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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-21-2002, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Useful Audio Posts (All Links Working Now)

If any of this information proves useful to you, please take a moment and Rep those who took the time to share this.

The very first and most important thing to remember in this section is that your question most likely is NOT original. Most everything has been discussed to some dgree at some point in time. Please read through the information located in this thread and if your question is not covered then please use the search button located at the upper right of the screen. Try different search phrases and you will most likely find the answers that you are looking for. It may take you a little more time to find, but at least you are learning how to use search. It beats waiting for someone to answer you and you get the self satisfaction of finding it on your own. If you feel that you have a topic that should be added to this sticky then please PM one of Moderators so we can add it with a correct answer so those who view are not mislead.



"OMG...everything is so confusing! I wish there was a flow chart to help me make decisions!"
Your lucky day----->Newbie Audio Upgrade Diagram - MUST READ FIRST


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _

Information Section: This is the place to read up and learn something.

Taking Stuff Apart
Dash Disassembly Steps
How to remove Rear Seats
Getting to the Rear Speakers
Getting to the Front Speakers
How to remove stock headunit, unjam CDs

Rear Speakers...the Saga
Why the stock rear speakers won't work with an aftermarket headunit.

Navigation and Screens
Stock Nav screen size = 7"
Adding Navigation - Options
Stock Navigation needs 1 PCB from stock headunit to function with aftermarket headunit
Factory Navigation; How to install aftermarket screen into OEM Nav housing
Pioneer AVIC-D1 review / issues

__________________________________________________ ________________________________________________

DIY Section: This stuff will help you get the job done yourself.

Car Audio and IS300 Mods: The Necessities
Car Audio Basics
Entire Audio System Overhaul DIY w/ step step instructions
Selecting proper wire gauge
JDM Dash Kit without heated seat / trac buttons relocation
Detailed Radar detector installation instructions
Weak spot in stock security system; How to improve it
How-To: Keep 45 Sec Moonroof and Driver Window open/close delay if any door is opened
The "Speakers that Fit" thread.


Stereo Wiring and Amps
Partial DIY of Metra Harness and New headunit install
Wiring Diagrams(see post #29 for updated links)
How to install an amp for the two front channels and how to deal with the NAV relay; Radio Diagram Pictures
Factory Pre-Outs
Thumping sound from amps; ground loop isolator
Bypassing the stock amp wiring guide - DIY
Adding a sub and keeping the stock headunit
>>>Updated link for adding preouts to stock headunit>> https://my.is/forums/f103/because-oth...failed-384968/


More on wiring diagrams > > >
https://my.is/forums/f90/new-01-05-di...-dowoad-435090


Use attached diagram for keyless entry with after market security/ remote start units.
\/ \/ \/ \/
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Lexus locks.pdf (68.1 KB, 3285 views)
File Type: pdf DEI lexus lock.pdf (38.7 KB, 7415 views)

Last edited by jasonm4; 09-18-2014 at 04:23 AM. Reason: updated links
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-06-2002, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Add factory Pre-outs to the factory amp.
http://homepage.mac.com/vinnii/TOYS/PhotoAlbum19.html

Last edited by ItalynStylion; 01-22-2010 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Working Link
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-06-2002, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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This info is now available at https://www.is300.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=63

Last edited by lisnup65; 10-01-2004 at 06:47 AM.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-23-2002, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_Klim
How do you remove the rear seat bottom and back?
The lower part, you just grab the front side 1/4 the way in from the edge and lift. It pops out of a plastic holder. Duplicate on other side. The rear is held in by 4-10mm bolts. Also use a 14mm and undo 3 of the 4 seat belt bolts. You will see which 3. Then lift up and out. You must lift kinda high and it will come right out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalynStylion
Rear Seat Bottom- The bottom pad must come out first before the seat back. The pad comes out by grasping under the pad closest to where it is attached on either side (pictured below) and pulling up. The pad snaps in and is difficult to pop out, this will take some force.


Rear Seat Back- Remove the headrests. Once the rear seat bottom is out the bolts that hold in the seat back are exposed and accessible, remove all four bolts. Then grab the seat back and slide it up against the metal backing to get it out of where it slides in and is secured at the top. Add it to the pile of car parts you are making.

Last edited by ItalynStylion; 03-03-2009 at 08:02 PM. Reason: Adding information
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-27-2002, 08:13 AM
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Getting to the rear speakers:

Remove the the back seat and the rear deck lid. The rear grilles are attached to the rear lid so it has to come out.

Rear Seat Bottom:
You would have to first remove the bottom portion of the rear seat. It is simply held in by two pop-in retainer clips; one on either side. Lift up on each corner of the bottom seat until it pops out of its retainer clips.

Rear Seat Back:
Once the bottom of the rear seat is out the the C-pillars are next. There are 5 clips for each, three along the edge towards the front of the car, and two in the middle. Just use a panel removal tool or butter knife or something to pop them out. Once the clips are popped out, the covers slide forward and out. Once you've taken the C-pillars out the rear seat back is next. It's easy to unbolt but hard to get out. Unbolt the four bolts located on the bottom of the seat holding it in place. Some people unbolt the seatbelt clips. I did not. The seat is held in place by clips on the top of the seat that slide in to place downward when putting the seat back on which means to get it off, you need to lift, rather hard I must say, to raise these clips up and over their retainers. You can remove the headrests if you think it'll make matters easier.

Rear Deck Lid:
The deck is a pain in the ass to both remove and reinstall. It is held in place by two different means. First remove the covers to the three tiedowns on the deck lid and unbolt them. This might also be a good time to make sure the seat belts are out of the lid fabric and hanging below it. Second, and this is the pain, you need to unclip the sides of the deck lid. The lid has four slots, two on each side. Into these slots slide plastic tabs that are connected to the car on each side. I removed the tabs a pretty dirty way, I used a screwdriver to weasel my way under them and pull the lid out. It took a little while but I got them out. The deck lid now just slides out once you unplug the brake light.

Good Luck.

Last edited by ItalynStylion; 01-22-2010 at 10:18 AM. Reason: Added some info to a great post
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-27-2002, 08:43 AM
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Getting to the Front Speakers: (by TeCKis300, lisnup65, and DHCrocks)

TeCKis300:First thing to do is to take off the door panel. There are two screws on each door that need to be removed: one at the bottom of the arm rest pull handle, and another behind a small cover in the door pull release handle. There are then 8 plastic snaps along the bottom and sides of the panel. Take a butter knife and cover it with a piece of cloth (to avoid scratches) and wedge it along the edge. Pull the edges straight away from the door. Once you get them all off, remove the trim piece around the door release handle. This is done by wedging a flat screwdriver and pushing the trim up to release a tab. There is another at the bottom edge also. Once the tabs are off, you should be able to slide the trim off towards the open edge of the door while pulling the door handle. That's it. The door panel should come off by pulling it away from the door gently while sliding it upwards. Don't pull it completely off because you have to unplug the wires for the power window, locks, and courtesy light.

Now to remove the stock speaker.

Unplug the wire.

Get a drill and drill out the 3 rivets in the door. After the rivet head comes off (including the plastic piece behind it), you should be able to pry out the speaker. The rivets themselves will still take a bit of effort to drill out. Some will pull out and some will be pain...just keep going at it...it'll come out.

You can choose to make a speaker mount/baffle from 3/4" MDF
-OR-
You can use the stock speaker riser mount which is an integral part of the speaker basket. This part really sucks because you'll have to totally destroy your stock speaker to recover the baffle/mount. That's unless you choose to make one, which is recommended. If you have the time, 3/4" MDF would work nicely.

Get a utility knife and cut out the foam speaker cone surround. Then turn the speaker over, get some cutting pliers and cut each basket post. Also, cut the wire lead that goes to the socket. Then the two pieces should separate and now you have a mount/baffle.

Once that's done, you can pull out the white wire socket with pliers. Next, you'll need to pull off the foam surround. This is necessary because if you just mount the speaker on there, it will be too tall and hit the door panel/grill. Slowly go around the whole thing with pliers and pull it off. Once you have that off, you can mount your new speaker directly to it with some screws. It should screw in there nicely without even drilling any holes. My Infinity Perfect speakers had a 2 3/4" mounting depth and they fit fine. There was a tad more clearance in the rear so you may even be able to get away with 3" speakers.

lisnup65: Actually the depth is dependant on the speakers that you choose. To properly get the mounting as it was factory (Flush against the door panel), you need to use a 3/4" piece and a 3/8" piece coupled together to give you the same build up that the factory speaker gave.

TeCKis300:Note about the crossover. The crossover that came with my set was relatively large. A good place to locate this is in the door panel itself. If you look at the backside of the panel...there will be a large foam piece. Rip that out and locate the crossover there. I chose to use Velcro to attach it to the door panel. It fits snugly there once the panel is put back.

DHCrocks:To affix the speaker to the door, you can use a threaded insert. Basically all you do is drill a hole into sheetmetal and insert the fitting. What it does is provide a threaded sleeve so that you can attach machine screws to. They come in standard sizes like 10-24 or 10-32. The first number is the stud size and the second is the thread pitch (ie: 24 threads per inch). it is a fast way to make a removeable mount in sheetmetal, which is fairly thin and usually strips fairly easily if you try to use a screw tapped directly into the metal and torqe it down too much. It is good to use in blind locations where you can not get to the back to hold a nut. You can get it at places like HomeDepot in the hardware section.

Pictures and other details here.
https://my.is/forums/f103/front-speak.../?postcount=26

Last edited by ItalynStylion; 03-03-2009 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Adding information
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 10-06-2002, 10:02 PM
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Dash disassembly

Some dash disassembly pictures

http://www.is300.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13319851
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 11-08-2002, 09:47 PM
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How to install an amp for the two front channels and how to deal with the NAV relay.

my.IS - Lexus IS Forum - Head to Amp connections

Also, correction on how my sub is hooked up. You cannot use the front channels to supply the signal for the sub as it is high passed in the stock amp. You need another LLC to tap off the rear 6x9 channels for the sub input.
(More stuff on how to install a sub with the stock headunit --->https://my.is/forums/f103/stock-headu...nstall-371088/)

Wiring diagrams:

http://www.teckkits.com/IS300/Audio/WiringChart.jpg
http://www.teckkits.com/IS300/Audio/radio1.jpg
http://www.teckkits.com/IS300/Audio/radio2.jpg

Car sold to a good new home!

Full Aristo 2JZ-GTE BPU++ - Getrag v161 - EMU - Brembo BBK - CCW Classics 9F/10.5R - 255/35F - 285/30R - AAR Arms - GReddy Type-S - Hotchkis Sways - Teck Kit - Prolex / Cusco STB - Full ICE - HKS Drager - Prosport Prem Boost/EGT/FP - Innovative LC-1/XD-16 - Goodridge SS - TRD F/R Underbrace - Greddy Profec B Spec II - Megan Toe Arms

Last edited by ItalynStylion; 05-17-2009 at 10:02 AM.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2002, 12:02 AM
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Stock NAV screen is 7"

Car sold to a good new home!

Full Aristo 2JZ-GTE BPU++ - Getrag v161 - EMU - Brembo BBK - CCW Classics 9F/10.5R - 255/35F - 285/30R - AAR Arms - GReddy Type-S - Hotchkis Sways - Teck Kit - Prolex / Cusco STB - Full ICE - HKS Drager - Prosport Prem Boost/EGT/FP - Innovative LC-1/XD-16 - Goodridge SS - TRD F/R Underbrace - Greddy Profec B Spec II - Megan Toe Arms
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-17-2002, 07:47 PM
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This is a post from another thread that I thought should be here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by lisnup65
I jus did an install in a '02 IS300 without Nav. I put in an Alpine indash screen/tuner along with a DVD changer. The customer only added a sub amp and enclosure, the remaining speakers were the fcatory setup. His alpine is powering the front doors and the rear high freq speakers. He opted to leave the 6*9's out. I crossed over the the rears at 1000 hertz as they are only 2" paper cones, and the front at 90 hertz. The sub is running 90hertz and down. The customer is all upset because a moderate volumes the fcatory speakers start to distort something terrible. They are very cheap and the Alpine power actually is greater than that of the factory amp, thus the problems with power handling and distortion. I post this for those of you that are looking at doing this setup. I just want to prewarn that disappointment may occur.
Cliffs Notes: It will sound like crap and you'll eventually blow that shit up.

Last edited by ItalynStylion; 03-03-2009 at 08:21 PM. Reason: Summarizing
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-01-2003, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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ADD FACTORY PRE-AMP INPUT FOR USE WITH AFTERMARKET SOUND EQUIPMENT.

http://www.is300.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13343124

"Man is a rational animal who always loses his temper when called upon to act in accordance with the dictates of reason."
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-27-2003, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear 6X9 woofers are not getting any signal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmonk
I recently hooked up an amp and Enclosure off of the leads in the trunk that are connencted to the 6X9s. They worked for a brief period then quit. Now I am only getting signal to the stacked tweeters, and no signal from t he leads I had been using. What ccould have happened here. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!
It sounds like the channel in the amp that provides the 6*9 signal is out or damaged. This can happen if you use a cheap LLC that adds resistance to the line. I only recommend Pac and Sound Gate LLC's as they do NOT add any load to the line.

"Man is a rational animal who always loses his temper when called upon to act in accordance with the dictates of reason."
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-09-2004, 03:19 PM
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i know this is a late post, but i figured it might help you people out. for all of you installing an amp or getting a thumping sound from the subs even when its off, its more thank likey a bad connecting somewhere, i have gotting it in the past. i simply installed a rca ground insulator from radioshack. it actually worked great. and its only like 20 or 30 bucks. so if you getting any noise like that, try it, if it doesnt work just bring it back......pm me if you decide to try it
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-19-2004, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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I will cover the 6*9 problems once again.

The rear 6*9's in the IS300 prove as a problem point for installing an aftermarket deck. The reasons behind this are simple, and I hope this helps those who need it.

The 6*9's are not a conventional 2 way speaker. The woofer and tweeter are 2 sperate units. The woofer is a 2 ohm speaker that is powered from the factory amp through a cross-over. The reason behind the 2 ohm configuration is that it will receive around 2x the power as the other speakers in the car. The channels that drive the woofer also drive the mid/tweeter through its own internal(in the amp) cross-over.

When changing the speakers if you do not get the same type of 2/4 ohm configuration, you will lose response as the power of the stock amp is pathethic.

If you hook up a new deck to the 6*9's the problems are exactly as ststed. Your new deck does not have the built in x-overs to properly power the speakers and 95% of the time, your new deck is NOT designed to run a 2 ohm load. So if you have 2 channels for rear sound from the deck, how can you run them to the 4 channels of the 6*9's?????
It is possible, but you must create a hand built cross-over network. The lowpass filter needs to be designed for 2 ohms and the high-pass needs to be designed for 4 ohms. The problem is that it will cost you almost as much to create the network as it would to replace the speakers with real ones.
Again you must deal with the fact that your new deck is rated for a 4 ohm load and not a 2 ohm load. You may be able to hook up and run at 2 ohms, but the life of the cheap output chip in the deck will live a shortened life.

Now if you do hook up the 6*9's as many claim they are doing. The sound is horrible!!!!
Without the x-over network, if you connect the 2 and 4 ohm speakers to the same channel, the new deck would see a 1.33 ohm load which is a BIG no no. If you series the connection it would be 6 ohms which the stock deck would work fine with, but you still have the issues of sound. The woofer would receive all freq which makes it sound like ass, and the mid/tweeter would also receive all freqs which leaves it open to blow as it is not physically possible for it to produce a 90hz tone without damage.



To sum this up.

Change the speakers as the sound and problems the factory speakers create is not worth the $100.00 and up you would spend on new ones.

For those who want to make the x-over and use the factory speakers I highly recommend a 12DB x-over on the tweeters and woofer. The woofer would also work with the cheaper 6db x-over.

For the rear mid, I recommend to cross-over at around 1K HZ.

You will need 2 each of the following to create a 12DB 900 MHZ high-pass x-over.

Coil = 1.00 millihenries
Cap = 31.25 Microfarads

The cap goes in the positive line, the coil goes between the positive and negative speaker lead after the cap!

For the woofers, a 250HZ 12 DB filter will require 2 of the following:

1.8 milliheneries coil
225 microfarad capacitor

The coil goes in the + line with the cap wired in series(connect to both + and - speaker leads) after the coil.


This will allow just mid-bass and bass to reach the 6*9's and you headunit will see a 2 ohm load. The mids are protected from lower octave that will destro the delicate paper cone and the headunit will see these freqs at 4 ohms.


You can do as above, but with a 6DB on the woofer. Use a 1.28 coil in the + lead to each woofer.

See how it is easier to just replace the cheapo factory stuff!

"Man is a rational animal who always loses his temper when called upon to act in accordance with the dictates of reason."

Last edited by lisnup65; 09-13-2005 at 01:09 PM.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 09-24-2004, 08:01 AM
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It seems that links in the wiring diagrams thread link I always post are no longer working.

I went ahead and uploaded 2001 and 2002+ WIRING DIAGRAMS to my hosting service. I'm not sure how long I will keep them there. The hosting service is set to expire in a few months.

[update]
Old hosting exired. Updated with new hosting links.

Right click, save as:
2001
2002

<-- Make sure to Click on under my name and give some rep.

SOLD: '03 GGP Manual IS300 97K Miles
- SRT HFI, B&M Shifter, Colgan Mask, Alpine F340 Amp, Infinity Kappa Speakers, 2-Din MP3 Player
- CompuStar 2W900FM-AS Alarm/Remote Start, Optima Red Top battery, White LED Interior
- Koni Yellow Adjustable, Eibach Pro Springs

'13 NGP RX450h
'16 MBM Audi S4 Manual

Last edited by vlad_a; 01-13-2005 at 12:20 PM.
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