blkaltezza's build - Page 9 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #121 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 08:07 PM
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Sickk, good luck on your build! Try to update your progress with pictures if you can

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

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post #122 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try to, I have a bad habit of not taking pictures once I get started on something. Once my hands are dirty I don't want to touch anything that's clean, like my phone
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post #123 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 08:18 PM
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Yeah same here lol I just get into what I'm doing, and I forget about the camera

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

My Thread
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post #124 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-10-2015, 05:47 PM
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Guess ill see you at TX2K
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post #125 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 01:07 AM
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The car looks great man. Your paint really shines! The RPF1's are a perfect fit on there.


Random question, but did you soak your wrap in water first? If you dunk the wrap in a bucket of warm water than wrap the pipes really tight it'll stretch. Then when it dries out it'll shrink back a little giving it a tight/clean wrap.
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Good luck with the turbo install.
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post #126 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rabbit-is300 View Post
The car looks great man. Your paint really shines! The RPF1's are a perfect fit on there.


Random question, but did you soak your wrap in water first? If you dunk the wrap in a bucket of warm water than wrap the pipes really tight it'll stretch. Then when it dries out it'll shrink back a little giving it a tight/clean wrap.


Good luck with the turbo install.
Thanks for the kind words, and no I did not wet the heat wrap. What you said is true for regular fiberglass exhaust wrap but this is PTP's "lava" wrap which is pulverized volcanic rock. It's basically the same as DEI's titanium wrap and it specifically says I shouldn't wet it. Unlike the regular fiberglass wrap its alot easier to work with in the first place, its more pliable, and not as itchy.
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post #127 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 03:39 AM
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Didn't even notice it was different stuff. Seems you've done your homework.

I look forward to seeing more.
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post #128 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 03:53 AM
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who does their own research/homework these days. He just comes on here and asks millions of questions. Then starts another thread about the same question, just in different context expecting a different answer

Subscribed to see the end :D

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
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post #129 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-13-2015, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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So I finally started on the turbo install today, I'll try to document everything as best as I can. Maybe I'll turn this into a DIY if I take enough pictures. Weather has not been cooperating lately so I didn't get much done today only worked on it for about 2 hours.

Bone stock drivetrain







Since my car is lowered, I couldn't get the floor jack under the car so I drove it on some ramps and removed the bumper.







While it was on the ramps I took off the underpanels, and my front bumper. Removing the underpanels should be self explanatory, they're just held on by 10mm bolts. Removing the bumper required pulling back the fender liners to reach the 10mm bolt on each side. Don't forget to unplug your foglight and sidemarker harness. Also there's 1 phillip head screw on the grill and the 4 plastic screws on the side of the grill.

Once I got the bumper off I was able to get my floor jack under the car and lift it up from the subframe. Now I was able to get my car high enough to get it on jackstands.

Okay now for the engine bay, first I removed the engine cover, it's held on by 4 10mm hex nuts. Next I removed the stock airbox, and intake tube. The airbox is held on by 3 10mm bolts, and the clamps also have 10mm screw holding them on. Removed the airbox and also removed the EVAP valve from it.

Now here's my first question for you turbo guys, what do you guys do with the EVAP valve? With the turbo the stock airbox won't be used so where do you guys connect this to?







After I got the airbox out I started removing some wires from my passenger headlight. I'll be drilling a 3.5 inch hole right here for the chargepipe and didn't want to accidentally cut the wires so I loosened them so that they're not in the way. I also removed the ABS bracket at this point, it's held on by 2 14mm bolts, and 1 14mm nut on the bottom side. The ABS block itself is held onto the bracket by 2 10mm hex nuts.



Then I moved onto the upper portion of the engine, removed the throttle body bracket which is held on by 4 12mm bolts, and the throttle body itself which is held on by 2 12mm bolts and one 12mm nut on the bottom. I didn't feel like disconnecting my throttle cable so I just left it on there.

Once the throttle body was loose, I started on the Y-Pipe. It's held on by 2 12mm nuts on the bottom portion and 4 12 bolts on the top. Make sure to unplug the vacuum hoses on the Y-Pipe it comes off easier by pushing it off with a flat head screw driver.







I was also going to remove my exhaust today, but the bolts are rusted to hell. The midpipe bolts look terrible.





The Y-Pipe doesn't look that much better





Sprayed some Chemsearch Yield on it and I'm going to let it soak overnight and try again tomorrow. If anything I'll just cut off the bolts and use the ones SRT provided me with.

Also if somebody could tell me where I should connect the EVAP valve once the turbo is in, I would appreciate it

Last edited by blkaltezza; 03-31-2015 at 09:21 PM.
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post #130 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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Well I did some research overnight on the EVAP valve I was talking about and it looks like the proper name for it is the Vacuum Switching Valve or what others have called it VSV. It's purpose is to let excess fuel vapor pressure from the charcoal canister to be released into the intake.

Since in a turbo setup I won't have a non pressurized source, other than the intake tube, I'll just attach a small breather filter to it. I'm curious what other turbo guys have done though. Other than the full standalone guys I'm sure you piggyback guys had to keep this valve too or deal with a CEL code for a faulty EVAP system.
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post #131 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 09:12 AM
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Sorry I don't know anything about this stuff, but I'm going to pay attention to this and maybe learn something for later down the road!
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post #132 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 09:44 AM
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Very nice beginning!

I'll have to double check, but pretty sure I left that valve vented to atmosphere with a longer vacuum hose attached to it.

'03 Wagon - Stock
'02 Sedan - Not Stock

"There's nothing like waiting and getting exactly what you want."
-Hiral
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post #133 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't get much done today, helped my friend with his Acura TL and only had a little bit of time to work on my own car. My phone ran out of battery and I was frustrated with the exhaust bolts so no pictures.

The only thing I managed to get done today was removing my exhaust. The bolts on the midpipe and Y-pipe were seized they wouldn't move no matter what. I managed to snap off the head of the bolts on the midpipe, but no matter what I did the y-pipe bolts wouldnt come off. I used a grinder to grind it down, but it broke my cutting wheel halfway through. Then I tried drilling the bolts out but it broke my drill bit.

I was pretty frustrated at this point so I tried to figure another way to remove it from the car. I decided to disconnect all the o2 sensors and I was able to pull it up out of the hood. Its a tight fit but if you angle it right you can get it out.

After I got the exhaust out I removed the o2 sensors from the header and B-pipe. My o2 sensors were replaced while in ownership of the previous owner, but whatever shop did the job cross threaded 2 of the o2 sensors so they were a pain to get out.

Anyways that's all I got done today, now that the exhaust is out I should get some more progress done. The stock exhaust manifold was in the way of the emboss for the oil return so my plan for tomorrow is drop the oil pan and tap the upper pan. Then I'll relocate the ABS and everything should be smooth sailing from there.

Last edited by blkaltezza; 03-31-2015 at 09:24 PM.
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post #134 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-15-2015, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Well I guess I'll start off with some pictures of what I got done yesterday.

Stock exhaust manifold, Y-Pipe, and midpipe are out and a picture of the snapped bolts, and the gasket that's crumbling apart.





That's all I got done yesterday, now this is what I did today.


First I removed the crash bar, it's held on by 3 12mm bolts on each side. Also don't forget to remove the temperature sensor on the driver side of the crash bar. After that remove the radiator support, horns, and hood latch. All of the bolts were 10mm if I remember correctly.



Then I unmounted the power steering cooler and followed SRT's instructions on how to relocate it.









To relocate the power steering cooler, take off the 4 10mm bolts holding it on. After that mount them from behind with the 2 10 mm bolts. Then just bend them over until it lays horizontally with under the car.

SRT said to just bend them, but for me it made the power steering cooler mount down way too close to the body of the car. To solve this, I took a metal slab and hammered the power steering mount so that it was a perfect L before mounting it on the car. It turned out perfect and made the intercooler fits snug with the tabs between the body and power steering cooler.

Once I relocated the power steering cooler I was able to mount the FMIC. I put the hood latch on with out the support bar, and then I used one of the supplied 12mm nut and bolt SRT provided to mount the top tab to the hood latch. With the power steering cooler relocated it should slide into place easily.

Once the intercooler was on, I replaced the factory hoses with the 3/8 hose SRT provided. I just took the old ones off and measured how much I would need and cut them to fit. I made the right side hose a little longer since I need space for the coupler once I install all of the piping.







Some side shots of the intercooler, thank goodness it clears the frame.





Reinstalled the crash bar





Look at that clearance, its close but its got some wiggle room so I'm good





Drained the radiator through the bleeder valve on the driver's side.



Clocked the thermostat housing, it's held on by 2 10mm nuts, just rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall



SRT said to modify the heater core hose, so I disconnected it and bent the lower pipe towards the firewall. I tried to make it match the same angle as the lower pipe connecting to the water pump.



Original hose



Modified hose



Finished product



Labeled the ABS lines



Took all of the ABS lines off and bent them by hand, this was the part of the install that scared me the most but it wasn't that bad. The lines are solid I bent them several times and it showed no signs of fatigue. I straightened them out and installed the aluminum bar SRT provided. Once I got the bar on I bent each line by hand to make it connect to its original location on the ABS block.



If you looked at my older posts, you guys probably saw that I already assembled the whole turbo manifold with the turbo and wastegate. Only thing I did was apply high temperture thread sealant to the oil drain, applied blue loctite to the threads and reclocked the turbo housing.

To get it in I had to jack up the engine, I didn't get any pictures but I loosened up the 2 17mm bolts holding the motor mounts on each side and used a floor jack to raise the engine. I lifted it about 1 inch and it was enough to slide it in. I'll have to raise the engine a little more so I can tap the upper oil pan later.







So far I've done everything by myself so I like to think I'm making pretty good progress

The only problem I had today was that even after relocating my ABS block I couldn't fit my chargepipe on there with out the BOV hitting it. I don't know why but my BOV tube was a 90 degree bend with the BOV located inside the bend, instead of on the side like the typical SRT kits. I'm going to try relocating the ABS block again to make it fit, or I might just swap out it for the lower 90 degree bend and have the BOV located under my bumper. It's still before the MAF sensor, and its after the intercooler so in theory it should be okay

Last edited by blkaltezza; 03-31-2015 at 09:28 PM.
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post #135 of 350 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Took it easy today and did some wiring. I still need to tap my oil pan, but my dad said he can get me a 9/16 drill bit for me at work so I haven't tapped it yet. Decided to do some easy stuff so I ran my wideband sensor and Tokensolutions o2 delete through the passenger side grommet.



After that I connected my Greddy EMU PnP harness to the stock ECU.













The ECU housing is held on by 1 10mm bolt, and 2 10mm nuts. The cover is held on by 3 10mm bolts. I took it apart and ran the EMU harness through the bottom grommet. The Tokensolutions PnP harness almost makes it too easy

I haven't ran the other end through the driver's side grommet yet but looking at it, its going to be a pita.

After that I started on the injectors, started by unbolting the butterfly valve actuator. Took off the rail feed which is held on by a 22mm bolt and then removed the 3 12mm bolts holding on the fuel rail and popped it off.



The injectors pop right off the fuel rail



Assembling the injectors provided by SRT



Lubed the o-rings with engine oil and put on the injector adapters



As I was checking the o-rings, some of them looked worn out and had little cracks so I'm going to stop by the toyota dealership to get some new ones tomorrow. If anybody needs it, the part number for the o-ring is 90301-00724 for both the upper and lower o-rings

I'll reinstall everything once I get the new o-rings, I don't want to risk having a fuel leak since it's a hassle to get to the injectors once everything is back on.
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