Differential Diff Fluid Replacement *DIY* Lots of pics ***Printable PDF Attached*** - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Differential Diff Fluid Replacement *DIY* Lots of pics ***Printable PDF Attached***

DISCLAIMER: The procedures, methods and products written up here was for my circumstances only and were performed on a 2001 Automatic. I make no promises that your results will be the same nor do I claim that this is the best way to do it. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Printable PDF Attached at the end of the post

WARNING: Automotive fluids are not good for you. I have no reason do doubt the statement that used fluids are carcinogenic. Use latex gloves when handling used automotive fluid, and wash hands soon after you are complete with the task.

WARNING on working under a raised vehicle: This procedure requires that the vehicle be raised. Do not depend on the jack alone. Use jack stands and place them under the lift points as described in the owner’s manual.

Time Required: 1 hour

Differential Drain/Fill Crush Wash Part Number: 12157-10010. $0.84 each
Qty Needed: 2

Differential Fluid used, Mobil 1 Synthetic 75/90 GL-5 rated. $9.85 each
Qty Needed: 1.3 qts (2 bottles)
(Don’t cheap out here. This fluid will be in your car for 30k at least (my change interval). Some wait until 60k has passed to replace the differential fluid. That is a long time, and it is better to put in quality fluids and know that you are protected)

For people who have LSD, plan on purchasing a bottle of GM limited slip additive. Add this first, then add the differential fliuid until the diff is full. Thanks to Alexus_300 for this info.

Tools Needed:
-1/2” breaker bar
-10" 3/8" extension
-10mm allen key 3/8” socket
-torque wrench capable of up to 50 ft lbs
-12-14” length 3/8” clear tubing or a spill stop fluid tube (pictured)


Begin by driving the car 5-7 minutes to warm the differential fluid. If the car is already hot, skip this step. Warm diff fluid will drain faster and more completely. Be aware that you are also working very close to the exhaust piping. If the car is fully warm, so too will be the exhaust.

Step 1. Jack up the car. The car should be level when jacked up.
Step 2. Remove the *FILL* plug first. If you for some reason you drain the diff and cannot get the fill plug removed, you will have to flat bed your car to the dealer. Better to be safe and make sure you can undo the fill plug first. Use the 10mm allen head socket and the ˝” breaker bar. This bolt will be tight. Make double sure that the allen is square and firmly in the hole before applying force.
Step 3. After you remove the fill plug, remove the drain plug using the same 10mm allen and the breaker bar.

Step 4. Allow fluid to drain. Go and have a beer and by the time you return it should be ready.
Step 5. Clean the drain plug. The plug is magnetic and is designed to capture and hold the fine metal shavings associated with normal wear. The plug should have black-like goo on it. If you see large metal shavings or chunks, call your dealer and ask them what they recommend.

Step 6. Replace the crush washer on both the drain and fill plugs. Reinstall the drain plug and tighten to 39 ft lbs.
Step 7. Use either the spill stop tube or the clear tubing, attach the tube to the top of the oil container. Make sure it is tight, as you will have to squeeze the fluid into the differential. You don’t want any leaks as you will be under the tube while you are squeezing.


Step 8. Position the oil canister inside the passenger side wheel as far above the differential fill plug as possible. Squeeze in as much of the first quart as possible.


Step 9. When complete, you will likely have extra fluid left in the bottle. Transfer it to the full bottle and repeat the process. You should be able to get almost ˝ of the 2nd bottle into the differential before fluid starts to drip out. Once fluid begins to drip, stop filling, remove the tube, and replace the fill plug (using a new crush washer)
Step 10. You will need a 10” extension to get far enough away to use a torque wrench. Torque this bolt also to 39 ft lbs.
Step 11. Double check that you have torqued both fill and drain plugs. You are done.

Optional tasks:
- Since you are under your car, you should check all 4 of your axle boots. Any leaks or tears in these boots could mean a costly repair. However if caught early, you can just replace the boot, repack it with grease, and be fine.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf IS300 Rear Diff DIY.pdf (219.3 KB, 1515 views)

Last edited by Hiroshima; 07-28-2007 at 11:52 PM. Reason: typos, added info
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post #2 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Info moved into first post.....

Last edited by Hiroshima; 07-27-2007 at 11:46 AM.
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post #3 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 01:47 PM
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Man, this is great. I saw your other thread about changing spark plugs, that was good too. You should be writting DYI Manuals

2004 TCM SD E-shift
2012 RX350AWD (wife's mobile)
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post #4 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 01:49 PM
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AWESOME stuff.... + REP to you for taking the time to do this!!
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post #5 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pawel
Man, this is great. I saw your other thread about changing spark plugs, that was good too. You should be writting DYI Manuals
Thanks. I am doing most of my 60k service myself as it is all pretty easy. As I go down the list of tasks, I will just keep adding to the DIY list.

I will be doing the following things soon:
Power Steering flush.
Auto Tranny flush
Brake pad/rotor replacement w/ brake bleed
Coolant replacement

Have not decided yet if I am going to do the drive belt replacement myself.

Thanks for the note.

Jeff
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post #6 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 01:57 PM
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FINALLY!!! lol...rep++...

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Carson Tuned/VOLK/Seibon/PLP/TRD/TEIN/TANABE/K&N/IPT/B&M/MEGAN/OBX
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post #7 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinoyballah
FINALLY!!! lol...rep++...there shouldnt be a difference if you have a manual right???
No difference, but the Toyota manuals suck. I have Honda manuals that are far and away better. The ones from Toyota are just too simplistic and don't have enough detail pictures. If I make any deviations from the manual I try to note them, however these DIY threads are mainly for those who don't purchase the manual.
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post #8 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 02:50 PM
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you are tha muthaf'n meng!!!!

The Lord givith and he taketh away. I gave my beloved and recieved my life in exchange. Everything happens for a reason.

-Jr.

I am an ISfanastic!!!
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post #9 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 04:01 PM
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This is the first +rep and I give it to you! Saw your other thread
also; have something to do next weekend! Great write up!

I too am used to Helm's manuals for Honda --> awesome books!
We have done so many projects using the Helms... Too bad Toyota
isn't as good

j

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post #10 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 04:39 PM
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+rep!!

Go Fast: SRT Intake w/ R-ECU; L_tuned exhaust; B&M Short Shifter; CEB Heatshield; Royal Purple oil
Suspension: Zeal Function B6; L-Tuned Sways; Boz Front STB; Tanabe Rear STB; Tanabe Rear Under-brace;SRT Rear Under-bar
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post #11 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 04:40 PM
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good stuff, keep up the good work. +rep
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post #12 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 10:04 PM
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Thank you very much. This stuff is much appreciated!
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post #13 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 10:17 PM
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thanks man +rep for you, keep it up and you will save us all a lot of money
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post #14 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-30-2005, 10:21 PM
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what would you say this diy cost you ruffly? again thanks
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post #15 of 96 (permalink) Old 05-31-2005, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKSlexus
what would you say this diy cost you ruffly? again thanks
Fluid was $9.85 a quart.
New crush washers were $.84 each
The tube fill thing that I used was about $8, and I have been using it for 5 years now, so I consider it sunk cost at this point.

Total cost of parts $23
HTH

Cheers.
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