R154 – THE Ultimate Auto to Manual Swap Info Thread
(Please do not send us any PMs about parts or the process unless you must. It's better to post any questions or comments on here so anyone who reads this thread can benefit from them.)
Well, I FINALLY finished my R154 swap on my auto. The swap itself only took us 3 days (Friday, Saturday, and today Monday). And we only needed to wait until today to finish because I overlooked a few parts and needed to wait until today to get those so we could finish up. Otherwise, this swap can easily be done in a day-and-a-half, two days with the correct planning and research to avoid all surprises.
It was mainly the planning process that took so long. I guess a combination of me choosing to go boost first, which I did back in July. And between work and travel and saving up, etc., I didn't finish gathering everything until this month.
I definitely must give credit to all those who posted R154 swap threads on this forum, because that's basically how I got almost all of my info.
A few months ago another local member and I were both gathering parts for this swap. We both have '01 automatics (now i guess i can say i HAD an '01 auto ;-)), so we basically ended up planning this whole thing together. This really helped because he knew a hell of a lot more about many specifics than I did, and on Saturday when I realized how much crap I was missing, I was lucky enough to have him lend me a few last parts since he already had them. In other words, I would have been F*CKED without the extra planning and info he gathered that I had overlooked.
Another reason it took so long was because there was never just one place where we found all of our info. We found a ton of extremely helpful threads, but never one place will ALL the info. I guess it was because everyone's swap can be unique given all the different things you can choose from (trannies, clutch setups, driveshafts). So since we ended up having to look in a hundred places to gather all the info we needed, we decided to make this thread which will include EVERYTHING you will need to swap an R154 manual into your automatic IS. (most of this info should be useful for ANY auto to manual swap. i guess just a little research will help you separate what you need from this list and what you dont if you're going with a different manual tranny (V160, W58, etc.))
1) To start, you obviously need an R154. There's a few different one's out there, we have two different ones. (can range from $400 to $1300, NOT including 1JZ bellhousing).
LO 21 - '94+ Soarer/Chaser with remote shifter assembly
(what a damn GORGEOUS tranny)
DC5ROY - same as '86-'92 mkIII supra turbo, but directly from Japan already with 1J bellhousing. '92 SC300 shifter recommended (part # below).
2) You need to choose a clutch setup. We each went with something different.
LO 21 - ACT TS2-HDG6 6 puck sprung, rated to about 522 ft-lb of torque (retail $750. can easily be found for about $600 shipped. a bit of a heavier clutch pedal feel, but not even close to as bad as i thought it would be, no chatter whatsoever, decent engagement considering clutch hasn't been broken in yet. after a few drives it was engaging smooth as stock )
DC5ROY - OS Giken Twin Disc with Pull-to-Push assembly (will update with a review once installed)
3) We both chose a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft from The Driveshaft Shop (Great! Definitely worth it. No noise or rattle. Extremely more responsive than stock). You could also choose a 1-piece steel one, or have one custom made and balanced either 1-piece or have the front part of your stock one custom extended.
4) You will need tranny fluid. We both went with Redline MTL (you will need 4 quarts, about $50) which is the one that we concluded works best with the R154s (whereas Royal Purple has been known to work well with V160s?)
5) For performance IS's, it is recommended to remove the Clutch Dampening Device (CDD) to reduce that "soft", "slipping" feeling of the clutch. It's the rather hefty hexagonally shaped line union just off of the master cylinder. It should probably be replaced with a regular line union. At a parts store that sells brake line unions, the that fits is the Brass Tite Part #: 43512, 3/16" tube, M10-1.0 thread. Should cost about $2.50.
6) The R154s will sit a bit lower than your stock tranny, so the crossmember wont bolt up flush with the frame of the car. Some people have reported to have had to add spacers and drill new holes in the frame. I guess I got lucky on how my tranny lined up. All I had to do was add some steel washers (5 for each bolt) and found some of the same 12mm bolts but about 1" longer laying around the shop and bolted the crossmember to the existing holes.
7) We HIGHLY recommend making sure you have absolutely everything you need before you start this project to minimize the downtime your car will have. That way you also wont have to run around your city for a few days looking for the rest of the parts or waiting for things to show up in the mail.
8) And the rest of the stuff you need is all Lexus/Toyota Stuff.
Below is each part # you will need with an estimated RETAIL-ish price. Actual retail prices might be a bit more, wholesale price if you have a local dealer that will sell you at those prices might be a bit less. Or, you could also contact Jeff at Champion Toyota in Houston, Texas or Carson Toyota in California for decent prices.
BRAKE PEDAL & BRACKET
Break Pedal Sub-Assy 47106-53010 $108.75
Break Pedal Pad 31321-53010 $26.12
CONSOLE BOX & BRACKET
Shifting Hole Cover Sub-Assy 58808-53020-c0 $117.96
Console Upper Panel Sub-Assy 58804-53011-c0 $115.51
CLUTCH PEDAL & FLEXIBLE HOSE
Clutch Pedal Sub-Assy 31301-53050 $52.10
Spring (For clutch pedal) 90949-03119 $2.26
Cushion No. 1 90541-06036 $2.91
Bush (For clutch Pedal) 90386-13015 $4.38
Nut (For clutch pedal stopper) 94130-01001 $0.89
Bush (For clutch Pedal turnover) 90389-06055 $2.03
Compression Spring 90949-03111 $14.76
Clutch Pedal Pad 31321-53010 $26.12
Clutch Pedal Shaft 90101-10015 $1.08
Clutch Pedal Shaft Collar 90387-10003 $4.73
Clutch Pedal Spring Holder 31353-35010 $11.52
Pin (for Clutch master cylinder push rod) 90240-08006 $1.80
Bush (for Clutch master cylinder push rod) 90386-08036 $2.31
Clutch Master cylinder to flexible hose tube 31481-53060 $9.61
Clutch No.1 Hose 90947-02c83 $41.05
Clutch Master cylinder to 2 way tube 31481-53051 $15.26
Clutch Release cylinder to flexible hose tube 31482-53030 $7.47
Flexible Hose Bracket 31484-53040 $9.28
Clutch Pedal Support Sub-Assy 55107-53030 $55.18
Ring 90082-61005 $1.62
Washer 90206-08001 $0.98
Bush 90386-08036 $2.31
Clip 90468-16142 $0.95
Washer 94622-11000 $1.42
Bolt 90080-11497 $0.77
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
Clutch Master Cylinder Assy 31410-53020 $87.60
(the following is a breakdown of the
individual parts, the above assembly will
come with all of these already assembled)
Clutch Master Cylinder Kit 04311-12110 $26.93
Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir Sub-Assy 31402-22020 $36.61
Clutch Reservoir Grommet 31417-35010 $2.18
Clutch Master Cyl Reservoir Float 31426-22020 $3.80
Clutch Master Cyl Reservoir Filler Cap Assy 47230-20040 $10.43
TRANSMISSION STUFF
1JZ-GTE R154 Bell Housing 31111-14110 $350.00
Flywheel Inspection Cover - L 31101-14010 $64.68
Flywheel Inspection Cover - R 31102-14010 $64.68
Flywheel Inspection Cover Gasket - L 31122-14010 $4.78
Flywheel Inspection Cover Gasket - R 31124-14010 $4.78
Flywheel Inspection Cover Bolts - L 90080-11228 $1.66 (qty. 2)
Flywheel Inspection Cover Bolts - R 91661-40814 $2.46 (qty. 2)
Bellhousing bolts 91611-61045 $11.07 (qty. 9)
Transmission Shift Fork 31204-14031 $55.72
Transmission Shift Fork Hook ??? ???
Lexus 1992 SC300 Shifter 33530-24040 $136.04
Supra mkIII Slave Cylinder 31470-14050 $51.71
Rear Tailshaft Oil Seal 90311-40001 $9.54
CLUTCH STUFF
1JZ-GTE Flywheel 13405-46030 $248.91
Flywheel Bolts 90910-02103 $52.56 (qty. 8)
Clutch-to-Flywheel Bolts ??? ??? (qty. 6)
Clutch Hub Release Bearing 90363-45012 $26.81
Throw Out (Pilot Bearing) 90363-12002-77 $5.42
BIG Bearing ??? ???
Snap Ring 96152-00450 $2.15
Plate Washer 90201-71001 $1.24
Wave Washer 90206-72001 $1.01
Shaft Snap Ring 90520-67001 $2.75
Washer 90201-45023 $1.96
Clutch Spring Pin 31264-14040 $14.09
LABOR
(this is an estimate. obviously you may just do this yourself. or have a buddy do it. or have a shop quote you something less. this is totally up to you.)
Labor $1,500.00
GRAND TOTAL: ABOUT $5,950. I personally did it for about $4,500 including EVERYTHING. Depending on which R154 you choose, what clutch setup you go with, whether you go with all new parts or (somehow) find used parts, and what you get charged for install, these numbers can VASTLY vary.
We hold absolutely no responsibility if you buy parts that you didn't end up needing or if you mess something up following our guidelines. This is basically just a compilation of all the info we ended up gathering over the past few months either from past members who did similar swaps or from personal research.
WIRING
this is for '01's. I'm almost certain that this is not the same for '02+ IS's (mainly since our '01 IS's draw a speed signal from the ABS, so nothing needed to be wired for that ).
There will be 3 plugs that you unplug from the auto tranny. One of them will have 9 wires coming out of it. THIS IS THE ONLY ONE YOU NEED TO MESS WITH. If I remember correctly, the wires come out of some little circles, some are smaller circles (yellow ones), some are larger circles(red ones).
:::For the starter, take the two wires coming out of the 2 larger red circles (its a solid black wire and a black/white wire), cut them and splice them TO EACH OTHER.
:::For the reverse lights to work, my tranny had two wires coming out of the side, a red one and a white one. on the SAME plug where you spliced the two black wired, there will be two red wires. splice these two red wires to the two wires coming out of the tranny (this may be different depending on which R154 you get and what condition its in. unfortunately i can only contribute how my specific wire setup was.)
*if for any reason your wires are different colors or your IS is a different year, all we did was hook up a multimeter to the battery and stuck the little probe into each hole until the reverse lights came on.
AND YES, WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE, THE LITTLE "R" IN MY DASH LIGHTS UP ORANGE LIKE IT USED TO, WHICH IS SWEEEET!!
(Please do not send us any PMs about parts or the process unless you must. It's better to post any questions or comments on here so anyone who reads this thread can benefit from them.)
Well, I FINALLY finished my R154 swap on my auto. The swap itself only took us 3 days (Friday, Saturday, and today Monday). And we only needed to wait until today to finish because I overlooked a few parts and needed to wait until today to get those so we could finish up. Otherwise, this swap can easily be done in a day-and-a-half, two days with the correct planning and research to avoid all surprises.
It was mainly the planning process that took so long. I guess a combination of me choosing to go boost first, which I did back in July. And between work and travel and saving up, etc., I didn't finish gathering everything until this month.
I definitely must give credit to all those who posted R154 swap threads on this forum, because that's basically how I got almost all of my info.
A few months ago another local member and I were both gathering parts for this swap. We both have '01 automatics (now i guess i can say i HAD an '01 auto ;-)), so we basically ended up planning this whole thing together. This really helped because he knew a hell of a lot more about many specifics than I did, and on Saturday when I realized how much crap I was missing, I was lucky enough to have him lend me a few last parts since he already had them. In other words, I would have been F*CKED without the extra planning and info he gathered that I had overlooked.
Another reason it took so long was because there was never just one place where we found all of our info. We found a ton of extremely helpful threads, but never one place will ALL the info. I guess it was because everyone's swap can be unique given all the different things you can choose from (trannies, clutch setups, driveshafts). So since we ended up having to look in a hundred places to gather all the info we needed, we decided to make this thread which will include EVERYTHING you will need to swap an R154 manual into your automatic IS. (most of this info should be useful for ANY auto to manual swap. i guess just a little research will help you separate what you need from this list and what you dont if you're going with a different manual tranny (V160, W58, etc.))
1) To start, you obviously need an R154. There's a few different one's out there, we have two different ones. (can range from $400 to $1300, NOT including 1JZ bellhousing).
LO 21 - '94+ Soarer/Chaser with remote shifter assembly
(what a damn GORGEOUS tranny)
DC5ROY - same as '86-'92 mkIII supra turbo, but directly from Japan already with 1J bellhousing. '92 SC300 shifter recommended (part # below).
2) You need to choose a clutch setup. We each went with something different.
LO 21 - ACT TS2-HDG6 6 puck sprung, rated to about 522 ft-lb of torque (retail $750. can easily be found for about $600 shipped. a bit of a heavier clutch pedal feel, but not even close to as bad as i thought it would be, no chatter whatsoever, decent engagement considering clutch hasn't been broken in yet. after a few drives it was engaging smooth as stock )
DC5ROY - OS Giken Twin Disc with Pull-to-Push assembly (will update with a review once installed)
3) We both chose a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft from The Driveshaft Shop (Great! Definitely worth it. No noise or rattle. Extremely more responsive than stock). You could also choose a 1-piece steel one, or have one custom made and balanced either 1-piece or have the front part of your stock one custom extended.
4) You will need tranny fluid. We both went with Redline MTL (you will need 4 quarts, about $50) which is the one that we concluded works best with the R154s (whereas Royal Purple has been known to work well with V160s?)
5) For performance IS's, it is recommended to remove the Clutch Dampening Device (CDD) to reduce that "soft", "slipping" feeling of the clutch. It's the rather hefty hexagonally shaped line union just off of the master cylinder. It should probably be replaced with a regular line union. At a parts store that sells brake line unions, the that fits is the Brass Tite Part #: 43512, 3/16" tube, M10-1.0 thread. Should cost about $2.50.
6) The R154s will sit a bit lower than your stock tranny, so the crossmember wont bolt up flush with the frame of the car. Some people have reported to have had to add spacers and drill new holes in the frame. I guess I got lucky on how my tranny lined up. All I had to do was add some steel washers (5 for each bolt) and found some of the same 12mm bolts but about 1" longer laying around the shop and bolted the crossmember to the existing holes.
7) We HIGHLY recommend making sure you have absolutely everything you need before you start this project to minimize the downtime your car will have. That way you also wont have to run around your city for a few days looking for the rest of the parts or waiting for things to show up in the mail.
8) And the rest of the stuff you need is all Lexus/Toyota Stuff.
Below is each part # you will need with an estimated RETAIL-ish price. Actual retail prices might be a bit more, wholesale price if you have a local dealer that will sell you at those prices might be a bit less. Or, you could also contact Jeff at Champion Toyota in Houston, Texas or Carson Toyota in California for decent prices.
BRAKE PEDAL & BRACKET
Break Pedal Sub-Assy 47106-53010 $108.75
Break Pedal Pad 31321-53010 $26.12
CONSOLE BOX & BRACKET
Shifting Hole Cover Sub-Assy 58808-53020-c0 $117.96
Console Upper Panel Sub-Assy 58804-53011-c0 $115.51
CLUTCH PEDAL & FLEXIBLE HOSE
Clutch Pedal Sub-Assy 31301-53050 $52.10
Spring (For clutch pedal) 90949-03119 $2.26
Cushion No. 1 90541-06036 $2.91
Bush (For clutch Pedal) 90386-13015 $4.38
Nut (For clutch pedal stopper) 94130-01001 $0.89
Bush (For clutch Pedal turnover) 90389-06055 $2.03
Compression Spring 90949-03111 $14.76
Clutch Pedal Pad 31321-53010 $26.12
Clutch Pedal Shaft 90101-10015 $1.08
Clutch Pedal Shaft Collar 90387-10003 $4.73
Clutch Pedal Spring Holder 31353-35010 $11.52
Pin (for Clutch master cylinder push rod) 90240-08006 $1.80
Bush (for Clutch master cylinder push rod) 90386-08036 $2.31
Clutch Master cylinder to flexible hose tube 31481-53060 $9.61
Clutch No.1 Hose 90947-02c83 $41.05
Clutch Master cylinder to 2 way tube 31481-53051 $15.26
Clutch Release cylinder to flexible hose tube 31482-53030 $7.47
Flexible Hose Bracket 31484-53040 $9.28
Clutch Pedal Support Sub-Assy 55107-53030 $55.18
Ring 90082-61005 $1.62
Washer 90206-08001 $0.98
Bush 90386-08036 $2.31
Clip 90468-16142 $0.95
Washer 94622-11000 $1.42
Bolt 90080-11497 $0.77
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
Clutch Master Cylinder Assy 31410-53020 $87.60
(the following is a breakdown of the
individual parts, the above assembly will
come with all of these already assembled)
Clutch Master Cylinder Kit 04311-12110 $26.93
Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir Sub-Assy 31402-22020 $36.61
Clutch Reservoir Grommet 31417-35010 $2.18
Clutch Master Cyl Reservoir Float 31426-22020 $3.80
Clutch Master Cyl Reservoir Filler Cap Assy 47230-20040 $10.43
TRANSMISSION STUFF
1JZ-GTE R154 Bell Housing 31111-14110 $350.00
Flywheel Inspection Cover - L 31101-14010 $64.68
Flywheel Inspection Cover - R 31102-14010 $64.68
Flywheel Inspection Cover Gasket - L 31122-14010 $4.78
Flywheel Inspection Cover Gasket - R 31124-14010 $4.78
Flywheel Inspection Cover Bolts - L 90080-11228 $1.66 (qty. 2)
Flywheel Inspection Cover Bolts - R 91661-40814 $2.46 (qty. 2)
Bellhousing bolts 91611-61045 $11.07 (qty. 9)
Transmission Shift Fork 31204-14031 $55.72
Transmission Shift Fork Hook ??? ???
Lexus 1992 SC300 Shifter 33530-24040 $136.04
Supra mkIII Slave Cylinder 31470-14050 $51.71
Rear Tailshaft Oil Seal 90311-40001 $9.54
CLUTCH STUFF
1JZ-GTE Flywheel 13405-46030 $248.91
Flywheel Bolts 90910-02103 $52.56 (qty. 8)
Clutch-to-Flywheel Bolts ??? ??? (qty. 6)
Clutch Hub Release Bearing 90363-45012 $26.81
Throw Out (Pilot Bearing) 90363-12002-77 $5.42
BIG Bearing ??? ???
Snap Ring 96152-00450 $2.15
Plate Washer 90201-71001 $1.24
Wave Washer 90206-72001 $1.01
Shaft Snap Ring 90520-67001 $2.75
Washer 90201-45023 $1.96
Clutch Spring Pin 31264-14040 $14.09
LABOR
(this is an estimate. obviously you may just do this yourself. or have a buddy do it. or have a shop quote you something less. this is totally up to you.)
Labor $1,500.00
GRAND TOTAL: ABOUT $5,950. I personally did it for about $4,500 including EVERYTHING. Depending on which R154 you choose, what clutch setup you go with, whether you go with all new parts or (somehow) find used parts, and what you get charged for install, these numbers can VASTLY vary.
We hold absolutely no responsibility if you buy parts that you didn't end up needing or if you mess something up following our guidelines. This is basically just a compilation of all the info we ended up gathering over the past few months either from past members who did similar swaps or from personal research.
WIRING
this is for '01's. I'm almost certain that this is not the same for '02+ IS's (mainly since our '01 IS's draw a speed signal from the ABS, so nothing needed to be wired for that ).
There will be 3 plugs that you unplug from the auto tranny. One of them will have 9 wires coming out of it. THIS IS THE ONLY ONE YOU NEED TO MESS WITH. If I remember correctly, the wires come out of some little circles, some are smaller circles (yellow ones), some are larger circles(red ones).
:::For the starter, take the two wires coming out of the 2 larger red circles (its a solid black wire and a black/white wire), cut them and splice them TO EACH OTHER.
:::For the reverse lights to work, my tranny had two wires coming out of the side, a red one and a white one. on the SAME plug where you spliced the two black wired, there will be two red wires. splice these two red wires to the two wires coming out of the tranny (this may be different depending on which R154 you get and what condition its in. unfortunately i can only contribute how my specific wire setup was.)
*if for any reason your wires are different colors or your IS is a different year, all we did was hook up a multimeter to the battery and stuck the little probe into each hole until the reverse lights came on.
AND YES, WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN REVERSE, THE LITTLE "R" IN MY DASH LIGHTS UP ORANGE LIKE IT USED TO, WHICH IS SWEEEET!!