New 1jz swap thread b/c others are retired - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 05:23 PM
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I do plan on going this route but as of right now I don't have a time table on it. I need to check the inventory on what cars are available at my local pullapart. I like this idea cause if for some reason I need to go back to original it would just be unplug and not have to do any rewiring. I haven't even purchased my 1j yet cause I was in the process of collecting parts to swap to manual with the ar5 transmission.
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 11:16 AM
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6/16/2017
Just wanted to share what info i've gathered along the way while doing my swap. My car is an 02 with a manual transmission. My engine is a jzx110 or newer with the notched pan. Do maintenance while the engine is out. Do not toss out the 1jz harness until you are sure everything on your 2jz harness isn't broken and connects without slipping off. Swap over broken clips as needed and use wires to extend those on your 2jz. The reason being is that some are shielded and they are free. Also remove and swap over wire flex conduit as needed which is also free. Use non adhesive vinyl tape if you can get it.

6/30/2017
Still dont have an exhaust, ic piping, ems or maf on the car but decided to try and start it anyway. Started first crank so i guess the rumors are true.


REPLACED:
Rear main seal (same as 2jz)
Cam seals (1jz specific)
Front main seal (same as 2jz)
Tensioner arm (1jz specific)
Tensioner idler pulley. (tensioner pulley is the same but the idler arm is not, so swap pulley or order whole assembly)
Timing belt (1jz specific)
Coils (same as 2jz)
Coil connectors (same as 2jz) THESE WILL PROBABLY BREAK
Plug wires (same as 2jz)
Spark plugs use 6 or 7 heat range (same as 2jz)
Ct turbo drain gasket
Oil filter housing o-ring (same as 2jz)
AC o-rings (random pack from chinabay)
VVTI solenoid (same as 2jz)
VVTI solenoid filter (same as 2jz)

WIRING: Very easy and somehow still a pain in the ass.

Optionally you can remove all hard plastic sheathing.

Remove hard plastic wiring cover that goes over engine.
Cut plastic off of the part that sends the wires down between the manifold.(Allows it to be routed easier)

Extend the coolant temp sensor (2 wires). On my 1jz its on the passenger side and not eh driver side. Not sure if this applies to all 1jz engines.

Extend a shielded single wire sensor under the intake manifold, not sure what sensor that is.
Flip solenoid under intake manifold instead of cutting wire to it.

Route wires under throttle body. Everything should be tight but fit with a little wiggle room.

Relocate small grey box to cruise cable mount.

Relocate throttle body wires no. No need to cut anything

One solenoid will need to be moved from the 2jz to 1jz. My 1jz didn't have it and not sure if it would trip a check engine light.

Not sure if i have to extend the MAF wires yet as im planning on using the stock airbox.

All connectors on the 2jz harness will have a place if you move over the one solenoid which i haven't attached to any hoses.

The bypass valve wont be connected to anything and will need to be controlled.

ENGINE MOUNTS:

(You should NOT be able to reach the rear trans bolts from the top if mounted correctly.)

Remove oil filter housing from both engines.

Remove 1jz turbo elbow.

Remove the turbo drain/feed line from the 1jz to get to the remaining mount bolt.

Remove engine mounts from the 1jz using a flex extension no need to remove the turbo.

Remove engine mounts and brackets from the 2jz.

Swap 2jz mounts over to 1jz. If you dont it has been noted the engine will sit too far forward.

FUEL LINES:

MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET THE SOFT LINE OFF OF THE TUBE FIRST TO FOLLOW A, IF NOT PROCEED TO B. B is much better IMO
FEED Line (Not sure if every 1JZ swap needs the feed line)
AAAAAAAAAAAAA

M14 x 1.5 inverted flare to -6an adapter (for hardline adaptation).

M12 Banjo to -6an for a honda (get the thicker one). Russell 640913

Used 2 -6an hose ends Russell vapor lock. ( 1 straight , 1 45 degree).

Ordered 3 feet to connect the hose ends only needed a little under 2.

BBBBBBBBBBBB (If you failed to get it off or it stripped. )

Cut hardline right behind fitting using the correct pipe cutter

Use 5/16 (8mm) tube adapter to -6 fitting AT165056ERL (compression type good for 250 psi no need to flare, will be difficult to get on. Make sure you file edges that will be slightly mushroomed after cutting.)

M12 Banjo to -6an for a honda (get the thicker one). Russell 640913


RETURN Line
Used -6 return line (actual line size is a little smaller so i used 2 clamps)

Used 2 straight -6 pushlock fittings (Pushlock sucks to assemble so use Russell Vapor Lock instead)

Used 90 degree -6 bulkhead fitting and 2 plastic washers

Used sealant on both sides of bulkhead fitting.

Ran part of line for drain back to tank

Did NOT modify pump carrier any further.


DONT USE BS HOSE. MAKE SURE IT IS RATED TO 150PSI, FUEL SAFE, REINFORCED AND SHIELDED.

THROTTLE CABLE

The stock one is too short. Used a throttle cable from a 93 Camry 4 cylinder which is a bit too long but works fine and is half the price of a Supra tt cable. If i do any upgrades in the far future ill get the PHR throttle cable.



Will be edited more as time goes on.
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Last edited by Force/Area; 09-27-2017 at 11:55 AM.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-22-2017, 10:17 AM
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Thanks for the info. I have my 1j now and about to start ordering my maintenance parts here soon.
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-15-2017, 11:53 PM
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So I'm going to make an attempt here to revive this post - I am in the process of my swap right now - this exact post below may show up on other threads as i search for the answers, and hopefully help others on their quest.

04 is300 (5ps auto)-> putting in a 1jzgte -single turbo (stock) - keeping w55 tranny
Background:
Engine (2JZGE) died on me at 140K miles - screw it lets throw a 1JZGTE single turbo in the biatch and have some fun instead of being boring and putting a 2JZGE back in her.
- running as low on budget as possible (will upgrade various parts in very near future but just need the car running asap) - daily driver - extremely short time frame - started 11/7 needs to be completed no later than 11/30
- myself and a friend working out of his shop - working nights mainly as we have other jobs - all necessary tools (engine lift, jack, impact tools) but **no fab capabilities at all besides our 4.5" grinder**

I have pics of progress but my phone is being weird and I'm having trouble finding most of them - will post ASAP.
Bought:
1JZGTE VVTi and transmission to be safe - $1350 - JDM Engine world - shipping $231 - supposedly <50k miles (it actually does look like it tbh)
-i believe this is a JZX110 but idk for certain - its front sump, tranny lines up with w55 perfectly -
stock radiator >$60 eBay

Progress: keep in mind all these hours include other mundane tasks like moving heavy parts around the shop cleaning, labeling parts, organizing stuff, troubleshooting issues, etc
1.decided to use w55 instead of the 1j tranny 5 speed > 4 all day SO we had to separate the engine and tranny - 4 hours w/3ppl
2. pulled hangers and did exhaust removal prep 1 hr w/3 ppl
3. had to grind off the exhaust @ the downpipe- was so rusted to the cat section it was beyond use - 2.5 hours w/2 ppl
4. 2JZGE and tranny out of the car - 1.5 hours w/2 ppl
5. separated above and attached w55 to 1jzgte (perfect fit), parts list made (hoses mainly) for drop which we are doing tomorrow (11/17)- 3hrs w/2 ppl

Questions:
1.how do i tell if it is a jzx110 or a JZS171 - cant seem to find anywhere that has a clear answer on this
- need to know for this whole ECU thing
2. ECU's - we dont know jack about how this all works
- standalones (if i go that route)... where can i get one for around $400-600 that will work well and is able to be tuned by a shop
2.there are two hoses coming from the power steering pump - the one above looks to be a normal power steerling fluid hose, but the one below is more like an assembly and when we pulled it off oil came out, not power steering fluid - yes we are positive this is the power steering pump - just looking for general guidance on what to do with these

Recommendations or experiences with intercooler kits for this? my situation below:
- intercooler kit kit still not purchased - was going to buy the cxracing 2jzgte single front mount turbo intercooler kit, but cxracing is out of the intercooler for 6-8 weeks... but can send me the piping kit ASAP
1. think my best bet is to buy the Mishimotor universal zline intercooler - looks like it would fit perf under the front bumper (dims: 28x2.5x7.5; 2.5" in/outs) - get the cx racing piping and minor adjustment and i should be good = $637 all included w/2 day shipping
- cxracig says 3" piping but their in/out is also 2.5" so i don't see why that would be an issue to get the piping sizes matched up

'04 IS300 - 1JZGTE swap in progress
-> feel free to PM me if you have questions on the swap or any advice to give on the swap!
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-12-2018, 01:13 PM
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I just purchased my 1jz gte this past weekend. I’m currently lookin for the intercooler, oil cooler, etc. now my question is, i have a jzx110 ecu with no immobilizer. I wanna use my a650e trans, now is it possible to run it with the jzx110 only, or do i have to use a dual ecu setup to keep everything functioning like oem? I have an 01, and plan to use the same harness since i read it’s practically identical to the jzx110 harness.
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-17-2018, 10:36 PM
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im starting to do my research into doing a 1jz swap into my 02 is300 that is an auto...i know. but i want to swap everything over to make it a manual as well. hopefully this topic doesnt die because im still in the process of looking for articles on how to do this.
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelgarJCE10 View Post
I just purchased my 1jz gte this past weekend. Iím currently lookin for the intercooler, oil cooler, etc. now my question is, i have a jzx110 ecu with no immobilizer. I wanna use my a650e trans, now is it possible to run it with the jzx110 only, or do i have to use a dual ecu setup to keep everything functioning like oem? I have an 01, and plan to use the same harness since i read itís practically identical to the jzx110 harness.
I think the easier route would be to use your stock ecu and harness on the 1jzgte, and then use a piggback or standalone ecu. Read thru a couple of the other threads on the subject and should make sense.

02' MT w/MK3 Supra LSD and no sunroof
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-19-2018, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity View Post
I think the easier route would be to use your stock ecu and harness on the 1jzgte, and then use a piggback or standalone ecu. Read thru a couple of the other threads on the subject and should make sense.


Thatís is what i was looking at since one of my friends is a lexus tech. He told me that would be the best route as well. Iím looking into ems but canít decide which one i want. Iím between aem and greddy. Iíll be reading the ems threads. Thanks bro for the help, i highly appreciate it.
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-24-2018, 10:59 AM
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Has anyone ran the usdm ecu in parallel with the JDM ecu?
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jJun View Post
Has anyone ran the usdm ecu in parallel with the JDM ecu?
A couple people have and it is supposedly extremely easy to get a stock swap running like this. This is also my plan to get my JZX100 swap running with a jumper harness, the attachment has everything needed to get a parallel JZX100 ecu wired up for an 02-05.
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-27-2018, 01:53 PM
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Iím guessing that would work the same way as a jzs110 and 171
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-28-2018, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jJun View Post
Iím guessing that would work the same way as a jzs110 and 171
The concept should be the same with possible differences in the pinout on the 110/171 ECU
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 11:02 AM
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this thread has just saved me so many headaches i have been looking up swap info for weeks and i was only able to find stuff from early 2000s but this thread again has saved my life. now my question is i have a 2001 is300 and looking to throw a 1j in it and i dont know the motor mount situation for the swap will the is ones work or do i need to new ones.
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 11:06 AM
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You reuse your IS300 mounts and your oilpan.

02' MT w/MK3 Supra LSD and no sunroof
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 11:22 AM
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thanks for the info man
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