Lost My Master Key...Help - Page 3 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #31 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 11:25 PM
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Interesting read. I liked this explanation better.

Quote:
Early models used a static code in the ignition key (or key fob) which was recognised by an RFID loop around the lock barrel and checked against the vehicle's engine control unit (ECU) for a match. If the code is unrecognised, the ECU will not allow fuel to flow and ignition to take place. Later models use rolling codes or advanced cryptography to defeat copying of the code from the key or ECU.

The microcircuit inside the key is activated by a small electromagnetic field which induces current to flow inside the key body, which in turn broadcasts a unique binary code which is read by the automobile's ECU. When the ECU determines that the coded key is both current and valid, the ECU activates the fuel-injection sequence.
Immobiliser - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This seems to be similar to our system. For the wallet key, the chip is store in the keyholder which has no power source. It would make sense for the chip to be powered by induction from the RFID loop around the lock barrel. I'm sure ours are static, as I've programmed the same chip to multiple car's ECU.

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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 06:08 AM
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The system explanations are similar(both RFID) but the valet key is way off in my post. They both use a coil(our transponder) to "excite" the key chip and that's exactly what i was trying to say, power is induced into the key and the chip in the key is not powered. Current is induced into the chip and the chip sends a signal back.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #33 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 07:58 AM
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Agreed. I use the valet key everyday.

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post #34 of 48 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnysks View Post
Agreed. I use the valet key everyday.
Me too lol. I have no idea why either, i guess I'm kinda worried about breaking another master.

Make sure you guys are holding your keys as close to the ignition cylinder as possible with key inserted. Usually they will break at the end and holding it that way will help prolong it's life.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-12-2013, 06:41 PM
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OK soooooo.......I lost my master key today in an unfortunate boating accident. A local usedparts dealer has a ecu,ignition switch and what looks to be a valet key with no buttons. They want $200 for it and can get some door keys made for $15 each. Will this get me going or what's the down falls. Seems like my only other option is the $650 for the "lost key" program.
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post #36 of 48 (permalink) Old 06-12-2013, 06:49 PM
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No, you can buy a master key fob from eBay or the dealer and have one or more reprogrammed(check with local locksmiths and dealers). Once you lose your last master your ECU needs reflashed to the new key set. Check with some locksmiths as it's entirely possible to do everything without having to go to the dealer.

You can even buy a new ECU with key but you also need the ignition tumbler and door lock tumbler, as well as for the trunk. The lost key program isn't that bad, they give you a new ECU, but you pay for new keys and a stamp.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD

Last edited by jasonm4; 06-12-2013 at 07:36 PM.
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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 10:41 AM
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OMG! This happened to me last night and I almost $h!t my pants. I had a weird scenario where the security light would blink with the key in the ignition and the car won't start, but after a few tries of inserting and removing the key it would eventually recognize the key and start the car.

One additional note; Check for the CEL light when your key is in the ACC position. The CEL will only appear if the ecu recognizes the key transponder.

Just as I was about to call in to re-flash the ecu today, I decided to go back to the basics of troubleshooting. I unplugged the negative battery for a good 5 minutes just for good measure. During this time I checked all the fuses related to the ecu at all 3 locations by manually pulling them and visually checking, and they all came back good. After plugging the neg back in, I was very fortunate that it started working again. The ecu recognized the key and the car started right away.

Moral of the story... go back to the basics before jumping into conclusions. It saved me some money.
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post #38 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkaosone View Post
OMG! This happened to me last night and I almost $h!t my pants. I had a weird scenario where the security light would blink with the key in the ignition and the car won't start, but after a few tries of inserting and removing the key it would eventually recognize the key and start the car.

One additional note; Check for the CEL light when your key is in the ACC position. The CEL will only appear if the ecu recognizes the key transponder.

Just as I was about to call in to re-flash the ecu today, I decided to go back to the basics of troubleshooting. I unplugged the negative battery for a good 5 minutes just for good measure. During this time I checked all the fuses related to the ecu at all 3 locations by manually pulling them and visually checking, and they all came back good. After plugging the neg back in, I was very fortunate that it started working again. The ecu recognized the key and the car started right away.

Moral of the story... go back to the basics before jumping into conclusions. It saved me some money.
Normally key fob issues won't give you a CEL but typically cause the security led to blink when it doesn't recognize the chip. Are you sure the CEL isn't related to something else and you disconnecting the battery didn't simply erase the CEL? The immobilizer or transponder amplifier(ring around the ignition cylinder) has to detect the key chip.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #39 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 11:33 AM
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Are you sure the CEL isn't related to something else and you disconnecting the battery didn't simply erase the CEL?
Let me try to clarify, I don't have any CEL codes prior or after the battery pull. I was referring to the Check Engine Light (CEL) icon on the dashboard. The CEL light appears when you have the key in the ACC position whether or not you have any codes. And in my case, I noticed that my car only starts during this hiccup when the CEL icon appeared on the dashboard. When it wasn't working the security light will blink when the key is in at any position, and when it was in the ACC position the CEL icon wasn't appearing and the sec light was blinking.
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post #40 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 01:42 PM
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Yes, the CEL(check engine light icon) should come on every time the car is cycled from car off to ACC(for a second, as with ALL the other indicators). It's a self test and the ECU powering up. It sounds like when your key fob wasn't recognized then your cluster wouldn't display the CEL or deactivate the immobilizer. And yes, when the key doesn't recognize the key the led will remain flashing and you will be able to crank but the car won't start.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #41 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 08:23 AM
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I have a 2001 and a working master key, what do I need to do to program a second key? Are there instructions posted for doing this myself? I have another (master) key that isnt for this car but is the same style, can I transfer the remote parts from that key into a new blank, have that cut and then have it programmed?
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post #42 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-29-2013, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dat2109 View Post
I have a 2001 and a working master key, what do I need to do to program a second key? Are there instructions posted for doing this myself? I have another (master) key that isnt for this car but is the same style, can I transfer the remote parts from that key into a new blank, have that cut and then have it programmed?
Since you have a master key then you can follow these instructions to add additional keys and is a diy...
https://my.is/forums/f53/01-05-lexus-...ctions-407990/

I'm pretty sure as long as it's a Lexus IS300 key it should be able to be reprogrammed to your existing master once you get into "initialization" mode. As you mentioned, the guts will have to be transferred over to a new key and it needs cut prior to the programming.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #43 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 06:19 AM
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tired of this valet key... I just found a ecu and key fob for a good price. what do I need in order to install this and have it work properly? simple plug and play? Can I attach my valet to this key fob? Don't really care that I can't open my trunk or glove box with it.


-Mike
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post #44 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MY2J View Post
tired of this valet key... I just found a ecu and key fob for a good price. what do I need in order to install this and have it work properly? simple plug and play? Can I attach my valet to this key fob? Don't really care that I can't open my trunk or glove box with it.

Hey Mike, all you will need to do is buy a new master key shell fob(eBay $10), have it cut like your other key, then since you have the buttons it will be a plug and play providing that button/chip is programmed for that ECU. No reflash needed as the immobilizer chip is in that button assembly. Since the new master fob is already programmed to the new ECU, you will just need to reprogram your valet yourself. So I would get a shell for that transponder first, have it cut and you should be good to add your existing valet with the diy instructions.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #45 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 12:51 PM
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sweet! thanks bro

-Mike
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