Comprehensive AR5 Swap Thread - Page 4 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #46 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 12:24 AM
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i posted this in the other thread, hopefully i can get some answers here.

i really need help trying to find out what this vibration issue could be.

- it started happening right after the swap
- it happens at 65mph
- it can't be the driveshaft, it's the proper length and it's balanced
- it starts slowly, then abruptly stops at over 75mph
- differential vibrates a lot while it happens

what could it be? how can i diagnose what it could be?

we tried jacking up the transmission mount (currans) and it still happens regardless of how high it is.
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post #47 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Can you please give all the details and maybe photos of your drive shaft you used.

The drive line angle is less than 1 degree so the mount or operating angle will not be your problem.

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post #48 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curran View Post
Can you please give all the details and maybe photos of your drive shaft you used.

The drive line angle is less than 1 degree so the mount or operating angle will not be your problem.
How can I check for the drive line angles? I'll post pics of my driveshaft when I get back in town. What details do you need? My driveshaft is a single piece telescoping driveshaft, connected to the drift motion adapter. It's entirely custom
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post #49 of 141 (permalink) Old 06-21-2016, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by choro-q View Post
How can I check for the drive line angles? I'll post pics of my driveshaft when I get back in town. What details do you need? My driveshaft is a single piece telescoping driveshaft, connected to the drift motion adapter. It's entirely custom
Go buy digital angle finder from auto parts store or home improvement store.

Remove driveshaft.

Put angle finder flat against transmission output flange (or drift motion adapter) and see degree.

Put angle finder flat against differential input flange and see degree.

Raise/lower diff/transmission to make degrees the exact same or close as possible.

There are a ton of youtube videos and forum post on it, good luck.
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post #50 of 141 (permalink) Old 08-31-2016, 05:50 PM
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hey guys, doing this swap in my 1jz swapped 67 mustang. loads of info that ive been lurking about to plan my swap.
i'm using option A, with the GM hydraulic TOB. anyone use the solstice slave or the colorado slave? i had a hard time getting the trans to come together, had about a quarter inch of clearance between the bell housing and the motor. im using a w58 pressure plate with the drift motion ar5 swap clutch disc, talked to aaron. good guy. i noticed someone else in another forum mentioned using the colorado slave, and maybe shimming it to get it to fit. anyone have experience with this? the colorado slave cylinder is cheaper too, plus it has a bleeder screw. something to look into.
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post #51 of 141 (permalink) Old 08-31-2016, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
the colorado slave cylinder is cheaper too, plus it has a bleeder screw. something to look into.
I'm using a T56 TOB but my setup is unique and won't match yours. This sizing has to be exactly right. If your TOB is too long (which yours kinda sounds like). It might press on the PP even with no hydraulic pressure.

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i had a hard time getting the trans to come together, had about a quarter inch of clearance between the bell housing and the motor.
I'm really not sure how you'd measure it. I imagine the guy who made my kit used a cut-away bell housing so he could see engagement
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post #52 of 141 (permalink) Old 09-02-2016, 12:55 AM
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luckily im using the oem toyota r154 to 1jz bell housing, so it has 2 huge cutouts in either side that i can actually fit my entire hand inside and grab all 5 fingers around the input shaft. ill be able to easilly get a measuring tool in there, if only i can find one small enough. my calipers are too long. i feel like i read somewhere that someone had to modify the solstice slave to work, ill look for that link to corroborate.
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post #53 of 141 (permalink) Old 09-21-2016, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Im going to start another Ar5 swap soon for my other sportcross. If anyone has specific questions about the swap that they are still unsure of, ask now and i will be sure to get some detailed pictures or any other information.

13 J8A FR-S Series 10
02 CW Sportcross rebuild in progress
02 BO Sportcross 2jzgte build in progress
11 SW Tundra DC TRD supercharged

02 MSM L-tuned Sportcross 5 Speed Sold
01 DWP IS300 Sold

Sportcross owners group on facebook

My Story: https://my.is/forums/f219/sportcross-...8/#post7991882


My For Sale: https://my.is/forums/f99/sportcross-s...hifter-438917/
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post #54 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 12:42 AM
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sorry to necro this thread, but ever since i've done the swap i've been having a bad vibration issue.

well, whenever i shake my driveshaft, i can kind of see the output assembly move (the entire thing that the driftmotion adapter mounts up to, dunno what it's called) and i think that's the issue.

how much movement there is normal? none? a little? and is fixing it as simple as tightening a bolt there? or do i have to take out the trans and tear it apart to replace a worn bearing or seal of some sorts?
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post #55 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 02:01 PM
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The disk that bolts to the tail of the transmission should be bolted down tight and shouldn't move at all. If you're talking about the output shaft itself, that might indicate the tailshaft bushing is worn out.

I had a vibration > 80 MPH and getting the new driveshaft re-balanced pretty much fixed it.

What kind of mount setup are you using on the rear of the transmission?
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post #56 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 03:14 PM
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I'm using OEM mounts and bushings, as well with Curran's cross member.

My drive shaft is balanced, at least they told me.

Do you know how involved replacing the bushing is?
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post #57 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 07:07 PM
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My output shaft bolt is not tight, I don't know what to torque it down to but hopefully that's the source of my vibration issue.
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post #58 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 07:54 PM
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yep, it was my output shaft bolt. no more vibration.
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post #59 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 02:20 PM
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Can i still use my factory 5spd master cylinder and clutch lines?

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post #60 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 09:58 AM
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^if doin with all the r154 parts you can. only change i had to make was bending the small section of tubing at slave cylinder
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