My 2001 IS300 1JZ swap - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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My 2001 IS300 1JZ swap

Background: I purchased my second IS300 from a friend of mine a while back with the intentions of swapping the motor with another good running 2JZGE and use it as my daily driver. I was given a pretty good deal I couldnt pass up due to the fact that it was running really rough and was most likely in need of replacement. Upon swapping the motor, it still ran the same as the original motor! I messed around with it trying to get it to run right but just couldnt get it to. I changed the engine harness thinking that the original one may have been damaged and this seemed to make the problems worsen lol. So instead of spending any more time and effort into it just to get it to perform like a stock IS300, I decided I wanted to make the time and effort worth while. So I called it quits on the 2JZGE and decided to start fresh with a new motor harness and ecu.

I ended up purchasing a 1JZGTE from a JZS171 (Toyota Crown) from JDM of San Diego online store. I chose this platform because from all the research I had done, this particular model engine harness/ecu are most compatible to the 2001 IS300 chassis. The JZS171 ecu shares the same digital multiplex plug as the IS300 and the header plug is identical to the IS300 plugs that plug into the ecu. So with a bit of repinning at the plugs and some modification to certain areas of the IS300 harness, you can make this swap plug and play and run off of the 1JZ ecu.




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Last edited by madchyers; 05-05-2019 at 11:30 AM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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After the motor arrived, I started to stock pile maintenance parts for the 1j. I didn't want to have to deal with servicing anything on this motor anytime soon after its installed because its so much more convenient when its out of the engine bay so you can access every part of the motor with ease. I went through driftmotion for all of the parts:

valve cover gasket kit
rear main seal
cam seals
serpentine belt
timing belt
2jzge water pump (this eliminates the hydrofan pump on the 1j)
lightweight pulley kit (needed a 2j waterpump pulley, so I just opted to upgrade the waterpump, alternator and PS pulleys)











Next I decided to clean up the valve covers a bit while I waited on more parts to come in the mail. I grabbed some Duplicolor engine paint and primer from the parts store, cleaned up the surface area with brake cleaner and steel wire brush.






Next I received my future fabrication downpipe, j-pipe delete, and xcessive manufacturing motor mounts (I ordered IS300 mounts as they are pnp with 1jz). Pretty straight forward install, and it really opened up a lot of room at the top of the engine!







Before the j-pipe delete



After!
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Last edited by madchyers; 05-04-2019 at 08:20 PM.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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I had been storing the car at my shop before bringing it to my house. To keep the mess down to a minimum at the house and clutter/space as well, I pulled the 2JZ out at the shop so that I could immediately get to the swap when the car arrived. After draining the fluids, it was out in about 1.5 hours.





Final prep! Mishimoto intercooler, stage 2 competition clutch, pressure plate and lightweight 1j flywheel.




Night before the transplant.


Dropped in on my birthday, by myself in about 40 minutes!
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Last edited by madchyers; 05-04-2019 at 08:31 PM.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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For the standalone solution I opted for a kit that is fairly new to this platform. I had great success with it in my na-t IS300 so there was no hesitation to make the decision to purchase the same one for this chassis. I purchased an IS300 Link ECU from Xcessive Manufacturing (click here for more specs!) This ecu completely eliminates the factory ECU and is still able to retain all of the stock gauges/functions as well as offer a robust tuning application, to me it just makes the most sense and is the best bang for the buck in my opinion!



I also opted to keep the factory 1j engine harness since the plugs are all the same as the 2001 IS300 plugs, with a quick repinning and cross reference between the 01 IS and JZS171 we were able to make it plug and play. The harness lays itself out perfectly to fit into the stock IS300 airbox.



Here's another big reason why I like this kit so much. Xcessive Mfg really did a good job at paying attention to detail to even make it fit in the ecu box like it was meant to be. I drilled a small hole in the back of the lid also to allow for the integrated map sensor vacuum line to pass through as well. It was the perfect length hose to reach the vacuum nipple on the backside of the intake manifold.






Next, I moved onto the throttle cable replacement. The factory IS300 throttle cable is too short and wont reach the throttle body on the 1j. I used a 1994 2.2L 4 cyl Camry throttle cable I found used on ebay. Could have probably got it even cheaper at a pick and pull but I don't have much time (or desire) to make a trip to the junkyard, it was still cheap though.



Just separate this bracket from the Camry cable and it'll fit through the firewall.




I secured it in place with a ziptie, it's a bit long but it works.



I also made a video for better reference as well here:
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Last edited by madchyers; 05-05-2019 at 11:29 AM.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Test fitting the intercooler, I made a quick bracket to support the intercooler out of a piece of 16ga cold rolled steel.




I want my body parts to still be interchangeable between both my chassis so I had to make sure it would fit as well.



The intercooler pipe kit I bought was 2.5" diameter, the outlet on the turbo and the throttle body are different diameters so I had to run reducer couplers. 2.25" to 2.5" at the turbo and 2.75" to 2.5" at the throttle body.



Here I used a 45 degree pipe that I shortened a bit to fit right. I also had to break a couple of the plastic guards on the driver side on the radiator shroud to also make clearance for the charge pipe. It is a VERY tight fit, I would almost recommend running smaller than 2.5" diameter charge pipe to make it easier to install. I also had to clock the powersteering line to keep it from preventing the pipe from sitting right without crashing into the powersteering pulley.




At the bottom of both pipes above I used 90 degree 2.5" couplers to route the pipe towards the wheels so I could use a couple of U bends to wrap back around the core support to connect to the intercooler




I had a buddy weld the bov flange on one of my u-bends for me to run a synapse bov





For the upper radiator hose, I purchased a Supra TT hose kit off amazon. The lower hose that came with the motor was already the right size and profile to fit so I didn't replace it with the Supra TT hose that came with the kit. To make the upper hose fit, I just had to shorten both sides a bit for a perfect fit.



With the j-pipe deleted, I had to plug the factory BOV inlet. I sourced these 1" rubber caps online, but I think I will replace with something a bit more durable/stout like a rubber stop plug but this will do for now.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 09:36 PM
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Just curious, in your first post you mentioned one of the reasons for choosing the 1J was plug and play with the ECU, but then you went with a Link? Why the change?

Interesting to see the 1J swap for a change on here, most seem to take the 2JZGTE route instead. The 1JZGTE used to be a fairly common swap over here as its a big upgrade on the Altezza platform from 1G or 3GSE variants, and the engines are cheaper than the more popular 2JZGTE.

2001 Altezza Gita JCE10
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 10:11 AM
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Last I remember of chad was the aids filled FC a good 5? years ago. Glad to see a new car in your hands and nice pictures and narrative. I'm in seattle and have been wondering about the link ecu myself for a while. I've run a stock Aristo ECU for the longest time but would like to have a bit more control as it is way too conservative.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Squareback View Post
1-8-7 on the undercova i-s-3-hundgy
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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I chose to go with a standalone because the factory ecu is extremely limited. Going through all of the time and investment into the swap, I figured I might as well get the most out of this motor. This standalone is hands down the best on the market for the IS300. They've come a long way in the recent years. I'm curious as to what more control you'd possibly need that the g4+ cannot provide. And the fact that it is pnp with the provided jumper harness and can completely replace the stock IS300 ecu while still retaining all of the factory gauges and accessories while at a cheaper price than a dated Dezod AEM v2 kit is pretty impressive if you ask me! I'll post up a video of it running the 1j, but here's a couple videos of it running my daily driven na-t IS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vc6g-XFaCDM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eR88WRw_tK0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiqdzjynXOM







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Last edited by madchyers; 05-07-2019 at 08:09 AM.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 11:11 AM
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awesome! dont see 1j swaps too often. looking good!

Lucy; 04 manual sportdesign
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 11:41 AM
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This is awesome information to have documented and inspiration on my own 1J swap. I had no idea that there was a standalone that could handle the CAN BUS functionality as a single integrated unit, looking forward to more details on this as a whole.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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I lucked out and happen to live near/be personal friends with xcessive mfg and panicwire. They are the team of guys who put together this awesome standalone solution, they used my other IS as their R&D vehicle. When mark told me with confidence that he could get this car running off of 1 ecu and still retain all of the stock functions inside the car, I was immediately interested just because all I knew was tandem ecu whether it was stock or "standalone." This is the first true standalone ecu out for the IS, and the fact that it is native to the chassis and not universal or only built to manage a specific engine makes it even more attractive. Not that I'd ever swap anything but a JZ, I just think its so cool that you could run an LS or a UZ or a 3S or a 13b rotary lol.

Anyways, I've been really busy and haven't had time to update this thread with more content so let's jump back into it.

Next I wanted to utilize the factory IS power steering reservoir because the 1J didn't come with one and I didn't want to buy one when I had a reservoir sitting on the 2J. When I pulled the reservoir off the 2J I immediately noticed that it is much different than the 1J as far as how it mounts. So with some modification, basically I bought a 90 degree fitting to weld to the bottom of the reservoir to correct the direction of flow to suit the area of the engine bay I wanted to put it. I didn't realize that the bottom of the reservoir is also cut at an angle so the 90 degree fitting I purchased wouldn't work the way I intended..but I also noticed that the fitting itself wasn't 1 piece. It was 2 pieces screwed together with an o-ring on the male end of the threading, detaching the fitting I was able to insert the reservoir into the female end of the fitting which gave me a good mating surface to weld and seal. Once I oriented the fittings, I made a quick bracket out of some 18ga steel sheetmetal. Once I mounted the reservoir to the car, I just replaced the softlines to the factory hardline on the car and the push fitting on the pump.

test fitting:


fitting welded:

finished:

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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For the next overhaul, which I should have done prior to putting the motor in, I decided to relocate the battery to the trunk and ABS block to the battery tray. I thought I was going to be able to get away with just bending the lines a bit to move the block towards the front of the shock tower but it just looked so messy and clearance for the j-pipe delete/filter/intercooler pipe was already pretty minimal so I took the plunge and went for the relocation with the motor in.



Battery removed


ABS removed



Lines shortened *word of advice, label them a ways away from where you will be handling the ends of the lines because the brake fluid will rub sharpie off with ease. Same with the ABS block, instead of labeling the ends where the lines insert with a sharpie, I suggest drawing a little map on a piece of paper or something you can reference back to. I made the mistake of relying on sharpie marks on the ABS block and by the time I was ready to install it back in half of my labeled sharpie marks were gone lol.


Here's the kit I put together..I wasn't sure how I was going to route everything, I just wanted to make sure I had enough line to work with. I sourced all of the parts from a local hydraulic/high pressure hose store to save time and money versus going online for them.

- x6 3/16" brake line @ 12" length (I shortened one down to like 3" when it came time to install)
- x18 m10x1.0 3/16" tube nuts
- x6 m10x1.0 inverted flare couplers

Tools I used:
- 10mm wrench
- brake line pipe cutter
- hand held tube bender w/ 3/16" dye
- O'reilly's flaring kit (I used Autozone's and broke 2 of the 3/16" center punches and cross threaded the clamp, I had the same results with Harbor Freight's kit, I found that the O'reilly's rental had the best quality center punches and stronger clamps to ensure that it flares properly with ease)

I can also supply the same kit I put together if you're interested/unable to source all of the parts.



Installing:






Tbh for just guessing my lengths and eyeballing the layout I feel like it came out pretty clean, and was a fraction of the price of all of the relocation/ABS delete kits I was able to find online, which was my main goal.


Removed wire harness from the plastic shielding in order to move the plugs for the ABS block up to the battery tray



Finished


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Last edited by madchyers; 05-12-2019 at 01:32 PM.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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For the battery relocation I was able to get all of the parts I needed from Autozone and the 2awg cable from Lowe's hardware of all places.

- Battery box
- +/- terminal posts
- 13.5' 2awg copper cable, which I ended up cutting down once I ran everything through the car (it was like $1.09/ft and they cut to custom lengths)
- universal 2ga ground (34" length)
- 2ga cable lugs
- mounting hardware/washers



Started one end of the cable with a lug


Next I re-ground where the original ground would bolt to the battery post onto a pre-threaded spot where the relay/fuse box mounts. I sanded the paint down to get a good surface contact as well as the underside of the cable mount.




Running the cable through the firewall and under the carpet




Connecting the positive cable from the fuse box and starter



Running the cable through the trunk liner, I was able to mount the battery box to 2 pre threaded spots in the frame rail. I sandwiched the factory trunk liner and carpet between the box and rail to give extra base support for the battery weight rather than cutting the carpet and liner out of the way.



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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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For the fuel return I decided I didn't want to mess with modifying the factory pump hanger. My previous one leaked, which I was able to fix, and the valve that siphons gas from the other half of the tank kept falling from how it needed to be oriented to sustain vacuum pressure from that hose, which basically made it impossible to use the gas from that half of the tank. So I opted for an Aristo pump hanger I found on ebay for $99.99 shipped. It already has a factory fuel return fitting incorporated into pump housing and is pnp to the body plug on the IS.



Next swap floaters






Installing the Walbro 255 plug



Walbro 255 installed, pump housing re-assembled



Factory pump removal




Aristo pump in



Fuel return hose off of the fuel pressure reg



Grabbed some nylon hose guard sleeve as well



Feeding the line through








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Last edited by madchyers; 05-12-2019 at 02:27 PM.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Also added a Mishimoto baffled oil catch can


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