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post #31 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 08:55 PM
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As for the money invested on the T56, depending on what gear set you choose, you can get better gas mileage with the suuuuper long overdrive gears, which lets you get your money back. I did some rough math and the average driver would be able to save the cost of the trans ($3200) over about 7 years. Which is pretty good if you drive accordingly.


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Originally Posted by Hodgdon Extreme View Post
I had to think long and hard before spending $7500 on this T56 arrangement.
Where are you getting the $7500 figure from? When I priced out mine it comes to just over $5400 with all the required bits, pieces, and fluids shipped, sans a new clutch. Granted there is no labor costs since I'm doing the install, maybe that's where the difference comes in, even still $2100 in labor is pretty excessive for a trans swap.


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So any money spent on these cars is money that'll never come back from resale.
I would like to believe that if you're putting in an upgraded transmission you're increasing resale slightly, probably able to get back 60% of the trans.
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post #32 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 01:30 PM
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In round numbers:

Trans - 3200
bellhousing - 700
Driveshaft - 700
Hydraulics - 750 (tilton slave and tilton 3/4" master and stainless lines/fittings)
crossmember & mount - 300
Clutch - 1700 (at a minimum)

https://www.grannasracing.com/produc...up-buy-deposit


Theres some other incidentals also, but it basically works out to $7500ish. The cost of a good clutch is not an incidental, it makes up a big part of the cost. I already have a "stage 3" ceramic puck single plate clutch, and I hate it. It's noisy, and its engagement characteristics suck. A clutch that drives nice and handles a bunch of torque (a multiplate) is expensive, no way around it.

As I mentioned, I spent a lot of time considering how best to skin this cat, to include piecing something together instead of buying a complete kit. I found old non-magnum LT1 and LS1 T56s for $1500ish, and TR6060's from LS2s and LS3s seem to fetch between $2k and $2.5k. Then you need a $350 midplate for the bellhousing to work, plus the gear ratios are unideal. It just doesn't seem worth getting a used/unknown trans and having to buy parts to get it all to work, when you can buy a NIB T56 magnum with the right gearing for $3200.

You could shave a couple hundred off by fabricating the crossmember yourself, and also by using lower quality hydraulic parts. The Tilton 6000 is $400 and requires a 3/4" master, which is $350 more. The OEM GM slave cylinder/release bearing is a known weak point, so that isn't (much) of an option. In fairness though, you can save a handful of dollars buying a cheaper master and slave.

Anyway, cutting every possible corner I could, I figured this setup was gonna cost me $6k minimum. A lot to spend on an old Toyota hardly anybody cares about - but I have a hard on for these cars; so I'm not gonna spend $6k on a "decently done" job when I can spend $7500 on an "awesomely done" job.

Wasn't sure if you're joking about recouping the trans swap cost via increased fuel economy? Are we both talking about high power 2J cars???
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post #33 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Hodgdon Extreme View Post
In round numbers:

Clutch - 1700 (at a minimum)

https://www.grannasracing.com/produc...up-buy-deposit
Ah, there it is, that's what I was thinking next, you got the nice clutch, but you're saving a little with the group buy. I decided not to do the group buy since I wasn't going for the clutch upgrade.


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You could shave a couple hundred off by fabricating the cross member yourself, and also by using lower quality hydraulic parts.
If you've seen Joel's video on the cross member, he seems to do a really nice job for as much as he is charging, so I saw it as a worthwhile investment. I personally love Rude Boy performance's billet aluminum cross member, although Joel doesn't include it in his kit.

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Wasn't sure if you're joking about recouping the trans swap cost via increased fuel economy? Are we both talking about high power 2J cars???
Haha, unfortunately we are not on the same level. I'm still N/A, so I can't get on it the same way as some of you guys. Hence why I was sticking with the stock clutch.


On another note, are you sticking with the stock dual mass flywheel, or does the clutch come with the flywheel all nicely balanced with each other?
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post #34 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DH_71631 View Post



I would like to believe that if you're putting in an upgraded transmission you're increasing resale slightly, probably able to get back 60% of the trans.

May be so, but you're still in the red. The fact is, anyone who can buy a Supra buys a Supra.

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post #35 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 02:07 PM
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On another note, are you sticking with the stock dual mass flywheel, or does the clutch come with the flywheel all nicely balanced with each other?
.

For $1700, the McLeod RXT comes with a steel flywheel. I assume it isn't a fancy dual mass.

I love the idea of a light rotating assembly, and in fact have used aluminum flywheels in American V8 applications - and the feel of the clutch/car never bothered me at all. However, I hate my current aluminum flywheel and puck clutch. It rattles (apparently very common), chatters and engages violently.

Joel convinced me the McLeod RXT was the way to go in video, which he swears is typical of the McLeod...


Last edited by Hodgdon Extreme; 04-22-2019 at 02:15 PM.
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post #36 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
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.

For $1700, the McLeod RXT comes with a steel flywheel. I assume it isn't a fancy dual mass.

I love the idea of a light rotating assembly, and in fact have used aluminum flywheels in American V8 applications - and the feel of the clutch/car never bothered me at all. However, I hate my current aluminum flywheel and puck clutch. It rattles (apparently very common), chatters and engages violently.

Joel convinced me the McLeod RXT was the way to go in video, which he swears is typical of the McLeod...
If you notice in the video, none of the clutch disks have spring dampers, which seems strange since I thought they were used for vibration dampening to help reduce gear rollover and so forth. But hey, if it works, it works!

I currently have Fidanza's lightweight flywheel ready to be installed soon, I wonder how it's going to be with a stock clutch.

Last edited by DH_71631; 04-22-2019 at 08:08 PM.
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post #37 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
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If you notice in the video, none of the clutch disks don't have spring dampers, which seems strange since I thought they were used for vibration dampening to help reduce gear rollover and so forth. But hey, if it works, it works!

I currently have Fidanza's lightweight flywheel ready to be installed soon, I wonder how it's going to be with a stock clutch.
Yes, I also thought it was strange that a "clutch with nice manners" would be unsprung - but like you said, whatever works...

An organic friction disk will go a long ways towards making your engagement characteristics easy to live with for daily driving. The lightweight, non dual-mass 'wheel is going to require a bit more engine speed to avoid bogging when getting rolling, but it won't be bad at all. However, flywheels like these are well known for "clatter", most notably when idling, in neutral with the clutch engaged. It's actually the undamped (non dual mass, and less rotating mass to act as a "mass damper torsional vibrations causing the input shaft to clatter against the cluster gear on the countershaft.
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post #38 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 05:47 PM
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Haven't posted in a long time and thought I would chime in, for the OP, as I have owned all the toyota 5 speed and 6 speed manual trans. In regard to the cd09, t56, and ar, I don't have experience with those. I broke 3 w55's , 2w58's , 2 r154's. All of these transmission's have variables on what there limits are. The most import would be what torque level and what type of clutch ie pressure plate, disk material, puck vs disk, driving style, etc...

I am a little harder on parts so my 58's broke between 325-350. I broke the w58's around 450ish and the r154's 560 for one and the other had Marlin Crawler parts 670. I ran my v160 in my first car with no issues, and now with my 2nd IS. But, I had a friend of mine that had issues with his single disk clutch which was iron material and it welded itself. I currently run a RPS Billet twin disk and need to go to a triple disk setup due to making more torque now.

So to sum up, in my opinion, go for a transmission that will handle more torque that what your target goal is for.

02' MSM 6 speed Turbo low boost 1/4 time 12.5 @ 118 2.2 60' :( parted and sold.
05' Toyota 4runner v8 (Tow vehichle)
02' 6870 turbo runs on corn @ 35psi
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