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post #31 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-10-2018, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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In all honesty i wanted an R32 GTR to build but the gtr tax on them over here is ridiculous so i built my own toyota version and best of all i get to use a 2jz instead of an unreliable RB pos.
I also have a dry shot nitrous kit to get it onto boost instantly if required.
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post #32 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Front prop shaft will be here in a few days(front cv to suit toyota front diff and rear cv to suit the territory transfer case flange). i’ll have Most of the loose ends tied up this set of days off work. Depending on weather i may be doing my first start this coming tuesday if not the following weekend.
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post #33 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 10:38 AM
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Such an awesome project and great build pace

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post #34 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Floor is complete, its final assembly time, i ran out of time this round of days off but next block she’ll be ready for first start.
Jobs left include extend exhaust, shorten intercooler pipe, repair a few wires and run an extra for vvti, make a couple of spacers for the center bearing, make a wastegate dump tube and add all the fluids.
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post #35 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 04:45 PM
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Garage
very very cool, cant wait to see more
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post #36 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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I got everything done except the cooler pipe and exhaust, added all the fluids and went to start it and it fried my lexus ecu etcs power supply circuit, im unsure if it is caused by the new used 2jz etcs-i throttle body or something else thats changed over the last year so i am sorting through the wiring and either fixing my ecu or using the one out of the half cut, i need to rectify the cause before i plug the new ecu in so i dont end up with 2 dead ecus.
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Last edited by Awd300; 12-28-2018 at 04:44 PM.
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post #37 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 05:58 PM
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What part of the etcs circuit burnt up? The dbw motor driver +\- or the electric clutch? It’s a small bump compared to all the fab you’ve done, but still sucks.
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post #38 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-28-2018, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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I dont have access to an ecu circuit diagram so i am unsure, it is blowing the etcs fuse so i have some continuity/light bulb tests to do on the fuse box and ecu when i get home so i can track the issue. I suspect its drawing excessive current through that circuit rather than being a short to ground, i am currently working away so i wont be able to test anything for a week or so.
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post #39 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 03:02 AM Thread Starter
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The car is mechanically finished with exception to the interior reinstalled and ecu issue, i traced down my wiring and tested for shorts etc and found nothing, unfortunately as soon as i touched the terminals to the battery it fried the diodes in the ecu and blew the etcs fuse instantly, atm i’m pretty stumped as i havnt changed anything electrically. The plan currently is to install light globes instead of diodes and use that as a test tool and start unplugging things and watch the condition of the light until i find the issue, correct it and resolder some new diodes in. Its doing my head in. 😕
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post #40 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 01:06 PM
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This is a cool build in progress. Subscribed!
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post #41 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, i had the diodes in my ecu replaced with some light globes and diodes to allow me to find the short, i chased all through my wiring etc for the short but found nothing, after 3 days in it i traced the short back to the ecu, as it turned out this is what happened. I disconnected the autronic ecu power wire so i could crank the engine to build oil pressure before i started it. The autronic tried to pull its power through the shared sensors etc seeing its a parrallel ecu install and torched the diodes and the circuit board creating a dead short between the etcs power pin and the chassis ground pin. I bought a used ecu and key, put my ecus back to how they were before i started the conversion and disconnected the crank sensor, bought a new battery and cranked it until i had oil pressure then fired it up. Its alive..... unfortunately the 2jz gte etcsi throttle body i bought isnt working so the dbw is in limp mode so thats my next diagnostic task, i also have a premium japan manual throttle convert kit to install but i want the dbw working to control idle before i install the kit as it will be easier to diagnose with the dbw working as factory intended.
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post #42 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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If anyone has any info as to what sensors are required or fuses to check for etcs-i to function correctly that would be very helpful.
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post #43 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awd300 View Post
If anyone has any info as to what sensors are required or fuses to check for etcs-i to function correctly that would be very helpful.
I think there’s 12 ish wires that run the etcs-i dbw.

So there’s sensors vta1 and vta2 (these are TPS); vpa1 and vpa2 (these are APPS); Clutch + (12V sw) and Clutch - (pwm 230hZ ground), and M+ and M- (dbw stepper control). The vta and vpa are 5V sensors. If you want the Toyota diag sheets, pm me your email and I will send them.

Reference: I put the etcs-i dbw controls to my AEM Infinity.
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post #44 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Do you happen to have a list of conditions that put it into limp mode. Ie failed maf or O2 sensor or similar
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post #45 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 10:11 AM
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No, I just have the Toyota manuals/diagrams. I don’t know if they have a limp mode list of specific causes.
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