips. And u have to do it from the inside. And it wasn't too tought to get back on.
hmm i guess i will try again... i was able to unlatch the clips by flipping upward as you described.. but then actually sliding the bar out of the "hole" proved to be more difficult than i imagined.

Thanks again.

If anyone has any thoughts/input please let me know..
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post #23 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-24-2010, 05:59 AM
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post #24 of 82 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunktwo View Post
hmm i guess i will try again... i was able to unlatch the clips by flipping upward as you described.. but then actually sliding the bar out of the "hole" proved to be more difficult than i imagined.

Thanks again.

If anyone has any thoughts/input please let me know..

I can't get it out. How do you unlatch the clips?
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post #25 of 82 (permalink) Old 08-08-2010, 12:59 AM
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I just tried this tonight and couldn't for the life of me figure out how to separate the rods out of the clips. I tried pulling pretty hard but didn't want to break them. Very frustrating.

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post #26 of 82 (permalink) Old 08-10-2010, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Um... honestly I forgot since its been awhile. If I have a chance at work ill open the panel again n take a look..

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post #27 of 82 (permalink) Old 08-13-2010, 03:17 PM
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i just took 3 hours to complete this. the two rods took the longest to figure out.

the short rod connects to a pink & white plastic connector. you have snap off the white and the pink plastic piece connector then you can push out the rod.

the longer rod connects to a light yellow connector. you need to snap it off then push the rod toward the left (or rear of the car) and it will pop out. i had to use medium pressure.

hope this helps.
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post #28 of 82 (permalink) Old 10-12-2010, 10:39 PM
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Just spent the day removing the actuator, of course following this DYI as close as possible. Looks like the most difficult part was sort of commented on. THE hardest part seems to be the two posts. One is to the door lock (with a white, and pink clip- thin short rod- also the easiest one after you figure out to remove both clips), and the thick rod that goes to the door handle, and controls the actual door latch (Not the lock). I found it was easier to access this by removing the door handle bolt on the inside (single bolt), and the bolt in the door well side that is covered by a set screw, and pops off (behind which you will find another bolt that holds the outside door handle on). Once you do that, if your door latch actuator is loose, you can pull your door handle out from the outside, and you have more room, and leverage to pop off the thick bar. Hope this helps! Unfortunately I'm a glutton for punishment, and I also just bought the actuator motor ($10) on ebay, and spent time replacing the motor as well. I ended up taking about 4 hrs, but like most DYIers... learned a lot, and loved the fact that I did it myself. I'm hoping this might save the next guy some time!!.
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post #29 of 82 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 07:11 PM
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Hey! nice rep, I did change the motor, installed one of those from Mabutchi, and it worked just fine first few times I tried to lock and unlock...and then it stopped working...so i unplugged the connector, the one on the picture, tried again and it worked...so now it's working fine while that connector is unplugged, on the other hand, it does not react at all to remote when it's plugged in. And if I want to open the window i gotta plug it back in...so sick of doing it. So please reply if there any idea how to fix it [2005 is300]
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post #30 of 82 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 09:11 PM
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Great write up! I just replaced my lock actuator in the passenger front door. I noticed that most of the posted part numbers for these lock actuators are for 01-03 IS300s. My 04 actually used a different part number than the one provided for the passenger lock actuator. Thanks for saving me some money!

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