Need reputable 2jz technician in NJ area! HEEELP! - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Need reputable 2jz technician in NJ area! HEEELP!

ISO 2jz mechanic/technician who can time the engine. I went in hard on my 03 IS300 doing some repairs/tune up stuff last week and I'm in a little trouble- I have what seems to me to be a timing issue now. I am throwing the random multi misfire code, as well as misfire codes for every cylinder. It runs really rough, and there is a slight audible tapping from the intake cam side with the VVti cam gear. Forget what I *think* I know, here's what I can list about whats been done:

-Valve cover gaskets
-Front cam seals
-VVTi Cam seal rebuild
-new timing belt and tensioner
-water pump, water pump housing, and thermostat, with new t-stat to block o rings
-ac compressor, txv, and condenser coil
-New coil pack connectors on the wiring harness (soldered and heat shrinked) *made sure the wires were not crossed for each of the three connectors, seems to have plenty of spark

I had done a timing belt replacement on a previous is300 i owned and had no problems, this time around I had to remove the cam gears for the cam seals, and this time around I disassembled the VVti Cam gear. I believe my issue is with the cam gear. I marked it with a paint marker only to have it rub off on me during the o-ring seal replacement. I took a guess and put it back together. it has a notch on the outer part of the cam that lined up with a larger threadless hole on the actual gear side of it...Anyway, It still starts right up, I've only had it idling up to operating temperature twice- maybe a total of 10 mins.

To be honest, I am and was past my skillset when I attempted this, but i think my engine still may have a chance if the problem only exists within the cam gear. I made sure the cams were TDC and the crank pully was in the exact same spot as it was when I removed the belt. IDK what else to do and need help. I do not want to drive it anywhere in fear I could do damage to the engine, clog my cats, plugs, ect. any help please lmk. If fixable, my car needs some new hands on it. I am willing to pay. I miss my babbyyyyyyyy :'( ::tyrese::

Last edited by aceuvspades; 06-24-2019 at 05:16 PM.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 07:26 AM
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I've never done a timing belt/VVTi job but you might just need to buy a new cam gear:

https://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm3058.htm

02' MT w/MK3 Supra LSD and no sunroof
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 09:14 AM
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I've done two of these jobs on these cars in the recent past. I "rebuilt" the VVTi gear on both. I don't see how it could be assembled incorrectly; it only fits together one way. Yes, there is a tiny bit of slop when you go to tighten the 4 m6 bolts - and allegedly, the factory uses that tiny bit of slop to "laser align" the pulley. Without the laser, you'll be +/- .5, which is just fine.

I think you're most likely dealing with one or both of the following:

1. You broke one of the reluctor teeth off the rear of the crank pulley, because you didn't notice the little brass bracket that needed to be removed before removing the pulley.
2. You didn't get the cam/crank position timing right
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodgdon Extreme View Post
I've done two of these jobs on these cars in the recent past. I "rebuilt" the VVTi gear on both. I don't see how it could be assembled incorrectly; it only fits together one way. Yes, there is a tiny bit of slop when you go to tighten the 4 m6 bolts - and allegedly, the factory uses that tiny bit of slop to "laser align" the pulley. Without the laser, you'll be +/- .5, which is just fine.

I think you're most likely dealing with one or both of the following:

1. You broke one of the reluctor teeth off the rear of the crank pulley, because you didn't notice the little brass bracket that needed to be removed before removing the pulley.
2. You didn't get the cam/crank position timing right

Thanks for the help, I am going to tear it down to the belt again and see if I damaged that reluctor and make sure the crank timing gears on the tdc mark. I never pulled the crank gear, just the balancer to get inside the cover. Also, I just found out that there is a mark down low for the crank after the balancer is pulled so indicate tdc as well, i just went off the mark on the balancer and lower cover. (yellow line on zero for me). I'll start over this weekend. fingers crossed!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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ok guys, problem has been solved. I was off a tooth in timing After I corrected that, i had a cylinder 6 misfire. compression test told me 0lbs, i was devastated. i came back the following week to being to tear down the engine for head removal. i decided to test the cylinder one more time just because. some how it had 180lbs magically. i swear i made sure the seal to the test gauge was tight last time, even tested other cylinders. truly a miracle. the descovered i had a small spot of exposed wire on my lead to that cylinders coil pack. fixed that and now it runs strong again. a truly crazy chain of events im thankful for. going back and forth after work for an hour or two a day on a job this big was not the best plan of action so if i can advise anything to anyone doing this, it's start early in the day and take your time, do not rush, and remember to log where youve left off. thanks
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