well the engine compartment does look like a tight fit. my brothers Infiniti M45 was the same way with its V8 . manufactures are stuffing big engines in small chassis frames, so trying to perform basic maintenance stuff can be challenging. I took almost had to shift the motor by unbolting the motor mounts to remove my brothers exhaust headers. So its not hard to believe the dealership doing the same thing, probably very little clearance . you should of took pictures of the damage area and the surrounding area so we can get an idea of what your dealing with. like picture from above engine compartment and below. i know their trying to replace the whole line/section, which explains why they are trying to do what they are doing. If the damaged line can be reachable from the top then you might be able to cut and flare it and install a brake line union to join a short new line with the old line. Or by new brake line flare one end and fish the rest of the line down the side or what ever brake line pathway its suppose to go and then cut and flare old line to mate with the new line with the brake line union or replace the whole line from end to end. standard size unmade brake lines with a spool of 15-20ft are $20-$27 bucks at advance auto parts. As well as a brake line flare kit is like $20-$30 bucks, flare nuts are like $1-$3, brake bleeding kit $15-$60, brake line bending pliers $10-$20. Then if you are able to replace the line then you have to bleed the ABS block first and then bleed the brakes at each caliper second.
haven't been in the IS-F engine compartment to give you a straight answer, so this is more of a intelligent guess of what you could possibly do. By the damage being so close or high up in the engine bay. the broken line is probably near the ABS Block, which is my reasoning for bleeding the ABS block as well.
MY IS is Boosted with imagination by Sesame Street Performance (lol)
HKS DLI ignition box, PHR alternator 230amp or 250amp peak idk, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Brain Crower 264 cams, SRT Intake with RaceECU, Fidinza adjustment Cam-gear Exhaust set 0, Mishimoto Engine&Trans radiator+hoses, megan racing y-pipe, OEM FRS 4.10 rear Torsen LSD diff, greddy EVO2 cat-back, SSR type CRS wheels, Tokico Illumina 5-way shocks, Cusco blue swaybars and chassis stiffiners..... Doin that all motor build
Last edited by Poke_IS300; 11-09-2015 at 09:55 PM.