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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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VVTI Not working?

Hey guys. Have an 01' with 160k on her, Just picked it up last month and Im going through the works. Car runs mint, no lights everything excellent. EXCEPT, its not very fast through rpms. Seems boggy almost, and when its floored past about 4k I'll get some unburned exhaust type of smell. Really seems like the VVTi isnt kicking in. I have video if you want, but basically in 0-60 the car is doing 11.8s consistently Yet, below 4k rpms its very powerful and seems as it should. I have already tested the VVTi Solenoid and confirmed that it does indeed work. The car has new Cats. new 02 sensors, plugs, wires, lots of maint work done. Timing does appear on with the cams. But when i put my meter to the lead that goes to the Solenoid, im only showing 0.02 volts... Even past 4k rpms when i throttle the intake. One way or another Im missing tons of power past 4k and im sure thats why, but I cant understand what else to do about it. Any suggestions??
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-01-2014, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Heres link to the video I loaded on youtube of the acceleration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67op...KVuSsJeEgSWBhA
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014, 04:42 AM
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There are many threads on how to test the oil control valve to verify it is working and not clogged or faulty. The manual that is stickied also shows how applying battery power to the solenoid at operating temperature to see if the car tries to die or sputter. I woukd suggest checking out our custom Google search box first and check out those threads. Btw, it's not like VTEC so it's not too noticeable when the cam gear changes timing.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014, 05:43 AM
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As stated, VVT is nothing like vtec.

You can apply voltage to the OCV if the idle stumbles then the solenoid works. If you've tapped into the wiring and took a voltage reading while driving and you aren't getting power to it then we need to find out why.

FWIW, I gave up spinning high rpm in my is a long time ago. It's pointless. Under 3-5k part throttle feels pretty good. But it's very evident even in sound how fast power falls off. The car needs a turbo.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty91o View Post
Any suggestions??
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntensaBlue02 View Post
The car needs a turbo.
Once all tests are passed: Turbo.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for replies. I should have stated that i have already read those articles. Ive tested the solenoid and it does make my car stall, ive taken it out and tested it and seen its operation so i know it works. But it would seem that maybe the car isnt sending power to the solenoid. Why could that be? Is it possible the car had or still has a Tune on the ECU to disable it? I had heard of guys doing this, especially when adding a turbo correct me if im wrong. The car has evidence of many previously installed high quality aftermarket parts. I think many were replaced by stockers when this car was sold. Leaving the car in a state of awkwardness and im trying to narrow everything down. I havent chased the wires too far yet but it would appear they in all in good health and not shorted. So is there anything else that could cause this?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014, 10:03 AM
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Have you verified while driving that no voltage is sent to the VVT OCV?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-02-2014, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Im not sure how to verify that it works while im driving. If the engine is running and i unplug it, i get CEL. (I have a scanner) and it will read for the solenoid. So i clear it and try other things. So it "appears" its working, the car seems to think its operating normally. I ofcourse realize the car isnt Vtec or any deal like that, im very familiar with vvt tech, but theres definitely something missing or odd past 4k ish.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 07:36 AM
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You would have to be creative and get the meter reading voltage at the vvt ocv with the display taped to the windshield or inside the cabin. I'm not sure vvt will activate with the car in neutral or park.

What are your short and long term fuel trims like? You might need to drive it a bit if you've been clearing data.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-03-2014, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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I havent looked at LTFT or STFT yet or anything to that nature. But I Guess I should. And I guess I'll have to figure out a way to check the readings in motion. Ive tried it in park and no results.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 09:27 PM
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If there is no load on the engine, you won't see any change in voltage to the solenoid. Use back probe pins on the solenoid, and tape your leads up, and you should be able to make it work to see while driving. That said, you're wasting a lot of time and effort trying to diagnose a problem with VVTi that does not exist. If it were not activating you'd get DTCs. P1346, P1349 etc.
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