Car stalling with hot outside temps - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2012, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Car stalling with hot outside temps

My engine is currently stalling (probably once a week) when the temps go above 70-80. I have never experienced any issues when the outside temp is below these temps. I first noticed it last summer and went through the whole winter with no issues. At the time it probably would only happen once a month. However, now it seems like the problem is becoming more frequent. Also, I should mention that this only seems to happen when the engine is fully warmed up. I want to think fuel pump or a bad connection but I would think these problems would happen all the time/at any temperature (both outside and engine).

Since it may help track down the problem, I'll explain exactly what happened to me today. I was driving for about 10 minutes and decided to pull off the road into a neighborhood. As I slowed down and was turning the wheel I noticed I had lost power steering and sure enough the engine was dead. I fired it back up to move off the road and got about 20 ft before it stalled out again. I decided to take the key out and wait a bit so my ECU would reset (I have a PFS turbo system that does this). At this point my gas was low so I went about a block to gas up. After that, I fire it up again and get about .5 mile before it stalled on me again (probably going 10mph with no throttle being applied). From that point I didn't experience any more stalling but the RPMs would drop down to 0 (below 250 at least) and then would climb back up (I was applying throttle during these times though). Also, it seems to get progressively better as I was driving and seemed fine about 5 minutes after the last episode.

Any ideas on what could be wrong would be appreciated.

Ray Wilson Tuned
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2012, 02:22 PM
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I wonder if your alternator is getting heat soaked and not producing a good charge when the engine is at operating temp. Can you verify the battery has a good charge and the alt is keeping a charge of 13.2-14.8vdc while at idle. I would also clean your MAF, throttle body, and underneath the plate on top of the throttle body. It seem like your problems are when your rpm's are low. Does your charging malfunction indicator or CEL come on?

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-30-2012, 10:53 PM
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Check engine ground. I had the exact same problem on my AE86 years ago.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I'm doubting this is a heat problem. It happened again tonight with 70 degree outside temps with the engine only slightly warm. I'll check out the ground tomorrow.

Ray Wilson Tuned
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 03:28 AM
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No CEL? Battery terminals are clean and tight? Has the battery been tested lately? If the car is losing power and shutting down, it's more likely due to a poor charging system or even ignition wires may be grounding out. It could very well be your oil control valve as well. If that valve gets sticky, it will want to stall out at idle but at higher rpms it runs ok.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
No CEL? Battery terminals are clean and tight? Has the battery been tested lately? If the car is losing power and shutting down, it's more likely due to a poor charging system or even ignition wires may be grounding out. It could very well be your oil control valve as well. If that valve gets sticky, it will want to stall out at idle but at higher rpms it runs ok.
Thanks for the help!

No CEL right now but I have the PFS module that resets the ECU each startup so that's expected. The CEL turns on when the car stalls but that's the only time I see it.
The battery is brand new (January) and this issue was also somewhat occurring last summer. The terminals could use a cleaning though and I will get to that eventually. As far as the oil control valve, I'm not too familiar with it. The car has 65k miles on it so I'm not sure if that would would fail this early or not.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to give an update on the car: As I said, this issue of the engine randomly dying has been an extremely intermittent problem. I probably have had this issue occur 4 or 5 times since the spring (warmer temps). However, last night seemed to deviate from the pattern. The same issue happened again but this time I was really struggling from keeping the RPMs up/preventing a stall. I got it home and decided to check on it the next day. Today, the issue was still quite apparent. In fact, I could barely put it into drive without it stalling out almost immediately. Pressing down on the gas only seemed to make it worse. It would last probably 10-20 seconds in park before stalling out.

I decided to inspect the engine bay to look for lose hoses/wires. Nothing to be found. However, upon checking the coolant the level seemed very low (not completely empty but almost there). I found this thread with similar issues: https://my.is/forums/f87/odd-battery-...-issue-437345/ I filled up the coolant and now it ran fine during the quick trip around the block.

I'm inclined to believe that the coolant was not root cause of my previous issues since I know for a fact that the level was fine last summer. I'd definitely be open to any input on the matter though! Thanks.

Ray Wilson Tuned
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 04:54 PM
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Yea, when the car shuts off the CEL and other indicators on the dash come on because ignition is still on. Low coolant won't shut the engine off, so we can rule that out. Do you use conventional oil? If so, i would be more inclined to have you test your oil control valve. Does the car get better if you give it throttle(or above 3000 rpms? I wonder if your PFS is erasing any codes that pop up. You may want to disconnect the device until this problem is solved. Just a thought.

'02 IS300 MSM LSD
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 01:38 PM
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try cleaning your MAS. I had mas issues on all sorts of cars.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 03:57 PM
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MAS or more commonly referred to as the MAF Sensor.

What could be happening is the MAF might be dirty, in this situation the MAF reads less air than is actually getting into the engine creating a leaner than desireable condition. When the engine and airtemps get warm it can simply get too lean and flame out.

Go to your local parts store and get a can of this....

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 04:10 PM
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MAF cleaner is the best route, but you can use CRC electronic contact cleaner. Used it for years, plastic safe and leaves no residue.


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-23-2012, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -Tom- View Post
MAS or more commonly referred to as the MAF Sensor.

What could be happening is the MAF might be dirty, in this situation the MAF reads less air than is actually getting into the engine creating a leaner than desireable condition. When the engine and airtemps get warm it can simply get too lean and flame out.

Go to your local parts store and get a can of this....
Yeah I tried that when these issues started occurring. I never noticed any change in the frequency of the problem.

It seems like the two big correlations right now are bumpy roads and higher outside temps. That makes me think its a loose wire/connection. The oil valve suggestion sounds plausible as well.

Ray Wilson Tuned
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