01 IS300 with a p0440 (pic) - Page 3 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #31 of 49 (permalink) Old 02-27-2012, 03:34 PM
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Could this be the reason why I'm getting the code?

http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e...20220-1354.jpg
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post #32 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-13-2012, 02:43 AM
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Thanks for following up and letting us know what solved the problem.

I'm still trying to figure out my p0440 code and am now past due on smog.

I've replaced my gas cap with a brand new from the dealership and inspected some of the EVAP hoses to no avail. A mechanic said I should replace the vapor pressure sensor (SENSOR ASSY, VAPOR PRESSURE. ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM for LEXUS (8946053010)), but I don't think that's the problem.

I'm thinking I should just take the car into a trusted Lexus mechanic and be done with it.


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Originally Posted by AbyssalCreation View Post
I thought i would report back about the car. Check engine light is gone, its been smogged and registered as well :-)

To summarize what happened... My car was throwing p0440 code which has something to do with the EVAP system. The car wasnt able to pass smog with this code so i asked around and a few friends that work at the lexus dealership in town suggest changing the rollover valve which is located above the fuel tank.

Upon further investigation i found that lexus doesnt call it the "Rollover Valve" but instead they call it a "Fuel Tank Overfill Check Valve." The fuel tank needs to be dropped to get to the part per the service manual. I had some estimates on how much the dealer would charge and it came to around $700.

I was looking at the blueprint for the fuel tank and found exactly where the valve is located and basically its off to passenger side of the hump under the back seat. The bottom of the backseat needed to be removed just like when youre doing a fuel pump. I sawzalled a hole big enough to get to the part, not a complete hole but just enough to flap open. I replaced it and put sound deadener on top of the hole. I would not suggest doing it this way since i did come really close to cutting a rubber fuel line, so please dont be a noob like me. I know its ghetto but i was on a deadline and wanted to get the car on the road immediately for the least amount of money possible. Interior noise hasn't increased whatsoever if anyone is wondering.

Im really glad to say all is well with the car now and i only used oem parts from the dealer. Decided to change the gas cap as well since the car has 210k miles.

Heres the part #'s just in case someone needs them.

7739053010 - Fuel tank overfill check valve

7717712020 - Gasket for overfill check valve

7730008010 - Gas cap!
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post #33 of 49 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 07:54 PM
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i am 99% sure it is the fuel tank overfill check valve.. it is verry hard to change or at least time consuming... before i fixed it i passed smog doing this: i bought a tester from walmart and erased the code, drove like 50 miles untill everything set besides the EVAP system . smog can pass even if one or 2 systems dont set. i waited till my catalitic set and only EVAP was blinking and then stopped at the smog place and smoged it and passed like a champ. i did this with a full tank of gas and the evap wount set unless u drive from 3/4 to 1/4 of a tank or something like that, usually it takes from 100 to 200 miles for the CEL to come on from a p0440. after that i fixed the problem anyway cuz the light was anoying. i did this in california and it is one of the worst smog controlled states from what i know... hope this helps somebody
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post #34 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbyssalCreation View Post
I thought i would report back about the car. Check engine light is gone, its been smogged and registered as well :-)

To summarize what happened... My car was throwing p0440 code which has something to do with the EVAP system. The car wasnt able to pass smog with this code so i asked around and a few friends that work at the lexus dealership in town suggest changing the rollover valve which is located above the fuel tank.

Upon further investigation i found that lexus doesnt call it the "Rollover Valve" but instead they call it a "Fuel Tank Overfill Check Valve." The fuel tank needs to be dropped to get to the part per the service manual. I had some estimates on how much the dealer would charge and it came to around $700.

I was looking at the blueprint for the fuel tank and found exactly where the valve is located and basically its off to passenger side of the hump under the back seat. The bottom of the backseat needed to be removed just like when youre doing a fuel pump. I sawzalled a hole big enough to get to the part, not a complete hole but just enough to flap open. I replaced it and put sound deadener on top of the hole. I would not suggest doing it this way since i did come really close to cutting a rubber fuel line, so please dont be a noob like me. I know its ghetto but i was on a deadline and wanted to get the car on the road immediately for the least amount of money possible. Interior noise hasn't increased whatsoever if anyone is wondering.

Im really glad to say all is well with the car now and i only used oem parts from the dealer. Decided to change the gas cap as well since the car has 210k miles.

Heres the part #'s just in case someone needs them.

7739053010 - Fuel tank overfill check valve

7717712020 - Gasket for overfill check valve

7730008010 - Gas cap!
Just to confirm that this is a common problem I replaced these three parts this past weekend and my codes didn't come back up with all i/m readiness monitors ok

02 MSM e-shift/LSD/srt intake/obx down pipe/H&R springs/Koni Yellows/Tuned Rigid Bars/ichiba/
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post #35 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-27-2013, 02:45 PM
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oh god, I just got this code and same exact symptoms... well looks like I will have to do this fix... good thing I don't got smog till jan. Funny thing is this happened right after I filled up my gas tank at shell... and after 30 miles... LOL!!

P.S. Thanks to all who posted the info, symptoms, and fixes.
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post #36 of 49 (permalink) Old 11-07-2013, 03:55 PM
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Thanks for all the posts - saved me $$$

Thanks to everyone who has posted about this problem. I got the P0440 code a few years ago and have been limping along with the whole reset a day before my emissions test. That worked great until my charcoal canister went out. I just replaced the canister and have been annoyed with this long enough that I decided to do something about it.

I had a trusted dealer replace the canister with a used one I pickup up on Ebay. That worked great - I replaced the gas cap and the mechanic also smoked the whole system and verified that I had no other problems, so the CEL must be the overfill check valve.

I didn't want to pay to drop the tank, so I bit the bullet and decided to cut a hole under the seat. Instead of a sawzall, I went for some pneumatic metal shears. I bought some for $40 - it was easy and safe. I'd do it again in a heart beat.

Here are some pics that may help someone else tackle this problem:

Back seat removed.


I guessed on where to drill the first hole.


I drilled a second hole right next to it, then used the shears to cut the metal. It was like a hot knife through butter. Literally took 3 seconds, no sparks, little penetration, no resistance.


As you can see, the location was perfect! Thanks for the diagram!

Some notes: in order to get to one of the screws, I drilled another hole that I stuck the screw driver through instead of cutting another flap. That worked perfectly. You'll know what I mean if you try this yourself.

Finally, in order to close this back up, I used JB Weld which turned out very strong and holds it very well. While it's not necessary and there may be other ways to seal it easily, if I were doing this again I would get some aluminum tape and a screw. I would put the tape inside the hole before closing the flap, poke a hole in the tape with a screw to hold the tape strong to the flap as I close it, then apply the JB Weld to the crack over the tape. This would give a nice clean seal. Either way, as is my seal was so strong, it is as strong as it was before the surgery, and it may be stronger.

I could visibly see the crack in my original valve, so I know this needed to be done. It's been a week and a half with no CEL, so I'm confident it's all fixed up.

This repair took me about an hour and a half of actual work time because I tried several things that didn't work to re-seal the flap. If I were doing it again with the instructions above, I could do the whole thing in less than an hour, easy. Plan on 15 minutes after you apply the JB Weld for it to set, but it won't be hard for 12 hours or so. I started driving shorty after I applied it and it was fine. I dropped my back seat in the next day after it was as hard as steel.

In the end, I got the whole thing done in a few hours, for less than $100 out of pocket (including buying the parts and the metal shears). I'd do it again in a heartbeat if I needed to.

Thanks again for all the posts about this.
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Last edited by ziocam; 11-07-2013 at 04:01 PM.
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post #37 of 49 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013, 05:27 PM
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Very good instructions for the changing of the fuel tank overfill check valve. Nice job, thank you. I have been trying this myself but have gotten stuck. I managed to get the hole cut and reached the check valve but I could not disconnect the big connector hose. Is there a way to disconnect the connector that is connected to the check valve? I know you have to pinch somewhere to disconnect it but I don't know where to pinch. Where do I pinch. Can you recommend a specific tool? I just don't want to damage the connector. Any suggestions you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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post #38 of 49 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Is there a way to disconnect the connector that is connected to the check valve? I know you have to pinch somewhere to disconnect it but I don't know where to pinch. Where do I pinch. Can you recommend a specific tool?
Ya, this was the hardest part of actually changing the valve. Of the two hoses, one was very easy to disconnect. I did that one first. Then I actually pulled the valve off the tank and twisted it so I could see the fatter hose connection and clips. If you look at your replacement valve, the fatter connection has a rib around it. The connector hose will be inserted up to that line, and 2 clips grab the rib to hold it in place.

In order to separate the valve from the hose, I put on gloves to protect my hands from the sharp metal, used two very small flat head screwdrivers inserted along the protruding hose connector on the valve, toward the tube, to the point that they touched the rib, releasing the clips. This didn't do much, so I crammed one in on top and another on bottom at the same time to release both clips, then I held the hose with one hand and the valve with the other and twisted it back and forth while pulling. I really had to give it some muscle, but it did come free and eventually popped off.

I then removed the screwdrivers, and inserted the new valve into the hose, applying pressure and again twisting back and forth. This is a very tight connection, so I just worked it until the hose hit the rib on the tube. Once it was there, I twisted it around and made sure it would mount back on the tank properly, then I re-attached the smaller hose and inserted the screws to mount the valve.

I recall looking at the hose while it was off and thinking that while it looks like it's a "pinch here to release the tabs" type connection, it's really not. I don't think there is a way you can pinch it to release those tabs. I got pretty rough with mine with the screwdrivers, and that didn't cause any problems, so that's what I recommend you do as well.

Good luck to you! (Oh, and take pictures to help whoever tries this next.)

Last edited by ziocam; 11-12-2013 at 05:56 PM.
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post #39 of 49 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013, 06:06 PM
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Thanks for the pics! ^ Finally my CEL will be gone :-)

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
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post #40 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 02:13 PM
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Ok guys I can confirm that this short cut does work, as long as you make sure to seal any gaps when you put the metal back together. I used dynamat to create an air tight seal and looks like nothing was ever cut . Now as far as the big hose goes there are two little teeth that need to pushed away from the hose for it come out. Was a little tricky at first but dont worry youll get it. Putting it back in requires the teeth to grab the valve again, not too difficult.

Only warning is when cutting make sure you dont cut too deep towards the rear of the car, there is a black fuel line. BE VERY CAREFUL. I only used a power tool to make the first hole towards the front of the car. After that I used a metal cutter that was strong enough. Then I bent the metal away from the valve. Overall i am stasfied, the smell of fuel is gone, and the codes (P0440, P0446) have not come back. I packed the dynamat in nicely, so it looks like nothing was ever done.

Dont be intimidated by cutting, save yourself some money, as long as you know what your doing and follow this thread you will be OK.
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post #41 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 02:29 PM
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I'm with you. Your pics helped, exactly what I did too and it got rid of my P0440. I've driven about 700 miles since and everything good. I opened it slightly different but it works! I'll post pics shortly.

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

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post #42 of 49 (permalink) Old 01-24-2015, 04:59 PM
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I drilled small holes all the way around using a small spade drill bit..careful, only put the tip in
I was afraid of hitting something underneath, so I got a flathead and hit it horizontally. It would slightly break in between the holes easily. I wanted there to be metal to metal contact when sealing it. Putting it back together was a bit challenging bc it was such a tight fit, and it had to be perfectly leveled. I sealed it with marine JB weld. If anyone does this, you can also vacuum the dirt around the valve before you remove it. You'll be thankful you did.

I was on a short deadline to do my smog. I wasn't able to pass by resetting the ecu. The ecu monitor on the scanner wasn't ready, and by the time it was ready my CEL was back.


The crack on the valve, it had another smaller one on the other side.

No creaks, no gas fumes in the cabin, and no CEL

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

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Last edited by mm71522; 01-24-2015 at 05:10 PM.
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post #43 of 49 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 09:32 AM
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Thanks for all of the help. I did this repair yesterday and made a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4DeV8X7Rf8
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post #44 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-05-2015, 11:55 AM
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I had to do this repair too.

The rollover valve hold down plate uses 8mm or phillips head bolts, 6 of them.


Out of curiosity, who has just epoxied the crack instead of replacing the valve? (they are all cracked in the same place, right on the top edge)
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post #45 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-05-2015, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dat2109 View Post

Out of curiosity, who has just epoxied the crack instead of replacing the valve? (they are all cracked in the same place, right on the top edge)
Hopefully no one lol Its just a $35 part including the gasket.

Mike
'02 AR IS300; M98 L-Tuned
TOKICO HP/TANABE NF210

ENKEI KOJIN 18X8.5+35/9.5+30
---------------------------------
DIY: Nav+Aftermarket HU
DIY: Timing Belt

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