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post #256 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-08-2015, 03:46 PM
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nice build car looks amazing i started from page1-17. if u wanna sell those wheels i wouldnt mind paying shipping.
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post #257 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-09-2015, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Just pulled the trigger on some Modellista Qualitat side skirts from Chris (DB8). Shoutouts to Mike (mm71522) for giving me a heads up on these










They're black onyx too so if they're not in that bad of a condition I can probably just bolt them on and go. I'll probably end up respraying them with a fresh coat of paint so they look brand new though The only downside is that Chris doesn't have those little clips, but I guess I'll find a way to do without them since they're not available anywhere
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post #258 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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The side skirts finally came in yesterday so I cleaned it up and test fitted them on my car. The left side was perfect, but the right side is kinda rough. Both of them need to be repainted though. DB8 told me they were black and I asked if they were Black Onyx but he wasn't sure. They are black, but it's a metallic black. I also didn't get the clips but I was expecting that. I'll figure out some way to secure it.







Notice the crease from when it got folded from shipping. I'll try to fix it later.






Another crease from folding, this side looks like it was near some heat during shipping


The edge of the skirt near the front door is really rough, I'll have to add some filler to fix it up before I repaint it.


The left skirt is in good condition, but the right skirt is kinda rough, I'm assuming that they came off a RHD car so it has alot of damage from a careless owner. I was planning to repaint it anyways so it doesn't bother me too much. I also ordered another TRD style rear lip so I plan to repaint the skirts the same time I paint the rear lip.
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post #259 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015, 04:13 PM
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Good pick up bro. I know you'll make them look 100%

PS I have a little update later today

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
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post #260 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 02:05 AM
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Nice, clean, and detailed work and a very nice thread too !

Have you considered drilling a hole in your air filter and running the line off the VSV into it? Kind of like the way it was stock....perhaps that is the cause of the codes? I thought I remembered reading that in one of the supercharger kit instructions way back.

Did you run a fuel return btw? I didn't see it in the thread and was wondering how your tune was affected if you don't have one.
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post #261 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isthisme View Post
Nice, clean, and detailed work and a very nice thread too !

Have you considered drilling a hole in your air filter and running the line off the VSV into it? Kind of like the way it was stock....perhaps that is the cause of the codes? I thought I remembered reading that in one of the supercharger kit instructions way back.

Did you run a fuel return btw? I didn't see it in the thread and was wondering how your tune was affected if you don't have one.
Thank you kind sir

Yes I did consider drilling a hole in the inlet tube for the turbo. I've seen a couple of guys do that and on my buddy's Aristo it's also routed like that. I don't think it's the VSV though. For the first 700 miles after I boosted the car it didn't have any CELs. It's only recently that the same three codes come up every 200 miles or so.

Right now I just reset the CEL with my obdii scanner everytime it comes up but I do plan to fix it eventually. I checked to make sure the VSV was working by connecting it to the battery and it clicks so its still good. I found some threads with other members that had the same symptoms and it's leading me to believe that the overfill check valve is broken. Supposedly its like a $40 part, but you have to drop the fuel tank which is why I haven't done it yet.

As for the fuel return, no I'm not running one. When I ordered the SRT kit I asked Mo at Swift Racing if I should run one for low boost and he said it's not necessary. I also met Jeff Tsai a few months back at StanceNation Texas and he said he doesn't install a fuel return for low boost either.

As for the tune I haven't had any problems with it on a returnless system. At first my idle was terrible, it was around 500-650 and felt like it was about to stall. I found out that I needed to delete the air assist tube since my aftermarket injectors were not air assist like the factory injectors. After I deleted the air assist tube there was a huge improvement. It still idles around 650 rpms but it no longer feels like it's going to stall. About 3000 miles later it's still running strong and I haven't had any problems other than the three evap codes and my clutch slipping in boost lol.
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post #262 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 11:00 PM
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I have heard mixed opinions on the return but that is the same advice I go with. I think your fuel gauge isn't having any issues as others report because you didn't use a return from what I have learned.

Here is some info I found when I was reading up on EVAP codes btw ;

P0440 - not enough vacuum
P0441 - no flow during purge cycle
P0446 - purge solenoid, blocked or not activated

Perhaps before dropping the tank you may want to take a vacuum nipple and just tap it into the soft bottom of the air filter and run the CC VSV into it. From many sources in this forum it will throw a code if not on the airbox, perhaps it needs to see vacuum from the intake....

What software are you using to graph you fuel trims may I ask? Are you going to do the the clutch job and write up yourself?
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post #263 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 01:15 AM
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lexus is200, 2001 - revv stays at 3 all the time when it`s in neutral gear, cleaned the throttle body but didn`t help.
can someone help me please does anyone know how to clean position sensor?
what else could cause this?
recently changed fuel pump of different car could this cause the problem?

thank you
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post #264 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isthisme View Post
I have heard mixed opinions on the return but that is the same advice I go with. I think your fuel gauge isn't having any issues as others report because you didn't use a return from what I have learned.
Yeah I'm fully aware of that, it's the reason I decided to go with a piggyback system in the first place. From what I read in the past the fuel gauge and mpg gauge are all calculated from many variables. The mass airflow sensor, fuel tank float, fuel pump, and injector size all play a part in it. In the stock returnless system the ecu just decides how much fuel it needs to inject into the engine and this is fine for N/A and low boost since it just injects how much it needs without waste. The fuel gauge is calculated by how much air passes through the MAF sensor and it gets some feedback from the o2 sensors as well. The tank float is just reassurance that the ecu calculated everything correctly by sampling how much fuel is in the tank at every quarter.

In my opinion, the reason some people have problems with their fuel and mpg gauges is because they either go standalone or they deleted something that the stock ecu needs to calculate fuel level. For example when people run standalone, they are most likely to delete the MAF sensor because they're utilizing a MAP/Pressure sensor instead. When you do this the stock ecu has no way to know how much air is entering the engine and it can't calculate how much fuel is going to be used. In this case the ecu has to rely on the float sensor which only measures quarterly. I think this is the reason why most turbo IS300 guys get the infamous 1/4 fuel tank drop.

In high boost applications there's no choice but to go with a fuel return because the returnless system just can't keep up. The purpose of the fuel return is to have fuel available on demand in the fuel rail. Unlike the returnless system where it just injects how much fuel it needs without waste, the return system just floods the fuel rail so it has the fuel on tap and just returns the excess.

This is just my theory, but I think it is possible to keep the fuel and mpg gauge working even with a return system. I think the stock ecu takes majority of it's readings from the MAF sensor, so do not delete it. Also placement is very important, I have mines on the chargepipe right before the throttle body. I've seen some others have their MAF on the inlet pipe for the turbo, but that's measuring how much air is sucked into the turbo, not the air going into the engine. That setup isn't helpful to the stock ECU because it's getting a inaccurate reading to calculate the fuel level. The ecu will think that the air being sucked into the turbo is going into the engine, but in reality there's MORE air is going into the engine because it's compressed by the turbo. So in conclusion, make sure the MAF is on the chargepipe after the turbo, but before the throttle body. Also BOV placement is important, it needs to be between the MAF and turbo, but not too close to the MAF where it causes turbulence issues.

As long as the ecu knows how much air is being used, and it has feedback from the tank float you should be fine. I say this because the stock ECU shouldn't know it has a upgraded fuel pump or bigger injectors so it should calculate fuel readings as if it was stock. I don't think it takes any feedback of how much fuel is sent to the fuel rail so I see no reason why the gauges will stop functioning just because of a fuel return system. I remember reading that Toyomoto ran many different setups with a fuel return, dual pumps and were still able to keep their gauges working by keeping all of the stock sensors happy. Also Jeff Tsai has done numerous 2JZ-GTE vvti swaps with the Greddy EMU with no CELs and functional gauges. The GTE has a fuel return too so I think as long as you keep everything working like stock and provide the ECU with all the information it needs you shouldn't have any problems.

This applies for piggybacks like the Greddy EMU and AEM FIC, if you go standalone it's probably harder to keep everything working especially if you delete the MAF sensor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isthisme View Post
Here is some info I found when I was reading up on EVAP codes btw ;

P0440 - not enough vacuum
P0441 - no flow during purge cycle
P0446 - purge solenoid, blocked or not activated

Perhaps before dropping the tank you may want to take a vacuum nipple and just tap it into the soft bottom of the air filter and run the CC VSV into it. From many sources in this forum it will throw a code if not on the airbox, perhaps it needs to see vacuum from the intake....
This really is helpful, I searched the codes before but everything just said incorrect purge flow for all three codes so I never looked further into it. Looking at those explanations it really could be that the vacuum switching valve wants to see a vacuum. I've thought about it before but never did anything about it. I'll have to give it a try soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isthisme View Post
What software are you using to graph you fuel trims may I ask? Are you going to do the the clutch job and write up yourself?
I'm using the regular datalogger software for the Greddy E-Manage Ultimate. I also datalogged the stock trims with my OBDLINK MX scanner. I datalogged the the short term and long term fuel trims to see how much correction the stock ecu made so I could compensate with the Greddy EMU to keep the correction values minimal. Both my bank 1 and bank 2 o2 sensors are spiced together though so it makes it alot easier to tune than compensating for both banks.

As for the clutch job, yes I'll be doing it myself. I've done clutch jobs in the past on my dad's 09 Shelby GT500 and my 89 Saleen Mustang so doing it on the IS300 shouldn't be a big deal. I'll try to take pictures and do a full write up on it when the time comes. I've really been procrastinating since I'm tight on cash right now and busy with other things like school.

Last edited by blkaltezza; 11-25-2015 at 02:01 AM.
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post #265 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by levanimik View Post
lexus is200, 2001 - revv stays at 3 all the time when it`s in neutral gear, cleaned the throttle body but didn`t help.
can someone help me please does anyone know how to clean position sensor?
what else could cause this?
recently changed fuel pump of different car could this cause the problem?

thank you
wow this kid posted in 11 different places the same question.. lol

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post #266 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-26-2015, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Since I got the Modellista Qualitat side skirts, I thought the rear kinda looked naked so I brought another TRD style rear lip. The last time I had this lip I mounted it down low to flow with the Vertex kit, but this time I'm mounting it up high like it's suppose to be.



It's not completely mounted on yet and this was just a mock up so the rear part is sagging a little.



Notice how it flows evenly with the side skirts.



I had plenty of space for my exhaust too.



I saw an authentic rear lip on a altezza bumper in person a while back and compared to the replica it was really thin. The top edge on the authentic lip is about 2mm thick but on the replica it's about 5mm thick. As a result I trimmed down the top edge to make it thin like the authentic one. When I mounted my old lip up high the edges were too short and it didn't want to wrap around the bumper. This time I shaved off some material and it fits almost perfect now. I also need to repair the damage on the side skirts so I took them off the car today as well. I'll probably paint everything in a couple of weeks whenever I'm caught up with my classes.
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post #267 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-26-2015, 02:22 AM
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sure thing m staying tuned to ur thread , as i could learn some things mainly on the turbo setup as i have it in my upcoming plans , the good thing that i wanna run the stock trans too also aiming for 300-350 whp only on max 8psi

the only thing is m considering the CXRacing turbo kit , its not a complete kit but its bolt on , no need to modify or removing the ABS also the inter cooler fits right up. "i wanna hide the setup from cops" , THE LAW wont allow my car to pass inspection with a turbo kit etc ......

ur car looks sick tho , sides and the rear lip matches perfectly

cheers

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Manual 5 speed , LSD
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ME?: buy a car, fix it, mod it , KEEP IT
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post #268 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-26-2015, 09:14 PM
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Got a link for the rear lip? Is it poly?
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post #269 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Got a link for the rear lip? Is it poly?
It's just the TRD replica lip on ebay, there's plenty of them so I just ordered the cheapest one lol. Here's a link though, and yes it is polyurethane

JDM TR Style Rear Lip Urethane Plastic for 01-05 Lexus IS300
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post #270 of 350 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 10:51 PM
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Cool, yeah I thought that's what it was. I was just wondering about the quality of them. Seems like a good alternative to searching out the genuine one or going the JDM conversion.
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