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post #16 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 02:51 PM
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this is going to be interesting indeed. to my knowledge, this is the first AWD IS300?
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post #17 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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I believe so, there are altezza gita wagons which are the same platform but 1st lexus IS300 sedan.
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post #18 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 05:12 AM Thread Starter
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Engine build- first round was gte oil pump, 625 head studs, brian crower valve springs, Spool pro drag i beam rods with 7/16 bolts, gte pistons, underdrive harmonic balancer, billet timing tensioner, 1400cc injectors, non return fuel system consisting of modded stock hanger and 320lph pump at 0psi into surge tank, dual 380lph staged pumps, hard lined to pressure reg with pressure transducer, single -8 teflon supply, splitting into dual -6 lines, one going through flex sensor into new fitting on stock fuel rail, other -6 line running into stock fuel rail supply, incl pulsation damper.
32psi from my 76mm turbo cracked the ring lands on the gte pistons so i bought a set of drop in CP pistons, this setup was pretty wild, that much power with a 6000rpm converter and limited tyre size resulted in significant wheelspin at 160kmh and above, i set up ign retard and cylinder cut traction control in my ecu but unfortunately the harmonics created by cutting intermittent cylinders at full power and rpm seems to have caused my to crack 5 of 7 of my main caps. These traction issues and the requirement of a new block and crank pretty much sealed the deal on the awd setup. Enter the crown halfcut.
This round of changes includes- all wheel drive as described in earlier posts, the awd 2jz is not interchangeable with a normal 2jz as the oil pump pickup comes out of the bottom of the pump rather than from the block halfway down. I gave the inlet and exhaust ports and bowls a light clean up and reshape, cc’d and polished the chambers, shimmed and fitted a set of brian crower 276/276 high lift cams, im reusing my piston/rod/fasteners combo from before in the crown block with new rings and bearings, i also use the NA gasket to maintain the tightest quench i can and pull it down tight with CA625+ head studs. I’ll be taking control of vvti now i have high lift cams, upping my fuel pressure to get a bit more headroom out of my injectors and seeing how much hp i can put down through all 4.
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post #19 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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Transmission and transfer case
transmission is a turbo hydromatic 3 speed automatic from a late 70s gm vehicle, all the usual th400 mods, 300m input shaft, extra clutches, full manual transbrake valve body, high rpm oil pump mod etc etc, the bellhousing has been cut off and a cnc adaptor bolted to the oil pump and an a340 J3 bellhousing bolted to that, i use a stock 1jz gte flex plate with arp flywheel bolts, i have a custom TCE 8 inch torque converter. It is th400 oil pump drive to toyota flex plate bolt spacing, its all the usual stuff, anti balloon, furnace brazed, mechanical diode, etc transbraked stall speed of 6000rpm and built to handle 1200hp, i had the th400 output shaft resplined to suit my transfer case, i made up a 10mm adaptor plate that is countersunk to the th400 and dowelled to the transfer case to stop and fretting from torque twisting things. The transfer case is a ~30/70 split, open planetary center diff, i will be using the lexus stability and traction control to brake the required wheel should wheelspin occur and redistribute torque to the wheels with traction the same as the more simple torque vectoring systems do. The front diff is a 7.2 inch reverse cut 4.3:1 open diff with an intermediate shaft going through the sump to a carrier on the opposite side and uses equal length acles left and right, my rear diff is a plate type lsd with a weir performance spring and shim kit installed in 4.3:1 ratio. Front and rear prop shafts have been remade with thick wall chrome moly steel tubing using the stock yokes, CV joints and center bearing. I also have BC coiloversin the rear and im looking at options for lower mounts to suit the front awd setup. I have a rear camber kit and hard race toe arms.
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post #20 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Today i cut and shut my floor to make the front prop shaft tunnel section from the half cut fit. I cut it out of the halfcut along the seams that toyota spot welded by drilling out the spot welds, i used it as a template and marked my floor, then cut my floor with a 20mm overlap, i held it in place with tek screws, plug welded the holes, stitched the sheet metal inside and out, ground it back to clean it up and applied seam sealer and some matt black paint. Next week i will start on the transfer case bulge which will need to be made from scratch.
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post #21 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 05:15 PM
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Man this thing is a monster! I see you went with a COP setup, too. What coilpacks? I went with 1NZ yota coils from a junkyard yaris.

So this 2jz block - it’s a special Crown block that has an offset for the front diff? Or is it just a special upper/lower oil pan? I’m guessing your in OZ or NZ? I saw some parts from Golebys.
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post #22 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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I bought a set of g37 (same as R35) coils on ebay from USA and made the rest and used some suitable plug boots.
The awd blocks have the oil pickup bolt directly to the oil pump at the front of the engine as the usual pickup on a jz would interfere with the diff tube in the awd pan.
First pic is normal jz pan setup note where the oil pickup bolts to and feeds the oil pump via a gallery in the block, the awd block does not have provision for that in the block casting
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post #23 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 11:27 PM
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That makes sense about the pick up tube being in the way of the diff tube. I had no idea how these awd cars managed room for a diff where the motor is already located. I google some pics of gtr’s and they were how you described. Pretty bad ass how there’s a tube cast into the upper oil pan for the axle to pass through! We never get the cool cars here in the states. Really a shame.
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post #24 of 68 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Cheap BBK.... well big rotor anyway.
You get the benefits of larger rotor mass and diameter, its a good street upgrade although a better caliper would be better for track work.
It is basically a cheap way to get Supra 323mm Rotors onto the front of your IS300 without havibg to buy those high priced replacement caliper brackets.
I noticed the stock caliper brackets have the mounting bolt holes offset, as it turns out if you swap the brackets to the other side of the car the top bolt hole lines up and positions the pad in exactly the right place on a supra rotor, a 12mm thick round spacer and oval shaped bracket with bolt hole centers at 30mm is all thats needed to make it all fit and work. I should emphasize to use grade 8.8 or higher fasteners and have the small bracket made out of high strength steel. All up this BBK setup cost me under $20 in hardware and set of supra rotors and new pads, 18 inch wheels are needed although some 17s fit. Best of all you dont need to open the hydraulic system, just slide out the slider pins and hang the caliper out of the way, swap the brackets from left to right side of the car, work out your spacers and fasteners, put it all back together with red loctite on the new nuts and bolts,
Warning- this is your braking system, be smart, check and double check everything, a fuck up here could cost the lives of you and others. Ive been using mine for over a year now with no issues.
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post #25 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 06:14 PM
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Garage
awesome build man keep the updates coming

2002 IS300 1095rwhp Alpha Tuned

Spring Setup - 10:1 GTE Motor,T56, Ford 8.8 IRS, ProEFI128, 7175 GT42

My Build Thread

ig - cillyotta

RIP MIKEY #msperformance #empireperformance
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post #26 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 09:21 PM
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Cool to see people doing something different. Good luck getting it all together
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post #27 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-09-2018, 04:22 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday i fabricated the transfer case and front prop shaft humps in the floor to make room for the front drive hardware. When i get home next werk i’ll wire wheel the surface rust off the panel steel, trim the floor to suit and stitch weld it inside and out, seam seal it, spray on some sound deadener and hit it with some paint.
Jobs i have left before first start:
Fabricate screamer dump tube
Connect up power steering and trans cooler hoses
Wire up the Autronic ECU to control VVTI
Install my dbw throttle convert kit
Shorten one of my intercooler pipes 40mm
Add fluids
Charge battery
Install front prop shaft when the shop finishes it.
After all that i have to work out how to make the passenger side seat fit back in and look stock, i think i’ll make up a new seat mount and put it in a fixed position now it’s travel is reduced by 100mm and the factory front right side seat mount is no longer suitable.
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post #28 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-09-2018, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awd300 View Post
Yesterday i fabricated the transfer case and front prop shaft humps in the floor to make room for the front drive hardware. When i get home next werk iíll wire wheel the surface rust off the panel steel, trim the floor to suit and stitch weld it inside and out, seam seal it, spray on some sound deadener and hit it with some paint.
Jobs i have left before first start:
Fabricate screamer dump tube
Connect up power steering and trans cooler hoses
Wire up the Autronic ECU to control VVTI
Install my dbw throttle convert kit
Shorten one of my intercooler pipes 40mm
Add fluids
Charge battery
Install front prop shaft when the shop finishes it.
After all that i have to work out how to make the passenger side seat fit back in and look stock, i think iíll make up a new seat mount and put it in a fixed position now itís travel is reduced by 100mm and the factory front right side seat mount is no longer suitable.
Sent you a PM. Have not heard back. Are you getting them?
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post #29 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-09-2018, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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All the information i have for the brake upgrade on hand is in here, i would have to disassemble my car to get the info you asked for, i recommend you disassemble your car and check it for the bolt sizes and make the spacers you require accordingly, you could use a stack of washers to get the thickness you require then have it laser cut out of steel the correct thickness. That is what i did.
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post #30 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-10-2018, 01:57 PM
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Wicked build, man - I'm just sitting here in awe at all the things you're doing with this car that I'd never be brave enough to even think about. Gonna be a completely different beast when it's all done!
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