anyone had a problem starting IS250 after new battery replacement? - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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anyone had a problem starting IS250 after new battery replacement?

Hi,
My 2007 IS wouldn't start three days ago. Since never had new battery that was thought to be the problem. It was strange how it just didn't start after I stopped for gas at station. Four hours later it did start and got home to our garage. Then husband installed new battery and that made everything worse! Car wouldn't start at all and idiot lights not all even turning on. With second battery still car wouldn't start but idiot lights all working. Removed fuse cover over passenger side near fire wall and appears that alternator fuse is now blown!! Now can't find what that exact piece is as not sure if fusible block 8262030170 even fits 2007 model. How can just replacing a battery get this complicated?
If anyone else has had a similar problem, please share your experience and how you got it fixed.
Thanks for listening.
Susan
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 12:05 AM
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Edit: Did your husband buy the correct size battery?

The new battery shouldve started the car and the alternator wouldnt be an issue. Did you notice a check engine light come one, when you got it home from the gas station?

Hope its nothing serious. I would have your alternator checked, since its one of the easiest and cheapest thing to check.

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS

Last edited by IS3_FTW; 11-23-2015 at 12:13 AM. Reason: corrected my comment
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Hi and thanks for your response. Yes, I checked myself and husband did buy proper size battery. He also hooked it up properly, negative to negative first, unless manufacturer had battery labeled wrong which I doubt. The negative is on the upper right looking straight down on it and goes into vehicle by passenger side firewall. I didn't notice any check engine light on while I was driving home from the gas station nor when I parked in my own garage. So it is still a bad mystery why car still won't start with now trying two new batteries! I need to find more photos online of proper alternator fuse to see if mine is now a problem. I posted photos of mine in my album as I didn't seem to be able to get them into my post. Will try again.

Thanks!
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 11:43 AM
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can you post pic of the fuse?
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Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 11:53 AM
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yeah i saw the pics in the album that fuse looks blown to me, issue probably be fixed if you replace it. Especially if its an alternator fuse
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MY IS is Boosted with imagination by Sesame Street Performance (lol)
HKS DLI ignition box, PHR alternator 230amp or 250amp peak idk, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Brain Crower 264 cams, SRT Intake with RaceECU, Fidinza adjustment Cam-gear Exhaust set 0, Mishimoto Engine&Trans radiator+hoses, megan racing y-pipe, OEM FRS 4.10 rear Torsen LSD diff, greddy EVO2 cat-back, SSR type CRS wheels, Tokico Illumina 5-way shocks, Cusco blue swaybars and chassis stiffiners..... Doin that all motor build
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 06:55 PM
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Ok, i see the pic now. Thanks Poke.

Is that whole thing need to be replaced? I never seen something like that before, but with it being burnt and broken would be the source of the problem.
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Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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HI,
Thanks everyone for your comments. I am sorry but I don't know how to post a photo right here but I put photos of alternator fuse in my album as I could post photos there. I am new here so someone maybe can tell me how to attach photos to replies.
How would I make sure that the only thing needing repair on my 2007 250IS is just that alternator fuse? I have never seen fuses is a long attached link like that either! I am getting different answers on even what exact fusible link block fits my exact car. So this is really difficult problem! I can't believe it all started with just needing a new battery! What are some of the causes of a blown alternator fuse? Does anyone know?
Thanks for reading this and for any help.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Hi,
I am trying to post my photos of all this here so hope it works for me this time.
Thanks for looking at them and for any help.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 11:39 PM
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You can use a 3rd party photo sharing like photobucket. Stay away from flickr if you can.


Quote:
Originally Posted by drsusan32 View Post
Now can't find what that exact piece is as not sure if fusible block 8262030170 even fits 2007 model
Is the part number for your car? I was confused what you were trying to say here. The fuse block is what you will be needing to replace that blown unit. That is one expensive fuse

You can call Lexus parts dept and give them the part number, then ask if it fits your 07. If it is, then buy it online for discounts

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Hi and yes, that may be the part number for that fusible link but I am not certain. How labor intensive is it to install that? It looks much more difficult that what I was expecting a fuse to be.
Thanks for your comments and for listening.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 12:58 AM
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Thats something new for some of us. If you have the time, take some pics of the process.


From what i can see in the pic, it looks like the nut and black clip is holding it down. I circled what i am talking about. There might be a part number on the plastic once you remove it.


Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 11:05 AM
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some pics of a 2009 IS250 Fusible link i googled some pictures

http://m.clublexus.com/forums/attach...1&d=1199681913


http://www.isparts.net/1404/040414%20(66).JPG


http://www.clublexus.com/forums/atta...228_180703.jpg


http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/...201_120148.jpg


https://www.tlsautorecycling.com/pro.../141400_01.jpg


https://www.tlsautorecycling.com/pro.../141400_02.jpg


https://www.tlsautorecycling.com/pro.../141400_03.jpg


some pics of a 2009 IS250 Fusible link i googled some pictures

MY IS is Boosted with imagination by Sesame Street Performance (lol)
HKS DLI ignition box, PHR alternator 230amp or 250amp peak idk, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Brain Crower 264 cams, SRT Intake with RaceECU, Fidinza adjustment Cam-gear Exhaust set 0, Mishimoto Engine&Trans radiator+hoses, megan racing y-pipe, OEM FRS 4.10 rear Torsen LSD diff, greddy EVO2 cat-back, SSR type CRS wheels, Tokico Illumina 5-way shocks, Cusco blue swaybars and chassis stiffiners..... Doin that all motor build

Last edited by Poke_IS300; 11-25-2015 at 11:13 AM.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 11:18 AM
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some one on clublexus actually shows how to remove the fusible link


DYI Fusible Link Removal? - Page 2 - Club Lexus Forums



Assuming this is the pricing for the fusible link block
http://is.sewellparts.com/oem-catalo...S250-2008.html

MY IS is Boosted with imagination by Sesame Street Performance (lol)
HKS DLI ignition box, PHR alternator 230amp or 250amp peak idk, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Brain Crower 264 cams, SRT Intake with RaceECU, Fidinza adjustment Cam-gear Exhaust set 0, Mishimoto Engine&Trans radiator+hoses, megan racing y-pipe, OEM FRS 4.10 rear Torsen LSD diff, greddy EVO2 cat-back, SSR type CRS wheels, Tokico Illumina 5-way shocks, Cusco blue swaybars and chassis stiffiners..... Doin that all motor build

Last edited by Poke_IS300; 11-25-2015 at 11:41 AM.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 11:26 AM
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***step by step instructions from a user from Club lexus forum***
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2...k-removal.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by pokoyn View Post
I made a similar mistake while replacing the pulley/tensioner. tapped the alternator ground with my wrench and went metal to metal, shot some sparks and blew the fusable link. ALWAYS DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY AND PAY ATTENTION TO TERMINAL + AND - SIDES LOL

Here are some tips. and what you need

(needle nose pliers or vise grips, 10mm & 8mm sockets, long thin flat head screw driver, fine tip sharpie)

remove the cover and remove the bolt inside the black cover, this holds the fusable link to a main cable (probably the alternator cable).

After that bolt is removed use some muscle and pull that cable out. Everything slides UP on this damned box lol.

once that is done you will still see a smaller wire running into the left side of the box on the underside and a fat group of cables on the right. at this time undo the bolts that hold the box to the fender but keep them near by.

after both bolts are out pull up on the box and flip it so you can CUT the ZIP TIE on the bottom right side of the box, be vary careful not to cut that cable. this will allow you some more freedom when it comes to moving things and basically flexing with all of your muscle to get this thing apart.

now that the wire is disconnected reattach the box to the fender with the two bolts. you'll understand why shorty.

now you will need needle nose pliers or something to pull up pieces of the fuse box.

there are 3 pieces (1 long black piece, a smaller black piece, and the white fusable link)

I pulled up on the smaller black piece with my pliars but as you do this you need to use your other hand to push the tabs inside the box holding the fuse pieces inwards or outwards depending which tab it is while constantly pulling up. once you get fuse pieces started and raised maybe half of an inch switch to the long black piece.

The long black piece must come out first. but you have to pry a white container on the bottom side of it off before it can be separated from the fusable link. once you pry the two white tabs off of it the long black fuse piece will separate and you can pull it out.

now undo those two fender bolts again and get the box out of your way. undo the bolt that holds the smaller black fuses to the fusable link and pull it up and away.

now you should have this rats nest of a fusable link and cables staring at you. I took pictures of both sides of the box incase i ever got mixed up or confused. I also used a fine tip sharpie to number each connection on BOTH fusable links and number each CABLE on the metal connection that corresponds. So you should be numbering or labeling 1. blown fusable link 2. cables attached with their corresponding label or number 3. the new fusable link

the back side facing the windshield is all 10mm, and the front is 8mm, undo them and then pull the connectors out last. the connectors were really hard to pull out. I had the screw driver pushing the tab in and pulling the cables (but be CAREFUL) you don't want to unpin anything .

reattach the connectors then the cables this helps keep the cables in place. also try to lay the fusable link flat YOU DONT WANT TO LOSE THESE BOLTS. I almost lost one, and you will not be happy. so just take your time reattaching everything.

then reattach the small black connector to the new fusable link by sliding it onto it and then bolting it in place. then attach the black long piece and the white case the holds the stray cables in place. I put it all together and then as a unit slid it back into the box. it is tricky as you have to make sure all the slides line up and everything locks/clicks in place. then reattach the alternator cable by pulling really hard and bolting it back into the box, bolt the fusable link down, and bolt the box back in place, close the cover.

NIGHTMARE OVER!!!! everything should work but my windows wouldn't at first, so just go test things and use the actual door controls for passenger doors if they don't work from the driver door, and they should work, fingers crossed. I'd say this took about 90 minutes because of the BS of trying to solve the puzzle. Doing it again I could finish in 30 minutes. hope this helps someone and sorry no pics I was too pissed off about my $130 mistake to bother with pics. You shouldn't really need them I went into pretty deep detail. lol

anyway cheers, and good luck

MY IS is Boosted with imagination by Sesame Street Performance (lol)
HKS DLI ignition box, PHR alternator 230amp or 250amp peak idk, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Brain Crower 264 cams, SRT Intake with RaceECU, Fidinza adjustment Cam-gear Exhaust set 0, Mishimoto Engine&Trans radiator+hoses, megan racing y-pipe, OEM FRS 4.10 rear Torsen LSD diff, greddy EVO2 cat-back, SSR type CRS wheels, Tokico Illumina 5-way shocks, Cusco blue swaybars and chassis stiffiners..... Doin that all motor build

Last edited by Poke_IS300; 11-25-2015 at 11:37 AM.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 09:36 PM
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Nice find Poke. Looks like its a common problem smh.

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
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