Well I guess I'll start off with some pictures of what I got done yesterday.
Stock exhaust manifold, Y-Pipe, and midpipe are out and a picture of the snapped bolts, and the gasket that's crumbling apart.
That's all I got done yesterday, now this is what I did today.
First I removed the crash bar, it's held on by 3 12mm bolts on each side. Also don't forget to remove the temperature sensor on the driver side of the crash bar. After that remove the radiator support, horns, and hood latch. All of the bolts were 10mm if I remember correctly.
Then I unmounted the power steering cooler and followed SRT's instructions on how to relocate it.
To relocate the power steering cooler, take off the 4 10mm bolts holding it on. After that mount them from behind with the 2 10 mm bolts. Then just bend them over until it lays horizontally with under the car.
SRT said to just bend them, but for me it made the power steering cooler mount down way too close to the body of the car. To solve this, I took a metal slab and hammered the power steering mount so that it was a perfect L before mounting it on the car. It turned out perfect and made the intercooler fits snug with the tabs between the body and power steering cooler.
Once I relocated the power steering cooler I was able to mount the FMIC. I put the hood latch on with out the support bar, and then I used one of the supplied 12mm nut and bolt SRT provided to mount the top tab to the hood latch. With the power steering cooler relocated it should slide into place easily.
Once the intercooler was on, I replaced the factory hoses with the 3/8 hose SRT provided. I just took the old ones off and measured how much I would need and cut them to fit. I made the right side hose a little longer since I need space for the coupler once I install all of the piping.
Some side shots of the intercooler, thank goodness it clears the frame.
Reinstalled the crash bar
Look at that clearance, its close but its got some wiggle room so I'm good
Drained the radiator through the bleeder valve on the driver's side.
Clocked the thermostat housing, it's held on by 2 10mm nuts, just rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall
SRT said to modify the heater core hose, so I disconnected it and bent the lower pipe towards the firewall. I tried to make it match the same angle as the lower pipe connecting to the water pump.
Labeled the ABS lines
Took all of the ABS lines off and bent them by hand, this was the part of the install that scared me the most but it wasn't that bad. The lines are solid I bent them several times and it showed no signs of fatigue. I straightened them out and installed the aluminum bar SRT provided. Once I got the bar on I bent each line by hand to make it connect to its original location on the ABS block.
If you looked at my older posts, you guys probably saw that I already assembled the whole turbo manifold with the turbo and wastegate. Only thing I did was apply high temperture thread sealant to the oil drain, applied blue loctite to the threads and reclocked the turbo housing.
To get it in I had to jack up the engine, I didn't get any pictures but I loosened up the 2 17mm bolts holding the motor mounts on each side and used a floor jack to raise the engine. I lifted it about 1 inch and it was enough to slide it in. I'll have to raise the engine a little more so I can tap the upper oil pan later.
So far I've done everything by myself so I like to think I'm making pretty good progress
The only problem I had today was that even after relocating my ABS block I couldn't fit my chargepipe on there with out the BOV hitting it. I don't know why but my BOV tube was a 90 degree bend with the BOV located inside the bend, instead of on the side like the typical SRT kits. I'm going to try relocating the ABS block again to make it fit, or I might just swap out it for the lower 90 degree bend and have the BOV located under my bumper. It's still before the MAF sensor, and its after the intercooler so in theory it should be okay