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Comprehensive AR5 Swap Thread

182K views 185 replies 43 participants last post by  73luxury 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
The purpose of this thread will answer all your questions about an AR5 swap into an IS300. I will cover part lists, Questions and answers, and at the end, an Installation. There are many options and variables to doing a transmission change on an IS300. We will start with the bare-bones parts list, and these will be the basic must-have for doing the swap.



NOTE, this part list may contain parts you already have, i.e., transmission bracket, isolator, bolts, etc. You will need to look at what came with your donor AR5 transmission and use some common sense to order what you need.

The highlighted gaskets I could not find them, but they are part of the original installation for the inspection plates, so I left the part numbers in the list

Now that you have the basic must have a list, now you have some choices to make. The AR5 and the R154 engage the clutch very. Differently, you need to choose which system you are going to use because it will directly affect which clutch you will need to buy.

Option A. The AR5 comes with a bearing retainer that uses a bolt-on internal slave that engages the clutch by pushing on it. This is an all in one system, but it may require the swap to a larger bore clutch master cylinder, similar to the size used on the solstice "3/4". If you choose this option, you can use the W series clutch components; this list is for you.


Option B. The R154 comes with a bearing retainer that uses an external slave and pulls a fork to engage the clutch by pulling on it. This system has many parts, but it may be the most familiar. If you choose this option, you can use R series Clutch components, and this list is for you.



But wait, that's not all. Then there is the aftermarket, where choices are endless. I will cover 2 that seem to be the most popular.

Option C. Spec and clutch masters make a multiplate clutch system that both use an internal slave that is made for the r154 retainer. Spec is a complete kit. It comes with your clutch disc, flywheel, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder. Make sure to special order for a correct clutch disk.!!!! The Clutch masters kit comes with the same minus the clutch master cylinder. So this set will vary, but all require the R154 retainer. This is a light list since there are too many variables to make it complete.



Option D. OS Giken makes a movement alteration kit that is compatible with the r154 bearing retainer. This kit covers the r154 external slave movement into a push style. I would consider a middle ground between the above choices, you still have your external slave, but you do not have to buy a lot of small parts. This is a light list since there are too many variables to make it complete.



Now that we covered the part options, you should have a much clearer idea of your parts list.

Now let's cover some questions about the AR5.

Q. Do I need to buy a certain year AR5?
A. Yes! the 06 and older use a traditional bottom mount. 07 and newer use a side mount system that connects to the solstice differential. This would not be ideal for the IS300 and will require additional work.

Q. Do I need to trim the input shaft?
A. No, there is sufficient room to fit.

Q. Do I need a custom pilot bearing?
A. Yes, ID 15mm and OD 32mm Driftmotion sells one.

Q. Do I need to buy the shifter JZX shifter cover plate?
A. Yes! If you want to have your shifter line up correctly for the IS300 application

Q. Do I need to buy the JZX Shifter?
A. No, you can buy a JZX shifter “more straight” or a W55 shifter “slanted slightly towards the driver”. Or alternatively, use an aftermarket w55 shifter.

Q Do I need a “special” clutch disk for the AR5 Spline?
A. Yes R154 flywheel Clutch Disc Diameter (mm): 240 Input Shaft Size (In): 1-1/8 Inch Number Of Splines: 26.
W55/58 flywheel Clutch Disc Diameter (mm): 236 Input Shaft Size (In): 1-1/8 Inch Number Of Splines: 26.

Q. Do I need A custom crossmember?
A. Yes, for a no compromise solution, the custom cross member is the best option, you simply use the AR5 mount and isolator, and it is a direct bolt-in. It can be found on a popular auction site.

Q. I have an automatic transmission. What other parts do I need?
A. I have another thread that can help answer questions for auto to manual swap.
Auto to Manual Swap, Wiring, Ecu, CC, NSS, CLSW, Trac...

Q. I have a Manual transmission. What other parts do I need?
A. The main thing a manual car will need is to wire their speed from the abs instead of from the transmission. Here is a thread that can help you.
How-To: ABS to Speedo Rewire for V160 swapped IS's...

Q. Do I need a custom driveshaft?
A. Yes, AR5 does not use a slip yoke. It mates to a 100mm cv joint. Driftmotion and driveshaft shop both make adapters to convert to 4 bolt flange. You can modify your two-piece driveshaft or get a one-piece telescoping driveshaft. The transmission output flange to diff flange is 51,” but you should always measure yours to verify!

Q. Lots of parts seem to be discontinued. Where do I find them?
A. Amyama trading company is a good site to find parts, often times at a greatly reduced cost. Shipping can be a killer, so try to get it all in one order!

Installation

Here is an installation guide for my setup “option D” Many steps will be the same for all other options.


Remove AR5 bellhousing, slave cylinder, and shifter cover,


Install 2jz bellhousing, and jzx shifter cover



Install breather plug



Install R154 retianer seal



Clean up, and apply fipg






Install movement alteration kit




Install pilot Bearing, I got mine from driftmotion, but all you need is a pilot bearing with an ID 15mm and OD 32mm.





Good time to do your rear seal!


Install your flywheel and torque bolts to your hardware specs, i.e., the arp will be different than stock.



Insert alignment tool and install clutch disks and cover plate



Install transmission to the engine



Used some spare connectors for the reverse light.



Swap slave shaft for movement kit shaft




Install cover plates




Install slave



Trim AR5 Isolator bolts. Always have the bolt on before cutting,




Install AR5 Metal Mount, isolator, and crossmember.






Install Driveshaft, clutch slave line to master cylinder





Install shifter

 
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#46 ·
i posted this in the other thread, hopefully i can get some answers here.

i really need help trying to find out what this vibration issue could be.

- it started happening right after the swap
- it happens at 65mph
- it can't be the driveshaft, it's the proper length and it's balanced
- it starts slowly, then abruptly stops at over 75mph
- differential vibrates a lot while it happens

what could it be? how can i diagnose what it could be?

we tried jacking up the transmission mount (currans) and it still happens regardless of how high it is.
 
#47 ·
Can you please give all the details and maybe photos of your drive shaft you used.

The drive line angle is less than 1 degree so the mount or operating angle will not be your problem.
 
#50 ·
hey guys, doing this swap in my 1jz swapped 67 mustang. loads of info that ive been lurking about to plan my swap.
i'm using option A, with the GM hydraulic TOB. anyone use the solstice slave or the colorado slave? i had a hard time getting the trans to come together, had about a quarter inch of clearance between the bell housing and the motor. im using a w58 pressure plate with the drift motion ar5 swap clutch disc, talked to aaron. good guy. i noticed someone else in another forum mentioned using the colorado slave, and maybe shimming it to get it to fit. anyone have experience with this? the colorado slave cylinder is cheaper too, plus it has a bleeder screw. something to look into.
 
#51 ·
the colorado slave cylinder is cheaper too, plus it has a bleeder screw. something to look into.
I'm using a T56 TOB but my setup is unique and won't match yours. This sizing has to be exactly right. If your TOB is too long (which yours kinda sounds like). It might press on the PP even with no hydraulic pressure.

i had a hard time getting the trans to come together, had about a quarter inch of clearance between the bell housing and the motor.
I'm really not sure how you'd measure it. I imagine the guy who made my kit used a cut-away bell housing so he could see engagement
 
#52 ·
luckily im using the oem toyota r154 to 1jz bell housing, so it has 2 huge cutouts in either side that i can actually fit my entire hand inside and grab all 5 fingers around the input shaft. ill be able to easilly get a measuring tool in there, if only i can find one small enough. my calipers are too long. i feel like i read somewhere that someone had to modify the solstice slave to work, ill look for that link to corroborate.
 
#53 ·
Im going to start another Ar5 swap soon for my other sportcross. If anyone has specific questions about the swap that they are still unsure of, ask now and i will be sure to get some detailed pictures or any other information.
 
#54 ·
sorry to necro this thread, but ever since i've done the swap i've been having a bad vibration issue.

well, whenever i shake my driveshaft, i can kind of see the output assembly move (the entire thing that the driftmotion adapter mounts up to, dunno what it's called) and i think that's the issue.

how much movement there is normal? none? a little? and is fixing it as simple as tightening a bolt there? or do i have to take out the trans and tear it apart to replace a worn bearing or seal of some sorts?
 
#55 ·
The disk that bolts to the tail of the transmission should be bolted down tight and shouldn't move at all. If you're talking about the output shaft itself, that might indicate the tailshaft bushing is worn out.

I had a vibration > 80 MPH and getting the new driveshaft re-balanced pretty much fixed it.

What kind of mount setup are you using on the rear of the transmission?
 
#61 ·
Anyone blown up yet? My single disk 6 puck slips at 570tq. I want to get the spec twin and raise to the boost to 700tq. I'm wondering if the ar5 is gonna let go on a stock weight is300. Spec quoted $1350 with no master cylinder since their master cylinder is just a willwood 3/4" bore. I will just use the land cruiser 3/4 bore master cylinder listed in this thread since it definately fits our chassis.

Side note the ar5 is holding great. I beat on it everytime I drive it.
 
#69 ·
I read his thread. He had 2 trans related issues. One was all of the flywheel bolts backing out and messing up the clutch (fail). The other was that he didn't install dowel pins and possibly used the wrong gear oil which did actually tear up some internals on the trans. The trans was whining when he started and he believes the added flex from no dowel pins and poor choice of gear oil ultimately tore up the insides. Since then he got a new ar5 and runs up to 36 psi on a act clutch setup. I think I'm just going to turn it up and see what happens. If it breaks then I'll just get another and turn it back down cause it's definitely fun as it sits.
 
#73 ·
Any notes on what happened. From the sound of it maybe wear and tear slowly gapped the shafts and the clearances on the last pulls were just too far out. Have you changed the fluid in the last 5 years? Im at 26 psi 6266 (600whp) now and its still great. Im thinking that a fresh marlin crawler upgrade will do it some good.

Side note. I talked to spec yesterday. They are coming out with a PT trim (1100hp) twin disk. It will carry the name of something like PT-AR5(unofficial). I told them that people are using the setup from the r154 1jz and he sorta didnt believe me. He said that there are minor things like shims and a certain thickness flywheel that will make this kit exactly what it needs to be for ar5 to 2jz. It will have some oem corvette parts also. He said it would be ready in a few weeks as they are testing it now. This will be great if the ar5 keeps taking the beating.
 
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