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post #46 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so after looking at Jasonm4444's install of the OCV valve I noticed that the oil control wire that plugs in there is one of the connectors that I mentioned earlier in the post that the clip on them broke just from age the part that clips into place when reattaching it broke off. The plug itself is not loose but could that actually be affecting it, and if so how would I go about fixing that just buy a new connection and solder it into the old one?
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post #47 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Jason how would I test the valve, or upon inspection what should I be looking for and do you have the instructions if possible?
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post #48 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 07:23 PM
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The clip on the connector being broken will not have much affect on the valve as long as it is plugged in. You can test operation of the valve by applying power and ground to it while the engine is running. If it is working correctly the engine will run very rough/stall. What I suspect is going on is the valve is sticking in the open position. To test for that, disconnect the electrical connector and take it for a drive. This will prevent it from advancing the cam, and probably set a DTC. If your car does not start running rough on the test drive then replace the valve. It is simple to do, just remove the upper timing cover, and the single ten mm bolt then pull it out. Install the new one and bolt it in.
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post #49 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-18-2012, 07:26 PM
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Well here is the removal steps outlined some, not much to it.

https://my.is/forums/f115/vvti-ocv-in...0/#post6447312

And to test it..you just apply a positive and negative wire from the battery very carefully, and pull the solenoid connector to give the solenoid battery power. The car should stutter or stall but will definitely change and that is good. here's one of my previous posts. I believe the OP had a P1349 as Cline100 mentioned so it definitely was bad. Using conventional oil can wear it down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonm4444
Possible causes are...
-Oil control valve
-VVT controller assembly
-valve timing
-ECM

What you would verify first is that the timing is correct(ie. timing belt jumped a tooth). If timing is ok, the OCV is next and needs to be checked. There is a mesh filter in the OCV that can cause it to stick and mess the timing up. In order to test the OCV operation, you need to pull the two wire connector off and apply battery voltage to the two terminals on the valve. At idle, the car should run poorly and possibly stall out. Then remove power to verify the car returns back to normal. That would verify the valve itself isn't sticking. Here is the oil control valve, responsible for VVT.(pointing to it)



After those tests, clear the code and see if it comes back as the diagnosis goes a bit further and it could simply be a sluggish OCV, which is common, especially with folks who use conventional oil. Reset the code either by scanner or remove the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes. Then allow the car to warm up and drive it around for at least 10 minutes. Then report back your results and if it comes back.
Edit: Sorry Cline, i was writing this book and didn't see your post. Good post, i think you may be right in the OCV here.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD

Last edited by jasonm4; 06-18-2012 at 07:32 PM. Reason: didn't see previous post
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post #50 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 07:00 AM
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I was a little confused when my tech said he tested it and it stalled the car out (wich means its fine?) so I was bummed but then he said he then removed power and the car did NOT return to normal wich indicates the OCV is faulty?
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post #51 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LETHLEX View Post
I was a little confused when my tech said he tested it and it stalled the car out (wich means its fine?) so I was bummed but then he said he then removed power and the car did NOT return to normal wich indicates the OCV is faulty?
Yea, it doesn't sound like the valve shifted back. It should've started up fine when power was removed. When the car is idling and power is applied, it should stutter or stall but recover when the valve is de-energized.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #52 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 09:07 AM
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Right, no recovery from what he says. Really appreciate all the help Jasonm4444 Crossin my fingers cause up here in Canada we don't have much of a warm period for lovin our customs.
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post #53 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Well I swapped B1S1 and B2S2 today and the car is still doing it. Actually stalled completely this time. Im about to head to the toyota dealership and try to order a OCV.
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post #54 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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sorry B2S1*
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post #55 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 09:44 PM
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Update!! Got my car back today and the prognosis is positive! Had the OCV changed, he said he tested it multiple times and each time it stalled both turned on and turned off (it was clean too) Took it for a good test drive around the city and highway and it runs awesome! After changing all the plugs etc. my Power is much better too. Hope I'm not jinxin' shit! As for running rich I'm still a bit puzzled, changed all O2's and it's still running rich.
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post #56 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 09:49 PM
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Glad to hear your car is fixed. Cline was right in spot, again. Test proved it was bad.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #57 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 10:13 PM
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Don't wanna get my hopes up just yet. Read too many posts where the problem comes to fuk you over the next day. Again I appreciate your help and Clines, hope it works for wkeryder too!
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post #58 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-23-2012, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well guys I replaced the OCV valve today and the problem is gone. The car itself is running better than it has in years and no CEL so far. I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate your help, I would have never been able to figure this out on my own. Thank you guys so much again.
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post #59 of 59 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 09:34 AM
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Awesome! glad to hear it work out for you too! was it dirty or faulty? My engine light came back on but i had all my O2's replaced and my tech said when he replaced them one was actually disconnected....? so if your light comes on stop by and ill scan it he says. Going today to see but all and all she runs like a fukin champ! After the engine light came back on however the i still noticed a bit of misfire/sputter going on at low rpms when gearing down. maybe not enough back pressure?
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