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post #61 of 89 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 06:41 AM
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How's the build? With the proefi can you get obd functions to work?
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post #62 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Well I am bringing this thread back from the dead. Much like my car is being brought back from the dead. To make a very long story short my car and motor went missing. After getting a lawyer and the law involved I was able to get the shell of my car back and then 3 month later the motor. I still do not have my transmission, turbo, driveshaft, or ECU. This whole situation has been piss poor. But I will not let that stop me from reaching my goal. So now I have decided to do everything myself. The engine was supposedly kept in this guys garage but it has rust on it. And the #3 spark plug was rusted so I decided to disassemble the motor to confirm the parts inside. Multiple issues were found from a broken bolt to hand tight head studs. So I took the block down to the crank. The attached pictures are what I found on the number 3 cylinder. Looks to me like water got in there and all of the assembly lube pooled on the piston. I also measured the ring gaps and they were all over the place. New rings should be arriving today. I will be completing the motor this week. I have confirmed that the valves in the head are not leaking. My plans moving forward are below:
t56 or CD009 swap
ID1050x injectors
Return fuel line
Fuel filter
GTX3076r Gen 2 turbo
Pro EFI
Fuel regulator
Oil Filter relocation kit
...
Let me know what you all think. I am open to suggestions on items based on experiences not hear say or opinions.
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03 IBP; Custom Audio/Video System; JIC TI Exhaust; Tein H Tech Springs, Tokico Shocks; 18" Axis Hiros, AAC Custom Headlights w/demon eyes, cleared fogs, soon to be added 200A alternator

Boost is on the way!
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post #63 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 11:58 AM
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First, I'm sorry to hear about all the troubles!! That's a huge bummer!

Could just be the lighting, but the cylinder wall in pic 1 looks to be in lousy condition. Looks like water sat in there for a long time and began to corrode the wall.

Pic 3, that shows all 6: The walls look super duper used and shiny for a freshly machined block...? Not at all what I normally see in a fresh engine.

Regarding your proposed parts:

The ID1050 injectors are $$$, but awesome. Hard to go wrong there.

Between CD009 and T56, I think the T56 is a no-brainer. There's a current thread going where I pontificate my opinions quite strongly: https://www.my.is/forums/f114/r154-c...d-help-607085/

ProEFI is a great system, no doubt. You've been out of the loop for awhile, but some folks are starting to use Link ECUs - and are able to fully replace the Toyota ECU while maintain the functionality it provides such as cruise control, instrument cluster, etc. Xcessive Manufacturing offers a plug and play unit, where the ecu literally replaces the OEM ecu in the OEM ecu box. Pretty cool. Pretty new system, but I've been reading good things. Might be worth a look.

Last edited by Hodgdon Extreme; 06-03-2019 at 12:03 PM.
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post #64 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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No rust on the cylinder walls. It is all goobed up lube. I cleaned it all up and unfortunately didn't take any additional pictures after I cleaned it. As for the shine on the walls it could be the lighting. I can see the honing pattern on the walls if that means anything...

03 IBP; Custom Audio/Video System; JIC TI Exhaust; Tein H Tech Springs, Tokico Shocks; 18" Axis Hiros, AAC Custom Headlights w/demon eyes, cleared fogs, soon to be added 200A alternator

Boost is on the way!
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post #65 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 01:09 PM
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I would run a de glazing hone through the bores to make sure the pattern is good. Glad to hear you have got most of your stuff back. Did someone get locked up or at least taxed with fines?

Careful & Consistent
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post #66 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phistration View Post
No rust on the cylinder walls. It is all goobed up lube. I cleaned it all up and unfortunately didn't take any additional pictures after I cleaned it. As for the shine on the walls it could be the lighting. I can see the honing pattern on the walls if that means anything...
These marks are just assembly lube? They all wiped off, leaving a sweet, freshly honed surface finish?

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post #67 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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So I just did a de-glazing hone on the cylinders and they do look better. I have cleaned the cylinder walls up and will be putting the crank back in tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.

03 IBP; Custom Audio/Video System; JIC TI Exhaust; Tein H Tech Springs, Tokico Shocks; 18" Axis Hiros, AAC Custom Headlights w/demon eyes, cleared fogs, soon to be added 200A alternator

Boost is on the way!
phistration is online now  
post #68 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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So this is the result of tonight's work. Got the crank put back in. Took longer than I was hoping for but at least it is done right. Tomorrow will be grinding rings. I was planning on going to the larger side of the gte spec. Any suggestions?
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03 IBP; Custom Audio/Video System; JIC TI Exhaust; Tein H Tech Springs, Tokico Shocks; 18" Axis Hiros, AAC Custom Headlights w/demon eyes, cleared fogs, soon to be added 200A alternator

Boost is on the way!
phistration is online now  
post #69 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 09:47 PM
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Considering I don't see ARP bottom end bolts, I'm assuming you're not after that mystical 2J "1000hp" target...

As such, I see no reason to aim for the high side of the ring end gap specification. I would recommend .016-.017 (inches) for the top rings, and .018-.019 for the bottom. Whatever you choose for the tops, the bottoms need to be a minimum of .0015" bigger. If it were mine, I'd be going for .016" top and .018" bottom.

I don't know that it truly hurts anything, but I HATE HATE HATE seeing the vertical score marks in freshly honed cylinders on account of grinding burs left on the ring ends after filing.

I recommend you VERY carefully debur every edge of both ends of the ring EVERY time you go for a test fit. I use popsicle sticks with a strip of sandpaper super glued to it. It's frickin tedius as shit, but like I said - I just hate those vertical scratches!
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post #70 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Duly Noted. I was planning on doing that. I am looking for a daily driving target of around 500hp with a hope of something higher on e85 just for fun. I am planning on running a grx3076r gen2 because daily driving performance is more important to me. I am planning on running ID1065x injectors. I haven't decided what fuel pump to run yet. If there are any suggestions for reaching my performance goals I am all ears. My big unknown right now is what engine management to go with. I was planning Pro EFI but am back on the fence again. Listening contently.

03 IBP; Custom Audio/Video System; JIC TI Exhaust; Tein H Tech Springs, Tokico Shocks; 18" Axis Hiros, AAC Custom Headlights w/demon eyes, cleared fogs, soon to be added 200A alternator

Boost is on the way!
phistration is online now  
post #71 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 10:31 AM
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Well, you have some great ideas and sound like you know what you want. I say you can’t go wrong with ProEfi or any of the modern Standalones (Infinity, Haltech, ECU Master). If you are using E85, make sure to get PTFE line and fittings, it will eat rubber lines. 500hp DD shouldn’t be an issue.
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post #72 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 10:39 AM
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I have an old Master Power 72 on my car, and have been considering a turbo upgrade. Traditionally, I'm a Garrett guy - but the Borg Warner EFRs are very, very hard to ignore. I suggest you take a look at them, yourself. A call to PowerHouse or Full Race is probably in order - they have more expertise than me in terms of matching you up with the correct sized turbo, but I'd think the 7670 would be extremely responsive, with about the right amount of headroom for you to achieve what you're talking about.

ID1050 injectors will handle ~600whp on E85...and that's pushing them up to 90% or more duty cycle. They'll do it, but you might want a bit more headroom than that.

Who's going to be tuning your car? I ask, because most all of the current ecu systems on the market are quite good, and easily capable of making your 2J run well. Thus, it's not about picking "the best" ecu, but rather, picking the one your tuner is most comfortable with. A Megasquirt 3 is super capable, but if your guy isn't familiar with it - he'll either refuse to tune it, or you'll be paying him for a lot of hours of "getting up to speed", or perhaps he'll simply do shoddy work and you'll get a car that doesn't run great (or worse).

My advice is to pick a tuner, and get the ecu he suggests.

If it's gonna be you doing the tuning and you don't already know which ecu you prefer - then you've got lots and lots of due diligence to do. Downloading user manuals, downloading software, reading manuals, navigating software, browsing forums, etc etc etc.

Did you take a look at the Link plug and play kit that Xcessive motorsports offers?
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post #73 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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When I run the numbers on injector dynamics web site it says that the 1050x will be at closer to 80%. What numbers did you use? I will look into the BW turbos. Are those internally gated? I think I looked at them a few years ago. As for the tuners that is why I am now opening my options because my previous plan/Tuner is no longer valid. If anyone has any suggestions for good tuners in or around MI let me know. I did see the link ECU but know nothing about it at all.

03 IBP; Custom Audio/Video System; JIC TI Exhaust; Tein H Tech Springs, Tokico Shocks; 18" Axis Hiros, AAC Custom Headlights w/demon eyes, cleared fogs, soon to be added 200A alternator

Boost is on the way!
phistration is online now  
post #74 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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On a side note...I need an engine wiring harness because the guy ran off with mine. Does anyone know what the actual differences are between the automatic and manual engine wire harnesses? They have different part numbers. BTW my car is an original manual.

03 IBP; Custom Audio/Video System; JIC TI Exhaust; Tein H Tech Springs, Tokico Shocks; 18" Axis Hiros, AAC Custom Headlights w/demon eyes, cleared fogs, soon to be added 200A alternator

Boost is on the way!
phistration is online now  
post #75 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 12:01 PM
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I don't care for Injector Dynamics' calculator. It assumes both a BSFC and a power based on AFR and boost. How do you know what power level you'll be at with a given boost pressure? I know they say their's is better, but I don't like it.

I used Fuel Injector Clinic's calculator. Like I said, the ID1050s will do it, but 600whp on (true 85%) E85 is going to be pushing them towards their top end. Based on the moderate price increase to get the 1300s, that's what I'd do - but the 1050s will do it.

The EFRs are available with both internal and external gates. Back in the day, we all said internal gates sucked. And they did. However, they don't necessarily suck anymore. The EFR internal gates are quite excellent, but if you prefer divorced - that's available too.

What Link has going for it, right now are two key aspects:

A smart dude has reverse engineered the CANBUS messages required to run the AC, instrument cluster and cruise control so that you can maintain that functionality WITHOUT the oem toyota ecu in place. That CANBUS programming is (currently) only available with Link. Most of the new ECUs can do CANBUS, but it's not easy to reverse engineer what the message formatting is.

Secondly, they offer a patch harness that makes the unit plug and play. You unplug the toyota ecu, plug the engine harness into the patch harness, plug the patch harness into the Link ecu, stick the Link ecu into the box where the toyota ecu used to live, and put the lid back in the box. You now have a full-featured, fully programmable standalone, without the loss of AC, instrument cluster, or cruise. Pretty nice.

I've not used this, however I've used other Link products in the past. They are squared away, quality products. I'd have pulled the trigger on one of these for my car, except my original engine harness has been chopped into, plus it's kinda old and crappy. So I'd prefer to make a new harness, skip the patch harness, and locate the ecu inside the car.
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